Sr. Verde's: Concentrate Corner

oakley1984

oakley1984

Well-Known Member
Olddirty said:
so newbie here, i have blown through an entire case of vector (12 cans bout $60 for the case where i live) i run each can 3x threw a stainless steel turkey baster with about 14-16 grams of TRIM from last year's outdoor crop (not the best but i have endless amounts and nothing to do with it) i was just wondering if i could post my method and get some pointers, when i get my wife's lazy to help ill make a video for finer critiques.
So, I: pack my tube with trim (after a round in the food processor)
apply 2 layers of coffee filters, secure with hose clamp
run 20s of vector through tube into waiting pyrex dish. run additional 5s of tane if it wasn't clear yet after 20s
let sit until i return with hottest water my tap can produce (when i do multiple cans i usually let a pot of water sit on the stove at low or 1)
pour water into dish around pyrex, watch pretty bubbles XD
about 2-3 mins after bubbles stop popping i take the pyrex dish to the oven that is on warm or 200f (lowest my oven goes) depending on how warm the day is
after about 5 mins in the oven (with door OPEN) i remove dish to cool on the stove until i can touch it with bare hands
scrap all gooey goodness off with razor blade and onto waiting parchment paper

i have yet to invest in a vacuum chamber, i see some ppl use them some ppl dont. i always test my oil after each run by holding a lighter over the product and watching for sparks (i do this well away from my extraction area) im still skeptical about the butane content. im also very tired of doing 3 runs a can, id rather enlarge my extraction vessel and run only once or twice per can. Any suggestions?

overall i would like to increase my yield PER run, either by increasing efficiency, enlarging extraction vessel, or anything at all.
Also my end product is black as night and looks like motor oil, is there anything wrong with it? my collective does not seem to think so but i still have my suspicions.
Here's some pics of my raw materiel, processed materiel, tools, and end product (about 13g after burning through 13 cans of vector....seems like im doing something wrong)
View attachment 2290339View attachment 2290340View attachment 2290342View attachment 2290344

anyone who has tubes for sale im looking for something i can use 1/2-1 whole can of tane in, pref stainless steel
any and all help is greatly appreciated!

ps i am EXTREMELY clean with my equipment, i clean the tube and pyrex dishes with 91% alcohol after each run...is this necessary? not OCD or anything i just respect the power of chemistry, i dont wanna fuck anything (specially me) up, but if this is unnecessary then id like to remove it from my routine
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step 1; get coffee grinder, reduce material to powder
step 2; pack the tube with a packing rod (not "solid")
derp.
 
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irieie

Well-Known Member
I don't like to cut up my material I just let it dry and the. Pack it in. I find the end product is better this way. Also I would not do the oven step this could be the reason for the dirty color. It is ultimately up to preference. When make bho I want a light colored waxy product in the end. I find if you heat too much you will never reach that color and consistency. Also the material you use is going to dictate the quality of your oil. And lastly you don't need to run nearly as much butane through the turkey baster. I run one full can when I used to use turkey basters and I would only pack about 10 grams.
 
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Olddirty

Active Member
irieie said:
I don't like to cut up my material I just let it dry and the. Pack it in. I find the end product is better this way. Also I would not do the oven step this could be the reason for the dirty color. It is ultimately up to preference. When make bho I want a light colored waxy product in the end. I find if you heat too much you will never reach that color and consistency. Also the material you use is going to dictate the quality of your oil. And lastly you don't need to run nearly as much butane through the turkey baster. I run one full can when I used to use turkey basters and I would only pack about 10 grams.
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so you're saying that 1/3 of a can of vector over 14-16g is too much tane when u used an entire can on 10g....did i miss something? As for the oven, i do that to get rid of some of the remaining butane and make it easier to scrape, but today its gunna be like 105f so ill try and let it sit for longer in the sun and skip the oven ill let u guys know how that goes.
as for the okief tubes my only problem is the feet of the stand are going to be IN my pyrex dish....i know i wont lose much each run but over time will i not lose a considerable amount when it drys and sticks to the metal?
 
ENDLSCYCLE

ENDLSCYCLE

Well-Known Member
The feet are removable and just wear gloves or get a silicon oven pad like Verde uses.

