subs supersoil

DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
st0wandgrow said:
Well of course I added compost. 1/3 of my base is EWC. If you look in to it the CEC of coco coir it is not as high as peat moss. Believe me, we beat this topic to death on here.

I dont think my mind was playing tricks on me as far as water retention goes. These are strains that I've been growing for quite a while, and a plant that I would typically water every second day in a peat moss base would go 3 to 4 days without need ing water in the coir.

Either way, yield suffered. Not blaming the coir per se, just an observation I made.
Click to expand...
Same strains and an extra 50-100% time between waterings.. That much a difference hey… Wow

Nothing else added or changed? No perlite bottom of the pots, not any less fans, or lighting? Hmm. And a recycled batch so same castings?

If so, I might be tempted to consider running your coir runs with 15% EWC instead of 33% and give that a try!

Petro's research findings has me testing the theory that its better to have less (better qual) EWC .. I'm sure your castings are potent and alive, maybe give it a shot! Can always add the other 18% if you don't like it.. Despite this last study that surfaced, THIS study found that 15% was the sweet spot, and made for higher yields and more branches, with less nodal spacing.

(Petro will have it, Stow and its also on our thread around page 35 i think)
Keep us posted!!
 
st0wandgrow

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
DonTesla said:
Same strains and an extra 50-100% time between waterings.. That much a difference hey… Wow

Nothing else added or changed? No perlite bottom of the pots, not any less fans, or lighting? Hmm. And a recycled batch so same castings?

If so, I might be tempted to consider running your coir runs with 15% EWC instead of 33% and give that a try!

Petro's research findings has me testing the theory that its better to have less (better qual) EWC .. I'm sure your castings are potent and alive, maybe give it a shot! Can always add the other 18% if you don't like it.. Despite this last study that surfaced, THIS study found that 15% was the sweet spot, and made for higher yields and more branches, with less nodal spacing.

(Petro will have it, Stow and its also on our thread around page 35 i think)
Keep us posted!!
Click to expand...
Not exactly a scientific study, just an observation I made. Everything remained the same with the exception of the coco coir.

Interesting info on the 15% mark for compost/castings. I may just give that a whirl and see how it does. It almost makes sense in a no-till to start with less castings in the original mix considering that I top dress with EWC in between rounds, so the medium ends up being a larger and larger % of castings over time
 
DonTesla

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
st0wandgrow said:
Not exactly a scientific study, just an observation I made. Everything remained the same with the exception of the coco coir.

Interesting info on the 15% mark for compost/castings. I may just give that a whirl and see how it does. It almost makes sense in a no-till to start with less castings in the original mix considering that I top dress with EWC in between rounds, so the medium ends up being a larger and larger % of castings over time
Click to expand...
Still. A very good observation and interesting one at that..
I used to top dress with just castings, now I am trying just supersoil for the most part.
starting to test a combo of SS, EWC, & bacterial friendly (green) mulches. Especially thick mulches on the fabric pots. Thinner for the plastic since they don't breathe as well, especially our double pots.

Most my extra population gets dispersed in the soil and mulch. Gwan expand as I get more space. Would like to triple up like you did, i know what you mean about it not being enough.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
st0wandgrow said:
Not exactly a scientific study, just an observation I made. Everything remained the same with the exception of the coco coir.

Interesting info on the 15% mark for compost/castings. I may just give that a whirl and see how it does. It almost makes sense in a no-till to start with less castings in the original mix considering that I top dress with EWC in between rounds, so the medium ends up being a larger and larger % of castings over time
Click to expand...
you know, I had some pretty substantial yield differences when I used coco in a mix I used a couple years ago, I attributed it to not rinsing the coco enough, even though I soaked and rinsed it four times. So you aren't alone on that regard, that's was the last time I used it, I prefer the peat, but the environment...
I re-use my soil, so in my mind that helps the environment, right? I mean I don't live in a solar powered house with a Nissan leaf that runs off my solar energy, sooo, but hey, at least i'm not driving a 8.1 liter v8 chevy,..
 
radicaldank42

radicaldank42

Well-Known Member
what was the substantial yield difference between the two like grams ounces or what? and thanks for the tip, ill try to keep my EWC at 15% in my mix. and I add perlite to my mix but I don't use peat. and I add alfalfa which also adds to the water retention and its awesome or bacteria growth as well.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
radicaldank42 said:
what was the substantial yield difference between the two like grams ounces or what? and thanks for the tip, ill try to keep my EWC at 15% in my mix. and I add perlite to my mix but I don't use peat. and I add alfalfa which also adds to the water retention and its awesome or bacteria growth as well.
Click to expand...
i'd say a good 5-10% less on each plant, at that time I was running two 600w hps, and one 400 w MH, and I had 6 scrogged plants, (usually got 8-10 oz a plant) I always rotate the plants, and use new bulbs, so all in all, i'd say it was about an oz a plant difference, maybe a lil less, but times that by 6, and it was significant at the end. the buds looked about the same, but came out a lil lighter than normal, so I stopped using it, and went back to peat. It could have been many other variables, but, really, unless you can do a scientific controlled study with hundreds of plants it's hard to tell what it was from, but when I went back to peat, my yields went back too, so I kinda attributed it to the coco.
Coco works well for seed starting and clones though, but most inert materials do, vermiculite, perlite, rockwool, etc.
 
