xtcxlocstax
Active Member
Karr, great work!! i was looking at your thread to get and idea on how good your led is. Do you know were i could purchase one like yours?
Spectra Led 120. Stealth Cabinet, Scrog, Flowering has begun.
- Thread starter karr
- Start date
DoctorCanna
Well-Known Member
i cant tell how done they are can you get a few close up pics with ize comparison, they look really frosty but very small, i would say 2 oz maxdried, also also dont give advice about spectrum if this is your first led grow, more spectrums is not better!
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
^^^^
2oz max..........really lol......i want whatever your smoking........Good job Karr, I'm really digging these scrog+led grows....
karr
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the support, and i will get more macro shots tomorrow when i update.
I never actually recommended any amount or specific spectrum. I did at one point say that i believe many spectrum to be good, i did, however, follow that comment with the notion that leds with limited spectrum seem to grow just fine. Really the only other time i have mentioned spectrum is when discussing the use of Far red/Infra red to manipulate the photo-chrome and shorten night periods. And to be honest, i really dont think LEDs are tuned enough for anyone to give out advice that is much beyond speculation. Sure we are getting closer and better every day, but we still dont understand how plants utilize the different wavelengths to really nail anything down. For instance we are only just scratching the surface of low NM (400s) use to influence the beginning of the day cycle, which may prove to be important in doing a pfr manipulation grow.
moving on
2oz could be haha, ive chopped a fair number of plants in my day (not like pro status, but some) and, while there are many tops, they just arent swelling as well as i would like to have it really put on weight. Im showing no deficiencies, and the plant is transpiring at a decent rate, it may just be a late packer. Tomorrow i will have officially finished the 6th week, but do keep in mind that its 6 weeks from flipping, many breeders start their clock with bud-site development and go from there. This week can take up to 9 weeks to finish, and ive personally had a somewhat tortured one go 11. The browning hairs is a little disconcerting, as a sign she is getting close, but i havent seen pistils recede yet and the calyxes are not even swollen. I would guess 2 more weeks, which would make it 9 from flip. It sure had better pick it up though
I will try to measure wattage tomorrow too, that will help figure the gpw numbers a little as well, but its a bit early for that.
karr
Well-Known Member
Thanks man, its a ton of fun. Much more accessible to any grower as the space and setup required is just so minute.
karr
Well-Known Member
BIG UPDATE TIME!
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Hope you enjoy!
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Hope you enjoy!
karr
Well-Known Member
Yup just the Spectra 120. But there is a side note... I FINALLY got around to measuring my Spectra 120, and it turns out it pulls 170w pretty consistently. I dont imagine much more than 10w for the fans, so i figure 160w or so for just the light, but since its all in one, lets just call it 170.
So 170W is my benchmark, i was told it was around 180, so that was pretty close indeed.
So for quick math:
170 G would be 1gram per watt (obviously )
85 G would net me .5 g/w
42.5 G would land me at .25g/w
So this equals out to (rounded)
6 oz =1 g/w
3 oz =.5 g/w
1.5 oz =.25 G/w
I know grams per watt is not the best measurement of success, but its still a pretty good baseline.
If you go by the floor space measurement im at 14x22(in) OR 2.14 sq feet. this equals out to about .2 square meters (.2 m²)
comparing that to the Spec sheet from nirvana "Average yield: 400 - 500 (g/m² in SOG)" modified to equal the same area = 80-100 G/.2m²
So if i hit anywhere around 80-100 i will be doing the genetics justice, and netting over .5g per watt, which is good in any book, though closer to 1g/w would be fantastic, i really dont think this is the strain or conditions to do it.
Thanks for the support!
So 170W is my benchmark, i was told it was around 180, so that was pretty close indeed.
So for quick math:
170 G would be 1gram per watt (obviously
)85 G would net me .5 g/w
42.5 G would land me at .25g/w
So this equals out to (rounded)
6 oz =1 g/w
3 oz =.5 g/w
1.5 oz =.25 G/w
I know grams per watt is not the best measurement of success, but its still a pretty good baseline.
If you go by the floor space measurement im at 14x22(in) OR 2.14 sq feet. this equals out to about .2 square meters (.2 m²)
comparing that to the Spec sheet from nirvana "Average yield: 400 - 500 (g/m² in SOG)" modified to equal the same area = 80-100 G/.2m²
So if i hit anywhere around 80-100 i will be doing the genetics justice, and netting over .5g per watt, which is good in any book, though closer to 1g/w would be fantastic, i really dont think this is the strain or conditions to do it.