...edit...
I run four basters into one pan, one right after the other, each packed with 8 grams using 1 1/3 cans of Vector.
 
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Olddirty

Active Member
ENDLSCYCLE said:
The feet are removable and just wear gloves or get a silicon oven pad like Verde uses.

...edit...
I run four basters into one pan, one right after the other, each packed with 8 grams using 1 1/3 cans of Vector.
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how many 15g tubes with 1/3 can of vector through each do u think would be a good idea to put into one dish? cuz that would save me A LOT of time but i only have 1 tube so i would have to remove materiel, clean, and repack before each run....im guessing 5-7 minutes for tube to go from used to ready for another use.
Is there any loss of product if u run batches on top of each other like that?
 
ENDLSCYCLE

ENDLSCYCLE

Well-Known Member
Not sure about that much time in between.....I have all four basters ready to go. At the end of the last baster, it's maybe only been 2-3 minutes since the start of the first. Hope that helps.

But really....I think you could do whatever you want....shit....let it sit for an hour if you want...days even...lol....all you're doing is reintroducing butane to oil that has already purged out most of the 'tane in the water bath....at least that's how I see it...I'm sure there's some scientific shit to go along with why you shouldn't..........but I'm a stoner......not a scientist...haha
 
Sr. Verde

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
Olddirty said:
i have been packing my tube with a number 2 pencil XD u think the coffee grinder would be better than a food processor?
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I use a shirt hanger.. I take a plastic hanger, and cut off the straight part at the bottom. It's a little over a foot long, and I reach in and pack my tube down just a little every 2 inches of bud in the tube - to keep the pack consistent.

I always say, consistency of the material in size, and consistency of how much it's packed leads to either very good yield or very poor yield.

I just use a 4 piece space case like this:



Once the bud is the size of the holes, it falls through to a large collection container. The large one fits about 10 grams. It gets it to a chunky consistency so the butane can flow around it properly and soak up the buds. It keeps everything uniform in size.

I know people who coffee grind their stuff, but I find it really pulls off a lot of trichomes into the walls of the grinder with the force of the spinning blade tossing everything around like a blender. Also if you pack a lot of pulverized bud into a tube and blast high pressure gas into one end I feel like you are risking a blow out. So be careful how much butane you spray into the tube, with nothing coming out the other end.! aka watching the pressure!:shock: :shock:.. Coming from a guy who has had a 1.5oz blowout, they aren't fun. --- I just grind with that grinder, get chunky grinded material. Pack it in, but I don't pack it tight at all. Usually 26-34g will fit into one of my okief tubes, depending on the density of the flowers.





ENDLSCYCLE said:
Not sure about that much time in between.....I have all four basters ready to go. At the end of the last baster, it's maybe only been 2-3 minutes since the start of the first. Hope that helps.

But really....I think you could do whatever you want....shit....let it sit for an hour if you want...days even...lol....all you're doing is reintroducing butane to oil that has already purged out most of the 'tane in the water bath....at least that's how I see it...I'm sure there's some scientific shit to go along with why you shouldn't..........but I'm a stoner......not a scientist...haha
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that's awesome you have multiple basters, I'm glad it works for you ;). Screens, and hose clamps are cheap ! :clap:

As far as butane exposure. Less is actually better. At least I think this is the consensus, there are folks out there who just air dry their stuff and say they don't notice a difference. But I do.

I find that the longer my oil remains suspended in the butane, the more runny the consistency becomes. It becomes an actual oily consistency. Even once the butane is completely purged.
However, If you can spray and have the liquid butane evaporate very rapidly (say a couple minutes), you end up with a very stable & consistent product. You can stick a dabber in a puddle, start pulling off your soon to be dab, and it http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cleavage_%28crystal%29]cleaves right off the puddle[/url] when you pull hard enough. After you get your sap on the dabber, you should be able to pull it right off the dabber, roll it into a ball between your fingers, and toss it on your nail if you'd like. Without getting it stuck all over your fingers like the grease after putting your bicycle chain back on the sprocket. The good stuff is the stable stuff. You know the oil (generally) isn't of very good quality if it's difficult/impossible to handle at reasonable room temp with your hands.

