Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
And that's a really good idea nevegoodenuf. I would just do that as well. Clear 1" heat shrink wrap right? The tube kind?
Not to be a grumpy grammarian, but those are diodes, not cobs. And, look at the GE. It has the diodes "on top" as you said. That's what looks so appealing about it. Automatically 23% more light replacing a Cree 9.5w A19 in a reflector. And, massively more light than a free-hung CFL (due to the directionality of the "on top" design, making it almost as easy to use as an unreflected CFL while getting the intensity of reflected light -- at 33% less power.).It's too bad the cobs aren't on top of the fixture rather than the sides.
I may not understand. If you remove the diffuser of the BrightStik, the diodes all face in one direction (forward). I thought that's what you meant when you said "It's too bad the cobs aren't on top of the fixture rather than the sides."That is the GE Brightstik you were talking about. He just removed the diffuser. The emitters are along the sides of the post. Not the "top" but where my lights are all on a 45 degree angle, it's just fine.
I needed to do this anway. This is the GE 10w BrightStik with the diffuser removed:No I thought you meant there were diodes on the top flat circle of the post. But they line the sides up and down
Ground Fault Interrupter. It protects against contact with any 120v surface which is exposed by removing the diffusor. I haven't tested what surfaces are shock-worthy. But, at least the two-prong thing sticking up 1/2" above the surface is line voltage. A dab of silicone on that might work. But, GFI is the safest solution, I believe.I just plug stuff in... what's the use of the gfi. I can't remember. Sorry I'm so lame.
That's a Cree A19 or A21. If you looked at the links I posted earlier, you'd see some info about them. I grow with A19 and PAR38. They work very well.What the hell light did Nevergoodenuf post a picture of then?