Thanks for the support!
DoctorCanna
Well-Known Member
I have many many grows with 3 versions of spectras, they have great build quality but has mike cracked the "code" if you will, certainly not based on the lights i have used of his, which include V1 and V2 spectra 290's and V2 100 watt ufo (which has a horrible led array from my research). Dont get me wrong they grow nice bud, but is it optimized and comparable to HID? No it is not!
I would wait to buy any of his lights until he has actual research proving why his array is the correct and best one to chose, as far as spectrum mixing that results in all the desirable effects we are looking for (Ex. Big dense buds/huge production of essential oils[THC]/quick growth/increased bud vs leaf growth/density.....). Until anyone releases convincing scientific evidence or proof, showing exposure to various spectrums and what that results in, and furthermore what mix of spectrums will optimize your marijuana plants traits, I would be skeptical of any lights on the market, not to mention they are way over priced. I have done my own research for the past year extensively on led's, what is needed for penetration, and more importantly what spectrums are necessary and result in what effect. Once my research is compiled and complete enough I will be releasing it to whoever would like to see it in the form of an Ebook, so look out, although this wont be for about 6 or 7 months probably, and who know someone else may have revealed their "proprietary knowledge" on the subject by then that might do this science justice.
Here is a pic i took yesterday to show you that im no crack pot fool, and everything I say is in direct correlation with first hand evidence/research, that I have personally carried out, and my number one issue is giving advice half assed so as not to clarify what i mean in the fullest sense, which many times results in confusion or downright slander, If Im going to give advice then i need to do so in a fashion that is complete and concise, which means having time, something I don't have, lol!
DoctorCanna
Well-Known Member
Those pictures are just gorgeous, and yes im sure they will continue to swell, def gunna be an O I hope maybe more, thanks the great close ups, very pretty.
Heres my current chop, to be taken tomorrow!
Heres my current chop, to be taken tomorrow!
karr
Well-Known Member
Im sorry to nit pick, but i really do hate hypocrisy, its pretty much my number 1 pet peeve.
All i'm saying here is that you state you hate half assed, unfounded advice, then you make a blanket statement that more spectrum is not better?
Ultimately im not about giving led spectrum advice as, like i said, there is just too much we don't know. I hold my beliefs and express them, but its up to the reader to take some responsibility and believe what they choose to, not everything.
Anyway, as i've said in other threads, i agree about mikes new hardware, i think his 2011 models have some serious kinks that need to be worked out and not worked around. I hear there is a dramatic spike in a specific red spectrum that is overloading plants in flower, which is why they seem to do alright in veg.
The light i have is not the 2011 model, its actually the predecessor to that, and its generally considered to be pretty damn good. A lot of people are very curious why he ever changed so drastically.
Anyway thanks for sharing your plants. What lights are they under?
Of all the lighting systems i have experimented with, i much prefer the Ceramic Metal Halide the most, it sure does grow some pretty product and does a pretty decent job at reproducing the full spectrum of the sun, especially considering the price. I have that light going over some Jock Horror along with some Aurora Indica then i have a 600hps going on my killing fields. My ideal light (somewhat conventional that is) would be a 1000w CMH, since i still feel the 400 lacks in penetration and density. A scrog is a great way to go with that light for sure, though as of current i have just been lsting it.
Anyway i would be surprised beyond belief if i ended up with a single z considering the weeks that remain and the fact that i have a colas that stretch down past the screen just waiting to fill out.
anyways thanks for the input.
All i'm saying here is that you state you hate half assed, unfounded advice, then you make a blanket statement that more spectrum is not better?
Ultimately im not about giving led spectrum advice as, like i said, there is just too much we don't know. I hold my beliefs and express them, but its up to the reader to take some responsibility and believe what they choose to, not everything.
Anyway, as i've said in other threads, i agree about mikes new hardware, i think his 2011 models have some serious kinks that need to be worked out and not worked around. I hear there is a dramatic spike in a specific red spectrum that is overloading plants in flower, which is why they seem to do alright in veg.
The light i have is not the 2011 model, its actually the predecessor to that, and its generally considered to be pretty damn good. A lot of people are very curious why he ever changed so drastically.