radicaldank42

radicaldank42

Well-Known Member
hmm that is true.. I just like th taste better in my opinion maybe ill give peat a try.. hmm idk nmore researh is required!!!
 
desertdog

desertdog

Well-Known Member
Cann said:
use diatomaceous earth for long term silica. organic rice also has a good amount of silica in it and will feed the fungi in your soil...i dont know silica blast personally so I would be skeptical to add it, I do however add Dyna-grow Pro-tekt into every watering for silica.
Click to expand...
The DTE is the best, cheapest route. And it gives off a lot of calcium and many other trace minerals and stays in the soil for quite a while.
 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Hello organik's growers!
I'm from France, and I'll love to use T.G.A Supersoil,but where in U.E may I find it?
I'm not gonna buy it from U.S it is too far,expensive and my carbon footprint going to reach the sky...so if you have European store for me it'll be nice.
See you soon!
 
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Hello everybody

Radicaldank,it's a good idea, but try to find AZOMITE in U.E...and the others ingredients are hard to find or didn't exist.
But we have: Flour worm guano 1/47/32 NPK do you know it?
See you growers
 
sloppyseconds

sloppyseconds

Member
greenghost420 said:
would some silica blast be the best way to add some silica or any ammendments i can throw in?
Click to expand...
Im not sure if you guys are aware but general hydroponics ph up is potassium carbonate and potassium silicate which is main ingredient in silica blast i usually throw my ph down in first so i can add a little more ph up ya herd! On the other hand Silca Blast is a good product it protects the plant from heat stress so in return you get more light up take i had um flourishing in 100 degree weather with it!
 
Last edited:
littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Hello growers!
So is anyone know flour worm guano:NPK 1/47/32.Do you have it in your country? And do any English people over here, known where to find AZOMITE in Europe and the rest of the ingredients too? If not I'm gonna try Biotabs or sannie's tablets for veg and flour worm guano for blooming (with something else)
See you guys
 
Pattahabi

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
st0wandgrow said:
Well of course I added compost. 1/3 of my base is EWC. If you look in to it the CEC of coco coir it is not as high as peat moss. Believe me, we beat this topic to death on here.

I dont think my mind was playing tricks on me as far as water retention goes. These are strains that I've been growing for quite a while, and a plant that I would typically water every second day in a peat moss base would go 3 to 4 days without need ing water in the coir.

Either way, yield suffered. Not blaming the coir per se, just an observation I made.
Click to expand...
Will you continue using coir instead of peat? Just curious as usual.

P-
 
st0wandgrow

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Pattahabi said:
Will you continue using coir instead of peat? Just curious as usual.

P-
Click to expand...
I don't think so. I didn't hate it, but I ended up with less yield so I see no good reason to use it again given the fact that it has to be shipped from half way across the globe.

I'll have some leaf mold ready in the spring/summer. I'm really hoping that does well as a peat substitute. Can't beat free and environmentally friendly!
 
radicaldank42

radicaldank42

Well-Known Member
what is leaf mold exactly?? how do you prepare it my friend?i also don't like azomite. felt like the ladies didn't appreciate it at all. and I agree im going to use peat with a mixing of coco. everytyhing finished and the one with mostly peat harvested nicer and buds were a lil denser.
 
st0wandgrow

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
radicaldank42 said:
what is leaf mold exactly?? how do you prepare it my friend?i also don't like azomite. felt like the ladies didn't appreciate it at all. and I agree im going to use peat with a mixing of coco. everytyhing finished and the one with mostly peat harvested nicer and buds were a lil denser.
Click to expand...
Leaf mold is simply broken down leaves from your yard. It's similar to a compost pile, but no thermophilic microbes are present. It's an almost exclusively fungal decomposition reffered to as cold composting. You mulch the leaves, pile them up, project a small amount of an N source (I used alfalfa meal) on to the pile and wet it down. I used some chicken wire to fence it off a bit so the wind didn't blow shit around. In about 12 months I will have a highly fungal, peat-like substance that can be used in place of peat moss or coco coir. 100% free!
 
a senile fungus

a senile fungus

Well-Known Member
st0wandgrow said:
Leaf mold is simply broken down leaves from your yard. It's similar to a compost pile, but no thermophilic microbes are present. It's an almost exclusively fungal decomposition reffered to as cold composting. You mulch the leaves, pile them up, project a small amount of an N source (I used alfalfa meal) on to the pile and wet it down. I used some chicken wire to fence it off a bit so the wind didn't blow shit around. In about 12 months I will have a highly fungal, peat-like substance that can be used in place of peat moss or coco coir. 100% free!
Click to expand...
Dude if I buy the house where I'm living I'm going to have a big leaf pile, compost pile, and worm bin.

If you ever need any I'll hook you up.

Which reminds me, I'm sending you a PM ;-)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top