As a further note, I've tried/experimented by running oil over a large pan, letting it dry for a little over a month, and then scraping it. Per someones suggestion that it's just as good as vacuum oil. It was ok. Not great at all though (to me). It still tasted scratchy, like it had some tane in it still. Even though I dried longer than specifically recommended. I defiantly decided that method wasn't for me. I totally prefer vacuum sap for my main medication over most stuff, now. Great consistency, and flavor.

Olddirty said:
how many 15g tubes with 1/3 can of vector through each do u think would be a good idea to put into one dish? cuz that would save me A LOT of time but i only have 1 tube so i would have to remove materiel, clean, and repack before each run....im guessing 5-7 minutes for tube to go from used to ready for another use.
Is there any loss of product if u run batches on top of each other like that?
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Why not just spray them all into there? I spray 3-4 tubes into a single pan, with a can and a quarter of 300mL per tube. Try to do it fast though, like the above.

& If I were you I'd get more tubes, honestly. And also, I wouldn't worry about cleaning if your just immediately stuffing the stuff into your tube to spray again. When I repacked tubes at the beginning, I didn't worry about it. I just started with clean tubes to begin with. I simply clean all my stuff with iso/salt before a run to be sanitary.

You won't lose weight by letting sap sit in butane, the oil isn't going anywhere when it's in the pan (unless you drop it :shock: ). However you will most likely loose out on great consistency, by letting the oil soak in butane.(read above).



Hope I didn't offend anyone, if you have a different tek than me. Simply sharing my own teks here and what I have found best for me. I'm not a scientist, so I can only work with observation. Please feel free to comment on your own tek/viewpoint ;). :hug:


:leaf:
 

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irieie

Well-Known Member
Hey thanks for sharing your techniques Verde. Some bho makers don't like to publisize how they do things so no one else learned their secrets. It is great to hear the process of legit bho makers who know what they are doing and take their shit seriously. Big up.
 
Sr. Verde

Sr. Verde

Well-Known Member
irieie said:
Hey thanks for sharing your techniques Verde. Some bho makers don't like to publisize how they do things so no one else learned their secrets. It is great to hear the process of legit bho makers who know what they are doing and take their shit seriously. Big up.
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Thanks man! Yeah it sucks when people don't like to share little tips or tricks as they think it's "their secret". Although I personally hate when people ask me to "show them how to make oil". I actually don't mind answering specific questions pertaining to the process. I just dislike the impatient "hey dude I don't know anything but teach me everything, now!" type questions - they can be annoying ! :).


Stay medicated ! :peace:
 
oakley1984

oakley1984

Well-Known Member
for those wondering on how to produce oil like that which is in the picture! simply click on the picture (Since we are on the subject)





^^^ click me for how to ^^^
 
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irieie

Well-Known Member
Just to be clear you should call that ISO hash or rick Simpson oil. It also goes by phoenix tears. This is not that same as bho, wax , errls, etc. I don't know about Canada but here in the US phoenix tears have a much different use than hash oil or wax. Phoenix tears are used in tropicals, eaten as is for.cancer patients and sometimes used in edibles. Bho is smoked primarily and also used in edibles like candies. I have eaten andade candies both with ricksimpson oil and with bho and the ones with rick Simpson oil taste like shit and you need to add more oil than you would bho. It also turns your candy a murky dirty color. And comparing smoking bho to rick Simpson oil is a joke.
 
cannabineer

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
irieie said:
Just to be clear you should call that ISO hash or rick Simpson oil. It also goes by phoenix tears. This is not that same as bho, wax , errls, etc. I don't know about Canada but here in the US phoenix tears have a much different use than hash oil or wax. Phoenix tears are used in tropicals, eaten as is for.cancer patients and sometimes used in edibles. Bho is smoked primarily and also used in edibles like candies. I have eaten andade candies both with ricksimpson oil and with bho and the ones with rick Simpson oil taste like shit and you need to add more oil than you would bho. It also turns your candy a murky dirty color. And comparing smoking bho to rick Simpson oil is a joke.
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Technically, iirc Rick Simpson oil is a hot naphtha (hydrocarbon) solvent extract. Oakley's is a cold quick iso wash. Different methods, different products with different characteristics. cn
 