Anyway thanks for sharing your plants. What lights are they under?
Of all the lighting systems i have experimented with, i much prefer the Ceramic Metal Halide the most, it sure does grow some pretty product and does a pretty decent job at reproducing the full spectrum of the sun, especially considering the price. I have that light going over some Jock Horror along with some Aurora Indica then i have a 600hps going on my killing fields. My ideal light (somewhat conventional that is) would be a 1000w CMH, since i still feel the 400 lacks in penetration and density. A scrog is a great way to go with that light for sure, though as of current i have just been lsting it.
Anyway i would be surprised beyond belief if i ended up with a single z considering the weeks that remain and the fact that i have a colas that stretch down past the screen just waiting to fill out.
anyways thanks for the input.
DoctorCanna
Well-Known Member
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Lol, no i said that I have a problem with giving half assed advice.[/FONT]
DoctorCanna
Well-Known Member
Oh and i guess im very confused about how far into flower your current led plants are, oh well ill keep my mouth shut about predicting yield, haha, beautiful plants KARR, you have a true green thumb!
karr
Well-Known Member
I can assure you my thumb started out black. Here is a brief timeline from earliest to latest failures
Aeroponic setup - 3 plants dead
DWC hydro- 2 dead
soil- 3 dead
soil- harvested about 2g hahaah
then things turned around. I went to soil and used Osmocote plus (however you spell it) and just added water, kept it simple. from then i progressed to single, non-mix nutes, and have been rocking dyna-gro since. The plants above were grown in miracle grow, African violate (on the cheap its a really nice soil) ammended with OC+, which was a just add water approach.
You could fill books with what i dont know
DoctorCanna
Well-Known Member
Lol, I grow hydroponically, you might give it another try, really quite care free!
JamesBong007
Member
Honestly DoctorCanna, you talk out your ass.....save yourself. I'd actually like to see that LED knowledge guide you talk of though in the next 6-7 months. Seems like we know more legitimate information based on experience and simple facts than what you've been saying.
Anyways....Karr, that cola makes me want to run a side CMH. Amazing. I hope the PG260 throws down on my SCRoG like your spectra did.
Anyways....Karr, that cola makes me want to run a side CMH. Amazing. I hope the PG260 throws down on my SCRoG like your spectra did.
karr
Well-Known Member
I know, i love CMH, its like flowering with metal halide only with more intensity and density similar to hps. Its really a great union. Heres one more shot, i already posted it earlier, but man i cant stop haha.
Anyway, i am back to growing hydro. I have 3 aurora in a rainforest 66 aeroponic unit. Its basically a very very fine mist combined with a dwc system. The mist is super fine and some people even trim the roots to keep them from dipping into the water. The unit has some trouble with its internal rez heating up, so i found a 30m on 30m off time to help subdue the temps, frankly i was surprised they like that long of an off time, but MAN you should see these roots. Best roots i've ever had for certain.
Just be careful if you run CMH that you take an extra step before going to your flower room. Wear long sleeves, gloves, a hat, and sunglasses, and limit your exposure to the light. If possible dont come in when the light is on, treat it as though you would a uvb light, since some CMH bulbs are unshielded and pass a decent amount of UV rays. The plants love them at this level, but your skin might not in ten years, its best to just avoid the chance really. Note that some CMH bulbs are shielded and will not emit harmful uv rays, just check before you buy. You can look at the bulb itself and there is a code that will tell you.
Anyway, i am back to growing hydro. I have 3 aurora in a rainforest 66 aeroponic unit. Its basically a very very fine mist combined with a dwc system. The mist is super fine and some people even trim the roots to keep them from dipping into the water. The unit has some trouble with its internal rez heating up, so i found a 30m on 30m off time to help subdue the temps, frankly i was surprised they like that long of an off time, but MAN you should see these roots. Best roots i've ever had for certain.
Just be careful if you run CMH that you take an extra step before going to your flower room. Wear long sleeves, gloves, a hat, and sunglasses, and limit your exposure to the light. If possible dont come in when the light is on, treat it as though you would a uvb light, since some CMH bulbs are unshielded and pass a decent amount of UV rays. The plants love them at this level, but your skin might not in ten years, its best to just avoid the chance really. Note that some CMH bulbs are shielded and will not emit harmful uv rays, just check before you buy. You can look at the bulb itself and there is a code that will tell you.
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