botanistprime
Active Member
yeah i agree. side lights is more of an idea if i had money just to throw around. Im leaning towards staying with my HPS, but I'm really attracted to theses COBs
Someone Teach me LED please
- Thread starter botanistprime
- Start date
botanistprime
Active Member
thats the one thing I dont really know is maintenance. or better yet Lifespan of COBs. I'm used to bulb switches every 3mo
botanistprime
Active Member
Even the Timber Rep told me i should get T5s to supplement UVA/B. According to him they designed their square frames specifically to allow a T5 set up to be placed on the frame.
QuarksRSmall
Well-Known Member
For cobs there is not really any maintenance. They are rated at over 50,000 hours of use with almost no drop in efficacy. No bulb replacement or anything necessary.
botanistprime
Active Member
Nice thats what I was hoping for. Some rating similar to my TVs! lmao. 5 year warranty?? lol i wish
botanistprime
Active Member
Can anyone explain to me Color Temperature for COBs. whats the difference in ratings and whats best/desired?
QuarksRSmall
Well-Known Member
That is a subject for debate. It depends if you want separate lights for veg and flower or one that will do both for you. If you have separate veg and flower areas you have more options. Some folks kill it with 4k in veg and 3k in flower. Some folks opt for 3500k for the entire grow. Pretty much any combination will suffice but I am happy to defer to others that may be able to help you more. @CobKits @RainDan, @robincnn @Rahz would be some good people to discuss that with.
Rahz
Well-Known Member
I would use 3000K 90CRI for veg, flower, or full cycle unless I was in a situation where height was an issue. In that case I would use 4000K 80CRI for veg and 3000K 90CRI for flower. 3000K 70/80CRI or 3500K 80/90 CRI are also good full cycle, veg, flower options I think. Even 4000K 80/90CRI will do a good job in all circumstances.
Color temp basically describes the red/gree/blue ratios with lower K indicating more red and higher K indicating more blue/green. CRI as far as LED is concerned mostly involves shifting the red peak towards 630 rather than 600. The deeper reds will cause a bit more stretch in the veg stage which could be good or bad depending on what one is trying to accomplish.
TBH, we know a bit about the morphology under red/blue but it's not clear whether and how much of a yield difference there may be.
Color temp basically describes the red/gree/blue ratios with lower K indicating more red and higher K indicating more blue/green. CRI as far as LED is concerned mostly involves shifting the red peak towards 630 rather than 600. The deeper reds will cause a bit more stretch in the veg stage which could be good or bad depending on what one is trying to accomplish.
TBH, we know a bit about the morphology under red/blue but it's not clear whether and how much of a yield difference there may be.
Last edited:
QuarksRSmall
Well-Known Member
OMG you said his name. At least it was only once just don't say it two more times.
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
5x5 room assuming is your veg room can get by with (2) 260w QB304 kits
(8 ) 260w QB 304 kits would replace those (4) 1k lights
QB304 single goes for $75 so thats 20 of those = $1500
Slate 2's double are $36 x 10 so thats = $360
Meanwell HLG240h-C1050b are $61 x10 = $610
Wagos, stranded wire, waterproof connects, cords prolly get for about $100 at most
That is 5 individual (4) QB304 light panels that each replace 1000w SE HPS or MH that use 520w per. So 5200w cuts down to 2600w. Half the electricity, half the cooling loads which save even more electricity.
Frame for (1) light setup cost me $20 so theres an additional $100
No mercury and they last way longer. No brainer with the amount of electricity savings.
Total cost to upgrade both rooms = $2,670 and thats assuming no discounts on bulk quantity for the QB's and Slate 2 doubles, but there may not be considering they are hard to come by.
(8 ) 260w QB 304 kits would replace those (4) 1k lights
QB304 single goes for $75 so thats 20 of those = $1500
Slate 2's double are $36 x 10 so thats = $360
Meanwell HLG240h-C1050b are $61 x10 = $610
Wagos, stranded wire, waterproof connects, cords prolly get for about $100 at most
That is 5 individual (4) QB304 light panels that each replace 1000w SE HPS or MH that use 520w per. So 5200w cuts down to 2600w. Half the electricity, half the cooling loads which save even more electricity.
Frame for (1) light setup cost me $20 so theres an additional $100
No mercury and they last way longer. No brainer with the amount of electricity savings.
Total cost to upgrade both rooms = $2,670 and thats assuming no discounts on bulk quantity for the QB's and Slate 2 doubles, but there may not be considering they are hard to come by.
whitebb2727
Well-Known Member
I don't agree. It is an important part of the grow.
First it increases quality of buds and the buzz.
Second it helps prevent pm and mold.
First it increases quality of buds and the buzz.
Second it helps prevent pm and mold.
botanistprime
Active Member
I'm looking at 2 of these http://timbergrowlights.com/400-watt-vero29-v7-square-framework/ for the 5X5 Veg and 4 of these http://timbergrowlights.com/600-watt-vero29-v7-4x4-framework/ for Flower. the options for Color Temp are 3000, 3500, 4000 and 1750
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
$4754 vs what I told you do do for $2600
With yours you get 800w in veg vs 520w
And 2400w in flower vs 2080w
But still thats $1.48/w in COB vs $1/w QB
I dont have any experience with COBs, but from what I hear QB are better. More spread. Less issues with humidity.
botanistprime
Active Member
do you have links to purchase? the places i have found so far are sold out.
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Gonna have to wait for sure.
When they restock they sell out quick. Actually im regretting I told you this because im in the market to expand since I was so impressed with my tested purchase. Im trying to upgrade all my lights in flower.
Slate 2 doubles are in stock. If you are set on committing, which Iwouldnt be based on what I just said.
Test it out. Replace (1) 1000w HPS in flower with (4) qb 304's (2) slate2 doubles (2) meanwell drivers. You wont get the ballast discount on mouser but its only $4 per ballast so not huge.
Ballast in stock and heatsinks in stock. Just wait for the QB304s to restock. Not sure when that is. Ask robincnn.
When they restock they sell out quick. Actually im regretting I told you this because im in the market to expand since I was so impressed with my tested purchase. Im trying to upgrade all my lights in flower.
Slate 2 doubles are in stock. If you are set on committing, which Iwouldnt be based on what I just said.
Test it out. Replace (1) 1000w HPS in flower with (4) qb 304's (2) slate2 doubles (2) meanwell drivers. You wont get the ballast discount on mouser but its only $4 per ballast so not huge.
Ballast in stock and heatsinks in stock. Just wait for the QB304s to restock. Not sure when that is. Ask robincnn.
SoOLED
Well-Known Member
I dunno if QB's are better I still think a mix of the two is going to be very good.
botanistprime
Active Member
HAHAHAHA! Thanks though
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Thats just my opinion which is based off anothers results who I trust extremely well. @ttystikk
QB is easy to DIY. COB involves thermal pastes and it just doesnt seem as easy IMO.
There is also no denying that a single led that generates 3w is going to offer better spread than a single led that generates 100w
firsttimeARE
Well-Known Member
Some side colas on this plant I just harvested under 260w of QB. Was a shitty scrog and wasnt trained and hardly kept up with the pH and still pulled 0.8gpw. Nothing impressive, but ill get that strain to 1.2gpw easy with topping, better node developement and more attention to pH.
Was also chopped a week early due to bud rot.