start of nute/ph lockout?
- Thread starter min0r
- Start date
tiltswitch
Well-Known Member
They look fine. Won't be calcium if your soil/soiless it's too early yet. Won't be nute lock out for same reason unless you've been tipping bottles into it. Probably just the strain or a million other genetic anomalies. Some strains go different colours when you start flowering getting used to the nutes if your doing everything correctly no doubt it will sort itself out.
min0r
Well-Known Member
watered with the tap water just now, neem oil spray for the mites problem i have is coming in tomorrow
min0r
Well-Known Member
sprayed neem oil on all the plants, and the bottom of leaves. my plants are beginning to yellow i'm guessing because lack of N with the lockout. today's the second day i've fed reg tap water, haven't gotten to the lime yet, didnt think it was needed as my tap water's ph is 7.4
You can't do that with organics unfortunately.
The soil is your medium. Not your water.
My original advice still stands.
To check your mediums ph -
If it's soil use the slurry method. Or use a ph stake.
If you're in hydro, measure your waste. Ppms are more reliable this way, running hydro too.
If your ferts truly don't contain calcium. Then you need some. It's what it looked like to me.
Check the ph first. Because it could just be low. Double check there definitely isn't calcium too. Are there any rust spots, or any yellowing on your bottom fans?
If you're running soil, bare in mind it may contain calcium already.
You need to determine you mediums ph. Before making any kind of move. A low ph will lockout calcium.
At the same time if the ph is in range. Like a tad over 6. I'd say you just need to give some calcium.
This is why you gotta find out your ph.
As I suggested a tiny bit of 1.0.0 calmag before you lime too. It'll temporarily improve, until th lime starts to kick in.
Just don't use the calmag after you lime. It'll be useless, because it'll just attach to your lime. Instead of dispersing through the media.
Good luck OP.
I'd even suggest gypsum as your lime.
As you stated there's no calcium in your nutrients.
Gypsum dissolves 200 times faster than other limes.
It'll keep your ph between 6 and 7. It basically doesn't alter your ph at all.
Nitrogen is showing because calcium is a nitrogen fixer. Nitrogen depends on calcium. Other nutrients as well. I suggest researching nutrient antagonism.
As you stated there's no calcium in your nutrients.
Gypsum dissolves 200 times faster than other limes.
It'll keep your ph between 6 and 7. It basically doesn't alter your ph at all.
Nitrogen is showing because calcium is a nitrogen fixer. Nitrogen depends on calcium. Other nutrients as well. I suggest researching nutrient antagonism.
min0r
Well-Known Member
how much of gypsum do you need? do you just sprinkle the dust onto the dirt then water it
What's the volume of your pot? There's a m2 dosage for pasture. But I always lime by feel.
Yes. There's a term used in top feeding. It's called "scratching". Scratch the gypsum into your soil. Then water it right in.
Remember to be hitting the plant with neem every three days. It takes only three days for mite eggs to hatch. So you spray every three days to break their life cycle. The neem is systemic. You need to hit the future generations. So they become infertile. It won't take long.
As I said after a week or two. If the bastards are still around just use a different insecticide. Switch it up on them. Fuck them up
Good luck op.
Much love.
min0r
Well-Known Member
what's volume again? sorry - dont know all the slang yetWhat's the volume of your pot? There's a m2 dosage for pasture. But I always lime by feel.
Yes. There's a term used in top feeding. It's called "scratching". Scratch the gypsum into your soil. Then water it right in.
Remember to be hitting the plant with neem every three days. It takes only three days for mite eggs to hatch. So you spray every three days to break their life cycle. The neem is systemic. You need to hit the future generations. So they become infertile. It won't take long.
As I said after a week or two. If the bastards are still around just use a different insecticide. Switch it up on them. Fuck them up
Good luck op.
Much love.
min0r
Well-Known Member
oh my bad, thought it just meant something else to do with the soil, 3.7L
I reckon a few tablespoons will do it bro.
It's not a big pot either. Which is a good thing, because the gypsum will disperse faster.
News keeps getting better op.
Are you planning to transplant?
min0r
Well-Known Member
Yes, tomorrow. going into 5 gal pots.
rob333
Well-Known Member
i have never used ph in soil
Sweet!! Even better!
Don't worry about doing shit right now. You don't need to.
Tomorrow. If it's the same soil. When you transplant. Put some gypsum in your new pot. Mix it in with your soil.
Case closed op.
Happy growing brother.
min0r
Well-Known Member
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rob333
Well-Known Member
old leaves?? is the light getting to them leaves ??? soil on the leaves may rot like that ? drips of nutes on leaves take a pic bro peace
rob333
Well-Known Member
im saying the led cant penetrate to the bottoms leaves so she will lose em for more production thats my guess but im pretty sure someone is gonna get all nute lock out ph issue on your ass just wait lol
rob333
Well-Known Member
do me a favor bro people taking a stab just guessing here off 1 photo lol can u snap me a pic of the whole plant standing up 2 side shots of each side of the plant finish with a steam in the soil coco and bottom leaves pls inbox them to me ill sort the issue mate peace
At a guess I'd say it's out grown the pot. It's dropping bottom growth, so it can keep growing taller. It needed a new pot sooner.
The symptoms are lack of calcium. Which antagonises nitrogen.
All this is telling you. Is you need some added calcium, and a bigger pot. Don't be surprised if you need some magnesium along the way. Epsom salt is good. You could even throw a handful into your new pot, and stir it in. It'll time release that way.
