Yeah man that was my plan, sounds like a win win. And also the heat stress is getting worse, could it be a ph problem or something, because the heat is fine. It sits at 23, I even moved the light back and it's continuing to get worse.If you want to do a proper ScroG where you tie the growing branches down to the screen then you veg longer to get the scrreen almost full before flipping then continue to tie the tips down until the stretch is over. Then you have a canopy that is only about 6 - 8" above the screen at the end when it's time to crop. Double your yield easily.
Switching to 1000w light
- Thread starter Zakfred
- Start date
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
With a temp of 23C you wouldn't think heat stress would show up but that's sure what it looks like. What is your humidity like? A really low RH causes it's own problems and that's what I've been dealing with for 20 years here up north.
I'm thinking it could be radiant energy from your LED light causing the leaf temp to get too high but moving the light back should show improvement if that were the case. When I'm playing around with setting up my HID light(s) I use an infrared laser thermometer to check the leaf temps. Much more accurate than the old back of the hand method.
I've never seen a pH problem cause leaf edge curl before. When pH gets too high it can lock out micro-nutrients and then you see shit happen to newer growth like twisting, yellowing etc. Almost all the micro-nutrients are immobile so the plant can't steal them from older leaves like it can with the mobile nutes that are N,P,K, Mg and Zn.
Riiight. Theyre gonna love it
now man now. They will love it, just make sure to have that airflow and cooling going. Might back the lights off the plants to about 42". I know it's out of recommended range, but intense light might shock em. Give em a few days to adjust then drop it like its hot
True, well thank you for the knowledge. I don't know if I want to invest in a infrared thermometer, at least not right now and it's not from humidity it stays around 60. Alright I'mma switch them over tonight. They'll have to deal with it.With a temp of 23C you wouldn't think heat stress would show up but that's sure what it looks like. What is your humidity like? A really low RH causes it's own problems and that's what I've been dealing with for 20 years here up north.
I'm thinking it could be radiant energy from your LED light causing the leaf temp to get too high but moving the light back should show improvement if that were the case. When I'm playing around with setting up my HID light(s) I use an infrared laser thermometer to check the leaf temps. Much more accurate than the old back of the hand method.
I've never seen a pH problem cause leaf edge curl before. When pH gets too high it can lock out micro-nutrients and then you see shit happen to newer growth like twisting, yellowing etc. Almost all the micro-nutrients are immobile so the plant can't steal them from older leaves like it can with the mobile nutes that are N,P,K, Mg and Zn.
Alright will do thank you.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
You do want to invest in one, you just don't know it yet. Even a cheap one is good enough for the temperature range we are working with.
PissingNutes
Active Member
Her immune system will get a boost from the better light and show more vigor overall.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
More likely increase growth rate and therefore need for feed thus exacerbating the deficiency. I have seen this many times in my growing life and it's caused by a lack of magnesium. It could be a low pH locking it out, low PPM feed not providing enough, or a feed thats just lacking the magnesium like RO water sans calmag.
So should I start using cal mag or can I topdress with worm castings? I did mix about 20 to 30% of those ten gallon pots with worm castings so i hope that they wouldn't be out of nutrients in that by now, am I overestimating the usefulness of worm castings? I thought they were good for micronutrients
Renfro
Well-Known Member
To determine the best course of action I would need to know the medium, what your current feed is (ppm/pm/mix of??). Can't just go throwing more magnesium if you already have enough.
jonnynobody
Well-Known Member
I skip the cookie part altogether and eat straight butter. My wife prefers to bake cookies. She always decarbs the bud first. It vastly improves the potency of the butter. When I use to make it I skipped the decarb process. It wasn't very strong. I eat 3-4 tablespoons right before bed for a great night's sleep and a dreamy next day. I literally have trouble walking in the middle of the night just to take a piss. I usually don't even snack because I'm so dizzy I just want to go back to sleep. Chronic insomniac here. I consider these good qualities
Renfro
Well-Known Member
I have been known to smear a little cannabutter on some toast. Definitely decarbed. A little goes a very long way when decarbed.I skip the cookie part altogether and eat straight butter. My wife prefers to bake cookies. She always decarbs the bud first. It vastly improves the potency of the butter. When I use to make it I skipped the decarb process. It wasn't very strong. I eat 3-4 tablespoons right before bed for a great night's sleep and a dreamy next day. I literally have trouble walking in the middle of the night just to take a piss. I usually don't even snack because I'm so dizzy I just want to go back to sleep. Chronic insomniac here. I consider these good qualities
I'm using promix bx mycorrhizae with 30% earthworm casing and my fertilizer is biothrive which is GH's organic line. Dont know the ppm how do I test that?
Renfro
Well-Known Member
You need an EC meter.
What water source? Is it RO or other filtered/distilled h2o? If so then you need calmag.
I haven't used the organic line so I am no expert with it.
Whats your pH running?
ph is around 6 to 6.5 but last watering I forgot to ph... but the leaves have been doing that since before then so I'm not sure if it's that. And no I'm just using dechlorinated tap water
Renfro
Well-Known Member
With tap water I would want to know the starting PPM.
A way to provide more magnesium without adding calcium is to use epsom salt. 1 gram per gallon will provide 26 mg/l magnesium and 36 mg/l sulfur. (mg/l is actual PPM where an EC reading just uses electrical conductivity to estimate the PPM).
Typically I don't want to go throwing more magnesium at the problem unless I have determined it is actually lacking and not a pH issue. From the sounds of things your probably in the right pH zone but sometimes the medium has a mind of it's own and the pH can be off.
I like the bluelab soil pH meter, works good in liquids but can also read the soil pH.
A way to provide more magnesium without adding calcium is to use epsom salt. 1 gram per gallon will provide 26 mg/l magnesium and 36 mg/l sulfur. (mg/l is actual PPM where an EC reading just uses electrical conductivity to estimate the PPM).
Typically I don't want to go throwing more magnesium at the problem unless I have determined it is actually lacking and not a pH issue. From the sounds of things your probably in the right pH zone but sometimes the medium has a mind of it's own and the pH can be off.
I like the bluelab soil pH meter, works good in liquids but can also read the soil pH.
Okay I'll test the soil ph
Yo it's gotten much worse. I'm actually pretty worried, I have yet to ph the soil but should I just get some epsom salts? There is limestone in the soil so doesn't that change the ph to 7? Or am I wrong? Sorry I have so many questions