bigbrew
Well-Known Member
I wanted to make a log of my recent struggle to get rid of these damn hellbeasts called thrips, that have been feasting on my babies.
It should be noted I am growing in 5 gallon DWC buckets with hydroton in net pots.
First, if you have thrips problems, stop reading this thread and read this study:
http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/gh-thrips.html#specialists
Now on to my experience...
At first I saw one retatded looking young leaf about a month in and simply thought it was a random odd growth. Well a week and a half later more of the leaves showed the same and quickly spread. I identified it as thrips (thanks to RIU). I read that Pyrethrin spray and mosquito dunks for the watering are the best. It was late at night so Home Depot was my only option. I rushed out and got the dunks and the only two things they had with Pyrethrins in it: Bonide Garden Dust, and Shultz's spray.
I put 1/4 of a dunk in each of the 5 gal buckets, and watered the hydroton with dunked water. And let me say this: I do not reccomend repeating this, as the dunk granules got all entangled in my roots and are still there. The dunks are more intended for soil users, as the thrips reproduce in the soil. And it did not seem to do much for controlling the thrips for DWC at least.
I used the Bonide Garden Dust by making a spray out of it. It left a green powder coating on the leaves that washed off easily with spraying regular water. This controlled the thrips well for about 5 days. I started to see activity again so I used the Shultz's spray and they stayed gone for about three days.
Then I read that Fox Farms dont bug me was the best brand of Pyrethrins, so I went and got that. Used it and again worked for about 5 days, onlt to see more thrips.
Next I got the hot shot strip, which seemed to work very well for the 2 days I had it. However the vast majority of people I talked to regarding those told me to get it out of there ASAP as the chemical fog it produces is in fact toxic, and the plant would easily absorb it. So the only thing that worked now goes bye bye.
Then I went and got Dr Doom Pyrethrin foggers. Both were used in rooms well under the max size for the cans. Again about 5 days later, FUCKING DONT KNOW WHEN TO DIE THRIPS, back to eating my babies.
After further research, it appears that Spinosad, a somewhat new treatment, is designed for caterpillars and is not as damaging to other natural bugs you may not want to kill.
The Spinosad product I used was called Green Light Lawn and Garden. It is very concentrated so blend carefully. It has been 5 days and so far absolutely no signs of thrips activity! I am about three weeks to harvest, so thank goodness I can hopefully stop using chemical sprays.
I also used blue thrip traps that dont ever seem to get anything on them except pieces of leaf that get ripped off the plants cause those bastards are so damn sticky. Also that study suggests that hot pink colored traps are more effective than blue, so if you can find some hot pink ones.
So in summary, save yourself a lot of stress and try Spinosad first.
I will post an update in a few more days with progress.
It should be noted I am growing in 5 gallon DWC buckets with hydroton in net pots.
First, if you have thrips problems, stop reading this thread and read this study:
http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/gh-thrips.html#specialists
Now on to my experience...
At first I saw one retatded looking young leaf about a month in and simply thought it was a random odd growth. Well a week and a half later more of the leaves showed the same and quickly spread. I identified it as thrips (thanks to RIU). I read that Pyrethrin spray and mosquito dunks for the watering are the best. It was late at night so Home Depot was my only option. I rushed out and got the dunks and the only two things they had with Pyrethrins in it: Bonide Garden Dust, and Shultz's spray.
I put 1/4 of a dunk in each of the 5 gal buckets, and watered the hydroton with dunked water. And let me say this: I do not reccomend repeating this, as the dunk granules got all entangled in my roots and are still there. The dunks are more intended for soil users, as the thrips reproduce in the soil. And it did not seem to do much for controlling the thrips for DWC at least.
I used the Bonide Garden Dust by making a spray out of it. It left a green powder coating on the leaves that washed off easily with spraying regular water. This controlled the thrips well for about 5 days. I started to see activity again so I used the Shultz's spray and they stayed gone for about three days.
Then I read that Fox Farms dont bug me was the best brand of Pyrethrins, so I went and got that. Used it and again worked for about 5 days, onlt to see more thrips.
Next I got the hot shot strip, which seemed to work very well for the 2 days I had it. However the vast majority of people I talked to regarding those told me to get it out of there ASAP as the chemical fog it produces is in fact toxic, and the plant would easily absorb it. So the only thing that worked now goes bye bye.
Then I went and got Dr Doom Pyrethrin foggers. Both were used in rooms well under the max size for the cans. Again about 5 days later, FUCKING DONT KNOW WHEN TO DIE THRIPS, back to eating my babies.
After further research, it appears that Spinosad, a somewhat new treatment, is designed for caterpillars and is not as damaging to other natural bugs you may not want to kill.
The Spinosad product I used was called Green Light Lawn and Garden. It is very concentrated so blend carefully. It has been 5 days and so far absolutely no signs of thrips activity! I am about three weeks to harvest, so thank goodness I can hopefully stop using chemical sprays.
I also used blue thrip traps that dont ever seem to get anything on them except pieces of leaf that get ripped off the plants cause those bastards are so damn sticky. Also that study suggests that hot pink colored traps are more effective than blue, so if you can find some hot pink ones.
So in summary, save yourself a lot of stress and try Spinosad first.
I will post an update in a few more days with progress.
