Straight swap from COB to QB

Gquebed

Gquebed

Well-Known Member
I am completely ignorant of electricty and electronic circuits....

So i was wondering... can i dismantle my Tasty LED cobs and just straight swap in QB boards?

By that i mean just take out the cob lights and attach those leads to QBs?
 
W

Woolster22

Member
Boatguy said:
What do you expect to gain by swapping them out? Is it a height issue?
Click to expand...
Spectrum? Coverage?

If anything I'd say adding qbs to the existing COBs might make sense? Cobs over each plant, qbs as side/filler lighting between the cobs?

The new 96 elites are more pr less a combo of the ideas between the spacing of qb boards (288s, 324s, etc) and not needing heat management, with the smaller footprint and resulting penetration of cobs. More or less the best of both worlds (185w passive cooled from a footprint slightly larger than a credit card, while no need for active cooling, better penetration than larger boards and none of the heat issues of cobs, and improved spectrum compared woth either). The term "elite," seems quite apt.
 
Gquebed

Gquebed

Well-Known Member
Boatguy said:
What do you expect to gain by swapping them out? Is it a height issue?
Click to expand...
Coverage.
I want to spread the light out more evenly accross the canopy and thereby be able to bring the lights closer down to the canopy.

I find the plants directly underneath the cob light tend to bleach if too close... and so i raise the light and... you know the rest...
 
Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Gquebed said:
Coverage.
I want to spread the light out more evenly accross the canopy and thereby be able to bring the lights closer down to the canopy.

I find the plants directly underneath the cob light tend to bleach if too close... and so i raise the light and... you know the rest...
Click to expand...
I do. The more even spread is an attraction for me to the the boards.
I havent had any trouble with bleaching or stretch though. If i had i would be looking to switch too.
 
Last edited:
W

Woolster22

Member
Boatguy said:
Neither of those would change.
Unless you went with a different spectrum board. Coverage would remain the same, either way.
May be a slight gain in efficiency but wouldnt be noticeable. Heat would be about the same.
Click to expand...
Not sure what color temps are in stock, but he certainly could change the spectrum with elites...a more negligible change qould be different color temp rated boards ckmpared to whatever he has going on with cobs. The larger footprint of a 288 for example means less of a focal point, therefor ypu can get the lights much closer. So yes, those things would change.
 
W

Woolster22

Member
Gquebed said:
This is what i have... i have four of them.


> The T4-2100: 4x CXB3590 CD bin 3000K 80CRI, Meanwell HLG-320H-C2100B
Click to expand...
Pretty sure the 2100 could run 2 elite v2s in series and be fine. Check out the recommended drivers portion of hlgs page to double check (i run their other drivers, cant remember which cc drivers handle what). What size space are you filling? Iirc that would rock a 2x4 no problem.
 
Gquebed

Gquebed

Well-Known Member
Woolster22 said:
Pretty sure the 2100 could run 2 elite v2s in series and be fine. Check out the recommended drivers portion of hlgs page to double check (i run their other drivers, cant remember which cc drivers handle what). What size space are you filling? Iirc that would rock a 2x4 no problem.
Click to expand...
I have two 4x4 flood tables. And i have 4 of 2100s covering that...
 
Gquebed

Gquebed

Well-Known Member
Boatguy said:
I do. The more even spread is an attraction for me to the the boards.
I havent had any trouble with bleaching or stretch though. If i had i would be looking to switch too.
Click to expand...
No trouble with stretch... but some probs with bleaching. Thats easily fixed by lifting the lights, but of course that drops intensity for the plants not directly underneath even more so.

So i would prefer a more even spread... and if it isnt a major hassle then why not right? Love the Tasty COBs though... theyre great.
 
W

Woolster22

Member
So youd be running 2 drivers per 4x4? That should be about perfect if those drivers will link up with the elites alright. Somewhere, someone posted all the mapping on the elites. 2 per 2x4 or 4 per 4x4 were more or less perfect. At those wattages you should be running nice and cool as well.
 
Gquebed

Gquebed

Well-Known Member
Woolster22 said:
So youd be running 2 drivers per 4x4? That should be about perfect if those drivers will link up with the elites alright. Somewhere, someone posted all the mapping on the elites. 2 per 2x4 or 4 per 4x4 were more or less perfect. At those wattages you should be running nice and cool as well.
Click to expand...
Yes exactly 2 drivers per 4x4 table.
 
W

Woolster22

Member
Gquebed said:
Yes exactly 2 drivers per 4x4 table.
Click to expand...
So it looks like the elites are out. They recommend 320-2800n rather than 320-2100 on the elites. The 240-2100 would be ok though?

Honestly, your beat bet might be the cobs mixed with some strips/boards? Get some red in there and use white strips/boards to supplement around the "hot spots" created with cobs?
 
Thundercat

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
When I make the switch to LED it will be for coverage, getting away from single source light and getting a blanket of intensity over my whole canopy ;). Which makes me look towards strips or bar light builds. I'm really interested in the new Amare 8 bar honestly, but a strip build would be way cheaper :).
 
topcat

topcat

Well-Known Member
Gquebed said:
Coverage.
I want to spread the light out more evenly accross the canopy and thereby be able to bring the lights closer down to the canopy.

I find the plants directly underneath the cob light tend to bleach if too close... and so i raise the light and... you know the rest...
Click to expand...
If yours has lenses, like mine, remove them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top