I am working on a custom built cabinet design that is modular (breaks into several movable pieces). I intent to have one modular piece hold all the plumbing and gadgets. Hopefully I can get it worked out in the small space I will have.
Glad to see you peeking in.
I am working on a custom built cabinet design that is modular (breaks into several movable pieces). I intent to have one modular piece hold all the plumbing and gadgets. Hopefully I can get it worked out in the small space I will have.
Thanks for the encouragement Earl.
For CO2 to be really effective you need to not be exhausting the room. It would be easier to just put a pressure damper on so that when the room is not exhausting the intake closes... and when the exhaust kicks on the pressure pulls it open. The idea is to confine the co2. The only real way to do this is to air-cool the light and set up the room scrubber on an enviro controller. I wish I knew what i know now when i started building these cabinets. Live and learn...
with any size bulb. for example, you say your 400w bulb is 20 inches away from the center of the screen. it appears as tho your parabolic screen is roughly symmetrical meaning if you were to continue your screen around the bulb you would have a 40 inch circle with a bulb in the center. which would have the bulbs sphere aprrox 3.5 feet in diameter, which would mean someone wanting to build a cab would have to allow interior room for that sphere. now if you moved the screen closer to the bulb you would decrease the surface area of the screen unless you allowed the screen to wrap further around the aforementioned circle. So my thought is, if you claim you could triple the screen size, would you keep your parobolic curvature and wrap further around the bulb or would you increase the distance between bulb and screen? I would imagine you would hit a point where the plant would grow up even tho your light source is down in terms of gravity? I guess the possibilty exists that one could increase the depth of your cab 3 fold and place two more sets of screen, slanted at 22.5 degree angles to creat the bottom quadrant of a sphere, none of wchic would every rise above "level" with the bulb. whatever the case, I am cuirious what you think about the most efficent way to construct a cab with 3 times the screen space you have now and still keep the whole screen budding evenly.
Your welcome!
I am working on the whole lamp vs distance from screen. obviously my setup is limited by my space to the sides are closer to the lamp than 20" if they get that high. If I air-cooled my light I could get the light closer to the screen and it would be more the way your thinking with screen equa-distant from the lamp. The plant does grow up, no matter what.Thanks! There are lots of peeps with scrog journals on here. I have only been growing this way for about 1 to 1.5 yrs now, but I love it.
whats the idea for the auto feed? as far as basic design, air pump and displacing the water, or using a water pump?
Shack
They are still coming around from getting their roots to the rez. I have to feed huge in the N department for the first couple weeks of transplant. They are just starting to get a little darker green. They must be dark green before switching to 12/12.
Thanks! The drippers I am not sure of. I think they are unnecessary as the pump makes more psi than they can handle. But the dripper heads attach to the stakes really well so there ya have it... LOL. I tried dropping the GPH on the pump but even on the lowest it is too much pressure for the drippers to work at their rated drip rate... so in my setup it doesn't matter.
Thanks! and welcome.
