Still too hot

coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Lighter404 said:
I've been moving mine all over the place trying to get a reading that doesn't freak me out. The plant is in veg and doesn't look like it will die, but I just can't seem to be able to lower the temps much. I have a 6in hyperfan and it's turned most of the way down cuz my small grow tent looks like it will implode, walls sucking in at least 3in. Also last night it was dead calm and I grew paranoid neighbors and people on the street might hear it if I turned it up higher. Would jacking it up make a difference? It's actually cooler in the tent than the room it's in and outside too. With the lights off. Yesterday w/ lights on it got up to 97 if I can believe that thermometer.
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Can you open more vents in the tent or use some of the lower sockets to allow more air in? Even if you use a cardboard box cut to block the light escaping, if you can let more air in then more air will go out easier and put less strain on your fan.

When you say a 4" intake, do you mean a passive duct which you have then added a 50cfm bathroom fan to?
 
Lighter404

Lighter404

Active Member
coreywebster said:
Can you open more vents in the tent or use some of the lower sockets to allow more air in? Even if you use a cardboard box cut to block the light escaping, if you can let more air in then more air will go out easier and put less strain on your fan.

When you say a 4" intake, do you mean a passive duct which you have then added a 50cfm bathroom fan to?
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Yup 4in flexible aluminum duct w/ a bathroom fan on the end and also some fabric I put on both sides of the duct as a particulate filter. I do have a few more vents I could try. I'll probably wait until the next light cycle to add them.
 
oldcarp

oldcarp

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
So what your saying is when in flower the light is raised and ducting compressed and when in Veg you fully extend the ducting so the light comes lower down. You could instead shorten the ducting and raise the plants to the light in veg. Keeping the ducting smooth. Rather than bring the light up and down. But in honesty I don't think your fan will struggle even if the ducting isn't pulled tight because its still relatively a short length.
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coreywebster said:
So what your saying is when in flower the light is raised and ducting compressed and when in Veg you fully extend the ducting so the light comes lower down. You could instead shorten the ducting and raise the plants to the light in veg. Keeping the ducting smooth. Rather than bring the light up and down. But in honesty I don't think your fan will struggle even if the ducting isn't pulled tight because its still relatively a short length.
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I had already bought some solid metal 90 degree elbows to place at the end of my light and at the end of the filter to try to keep that part of the connection as smooth as possible with minimal sharp bends of the flex duct

But like you said my 420 CFM fan should have plenty of power to run fresh cooler air in there in seconds The actual room size 24" x 53" x 96" tall and with the space the filter and the light take up i only have 63" to the bottom of the light from the floor when the light is raised to the maximum

I stlll see others claiming a difference of only 5-6 from the outside of the growing room and that is what puzzles me but i think thermometr placement means a lot
 
oldcarp

oldcarp

Well-Known Member
mjinc said:
If you've got central A/C have you considered using an inlet fan to push the cold air from your room into your tent
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Its not a tent its a closet that must be kept stealthy and thats why i use the negative pressur system for fresh 74 degree air from the room the closet is in
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Lighter404 said:
Yup 4in flexible aluminum duct w/ a bathroom fan on the end and also some fabric I put on both sides of the duct as a particulate filter. I do have a few more vents I could try. I'll probably wait until the next light cycle to add them.
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I would of thought the 50cfm fan would actually restrict the airflow rather than help it. Because your extraction will be trying to pull much more than that, plus a 4" duct passive should allow a lot more than 50cfm. Have you ever tried it without that intake fan or with it turned off to see if the tent caves in more or less. I would of thought it would cave in less. But I might be wrong.
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
oldcarp said:
Thanks for the reply Michigan MedGrower!
That is a bummer.
What is the name brand of that unit?
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It doesn't say but I think the original package said Growers Edge.

I am sure these are rebranded Chinese meters.

They were called Big Display temp/humidistat.

I have tried Amazon but they all seem like junk I am sorry to say.

And I dropped and broke one of these I like.

I will say all the white digital ones I tried read the same temps and all.
 
oldcarp

oldcarp

Well-Known Member
oldcarp said:
I had already bought some solid metal 90 degree elbows to place at the end of my light and at the end of the filter to try to keep that part of the connection as smooth as possible with minimal sharp bends of the flex duct

But like you said my 420 CFM fan should have plenty of power to run fresh cooler air in there in seconds The actual room size 24" x 53" x 96" tall and with the space the filter and the light take up i only have 63" to the bottom of the light from the floor when the light is raised to the maximum

I stlll see others claiming a difference of only 5-6 from the outside of the growing room and that is what puzzles me but i think thermometr placement means a lot
Click to expand...
I dont know if you guys have seen those home made DIY air conditioners made with a cooler, a fan PVC pipe and some ice!
What an ingenious idea! Im gonna run another post on that
 
Lighter404

Lighter404

Active Member
coreywebster said:
I would of thought the 50cfm fan would actually restrict the airflow rather than help it. Because your extraction will be trying to pull much more than that, plus a 4" duct passive should allow a lot more than 50cfm. Have you ever tried it without that intake fan or with it turned off to see if the tent caves in more or less. I would of thought it would cave in less. But I might be wrong.
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I had tried it w/out the fan at first and it worked a bit, in less oppressive conditions it would be all I need. The fan did help bring it down a few degrees though. I made a little cardboard box/hood thing to cover the mesh vent to make a more indirect route for light to get in. I also took some tubes from paper towel rolls and bundled them/wrapped a bit of scrap fabric over the ends and cinched them into the double lined circular vent on the side. W/ this I was able to turn my fan all the way up and the tent seems to be just as much or maybe slightly less caving in than before so I'm calling it a win. Temp is now 94.5 in the tent, 92 in the room. So as crappy as that is at least my setup itself runs relatively cool. Just found out it's gonna get down to the mid 50s tonight and should stay cool for a little while, so I think my plant will live to fight another day.
 
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Chuckdizzle

Chuckdizzle

Well-Known Member
If you're willing to drop between $350 to $500 on a portable, but located outside your grow room, AC unit then check out Climate Right's 2500 and 5000 units that are made for DOG HOUSES! The unit sits outside of your room, is sealed and ducted. This is an ingenious design for indoor growers!
 
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