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irieie

Well-Known Member
cannabineer said:
Technically, iirc Rick Simpson oil is a hot naphtha (hydrocarbon) solvent extract. Oakley's is a cold quick iso wash. Different methods, different products with different characteristics. cn
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You are correct and I was mistaken. I just checked out his website and he does.say that he now uses naptha or more commonly know as paint thinner. It seems that he switched from using ISO a bit ago. Tbh I did my research on him a few years back when he was still using iso and if he no longer uses it as a solvent, then it should tell you something about using ISO.
 
cannabineer

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
irieie said:
You are correct and I was mistaken. I just checked out his website and he does.say that he now uses naptha or more commonly know as paint thinner. It seems that he switched from using ISO a bit ago. Tbh I did my research on him a few years back when he was still using iso and if he no longer uses it as a solvent, then it should tell you something about using ISO.
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I would have agreed with that last sentiment, but Oakley's iso tech seems sound and was an eye-opener for me. I believe the principal reason for Rick Simpson's choice of solvent would have to do with efficiency and ease of use ... Oakley is satisfied with an 85-90% recovery in the interest of purity. He also sweats (mixed metaphor; I admit) being fast and careful in order to get his results. The hydrocarbon process is essentially mess-up-proof unlike the iso method, but personally? Paint thinner ack barf. The stuff smells bad, has a high boiling point and there's really no way to remove the gasoliny flavor from the newstyle RSO. My opinion. cn
 
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irieie

Well-Known Member
cannabineer said:
I would have agreed with that last sentiment, but Oakley's iso tech seems sound and was an eye-opener for me. I believe the principal reason for Rick Simpson's choice of solvent would have to do with efficiency and ease of use ... Oakley is satisfied with an 85-90% recovery in the interest of purity. He also sweats (mixed metaphor; I admit) being fast and careful in order to get his results. The hydrocarbon process is essentially mess-up-proof unlike the iso method, but personally? Paint thinner ack barf. The stuff smells bad, has a high boiling point and there's really no way to remove the gasoliny flavor from the newstyle RSO. My opinion. cn
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Oakley's process is flawless and that is some of the beat looking ISO oil I have ever seen, but I would personally choose bho over iso oil any day. And I agree with using naphtha, no way do I wanna be working with paint thinner. I like my pressurized extractions. I'll be getting a tamisium extractor in the next few months and then I will be using food grade n-butane. Once I have mastered that then I will look into setting up a co2 extraction lab for the cleanest product possible. I have started to make hard candies with my bho and they are very medicinal, delicious, discreet and effective. I am running a high cbd strain with a pheno that has 9% thc and 9% cbd. I plan on using this as a base to make medicine for cancer patients and other conditions. Does anyone know about extracting cbd or how to crystallize cbd? I believe it is possible to crystallize cbd but not thc hence why we use a solvent extraction for thc.
 
cannabineer

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
irieie said:
Oakley's process is flawless and that is some of the beat looking ISO oil I have ever seen, but I would personally choose bho over iso oil any day. And I agree with using naphtha, no way do I wanna be working with paint thinner. I like my pressurized extractions. I'll be getting a tamisium extractor in the next few months and then I will be using food grade n-butane. Once I have mastered that then I will look into setting up a co2 extraction lab for the cleanest product possible. I have started to make hard candies with my bho and they are very medicinal, delicious, discreet and effective. I am running a high cbd strain with a pheno that has 9% thc and 9% cbd. I plan on using this as a base to make medicine for cancer patients and other conditions. Does anyone know about extracting cbd or how to crystallize cbd? I believe it is possible to crystallize cbd but not thc hence why we use a solvent extraction for thc.
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The CBD question intrigues me. I'm not convinced a CO2 extraction is ideal for it. THC is miscible in every solvent but water and the highly-fluorinated fluids. I never did get a sample of CBD in hand to play with it, but I suspect it's more polar and less of a solubility slut. But in terms of prepping CBD pure enough to solidify it, I think serious lab equipment is needed. Chromatography and molecular distillation. cn
 
oilmkr420

oilmkr420

Active Member
I have my reasons for not detailing this now. Since the principles aren't related in any way with what you guys do, I wouldnt know where to start. Some people really have a hard time understanding in person, so where I dont type vs me speaking, theres just no way I could be thorough and make everyone accept my methods for what they are. So heres another picture to compensate the truth about the BOMB.
 
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