Some plants more yellow then other RO water do i need cal mag?

My plants are 3 weeks into budding and are starting to yellow up quite a bit some more then others. The one in the bottom left of the picture started to yellow up alot before i even started budding after some ferts the new growth is much greener. but most of the plant is real yellow.

During budding i have been giving 1/2 to 1 tbs of EJ grow 1 tbs of bloom and 5 ml cata and 1 time 5 ml of micro per gallon.

Sees like i am getting alot of yellowing for still using grow EJ. I want to cut it off N soon but plants look hungry for it.

I am using RO water I read that if you use Ro water you need to ad cal/meg supplement? I did add 2 tbs per gallon of dolomite lime to the fox farm part of my soil mix which is a source of cal/mag

Any thoughts on getting my plants a little more healthy looking?

Soil
40% fox farm ocean Forrest mix plus a 1-1/2TBsp of dolomite lime per gallon
40% Sunshine #4
20% chunky perlite

lights veg 1000 Mh Budding 2 1000 HPS

temp lights off 67F lights on 85F( have some new air cooled hoods on the way to bring down temp.

I am using earth juice ferts.

Bump for an answer

The yellowing problem has gotten alot worse. it is on all the plants now and much more leaves. my last feedings were

30ml bloom 5 ml cata per gallon
plain ro water
30 ml grow 30 ml bloom 5 ml cata

I stepped it up on the last feeding because 1 feeding with no grow and they went yellow fast. it has been two days since the last feeding and no change and no burn. have i not given them enough time or is there some sort of lock out?

I'm not the most experienced person on this, but this definitely just looks like N deficiency to me.

considering that you are in flowering as far as you are, i am also tempted to lean more towards a N deficiency.

if your useing ro water then you need cal-mag

that looks like nitrogen def

I will post some pics when i get home but it is about 10 times worse now then in those pics. I gave them a big dose of grow couple days ago hope it fixes it.

No, No not N..... Your to far in bloom to be adding big doses of N. Thats a cal issue so add 15ml of magic cal next feeding and follow that with another at the next. Then run 5ml the rest of the grow with your reg bloom nutes.... No more N as they dont need that now. They need more P and K at this point........Good luck

I see a ph issue too. Keep that ph at 6.2 for soil

Kruzty said:

No, No not N..... Your to far in bloom to be adding big doses of N. Thats a cal issue so add 15ml of magic cal next feeding and follow that with another at the next. Then run 5ml the rest of the grow with your reg bloom nutes.... No more N as they dont need that now. They need more P and K at this point........Good luck

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3 weeks in and thats too late for N? people generally use nutes up to around 2 weeks before harvest, and as far as i was told, N is a very important part of budding and takes precedence over P and K......

but iam no expert so ya, dont take my word for it.

I agree with KlosetKing. And I prefer a ph of 6.5 to 6.8 for soil.

Waggs said:

I agree with KlosetKing. And I prefer a ph of 6.5 to 6.8 for soil.

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i was thinking the same, but my guess is if you are within 6.2 and 6.8 you are probably fine. not that you could tell by my grow, its seeming my p.h. was wayyy off...

60 day life 32 into budding

The ph of my run off is 6.8 ill trow some cal-mag at them. How should i go about lowering the ph i already water with low ph water and nutes.

pH down will do the trick easily. Don't take the cheap way out, either. Buy real pH down.

During budding i have been giving 1/2 to 1 tbs of EJ grow 1 tbs of bloom and 5 ml cata and 1 time 5 ml of micro per gallon.....

Click to expand...

Whats your NPK ratio? Might be an unbalanced formula inducing a N lockout, The yellowing is a N def. You can try switching to a fertilizer higher in N.

Foliage production - Grow for the most amount of foliage you can going into the flowering response. Maintain those leaves in a green and healthy condition up until harvest, even if it means switching fertilizer to a high N value, like a 9-3-6.....

Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

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I am using earth juice so N is real low grow 2-1-1 bloom 0-1-1 . I fed today with cal-mag plus 2-0-0 5ml per gallon. I have GH ph down that i use when i water with no nuts. the run off always seems to be the same 6.8ph which i think it is fine. but is does look like a nute lockout because I am feeding and they keep turning yellow.

What should be my next feeding be?

is there a better way to test ph of the soil with my digital ph meter then the run off?


befor the cal mag it w
30ml grow per gallon
30 ml bloom per gallon
5 ml cata per gallon

i am currently looking into this myself due to what i think may be a pH issue. as far as i know, the reason your runoff is 6.8 is because the soil was acidic or alkaline enough to change it TO that, but doesn't necessarily mean that is IS that. grab a soil ph kit from somewhere and use it, from what people are telling me runoff isn't exactly the best way to test it.

I highly doubt the PH is an issue. PH'd water is usually short term effect if any in soil. As soil tends to be PH buffer. 6.8 is fine as long as it's not outrageous like 8.0+. 2-1-1 is you're problem, that's not going to support foliage production. Find a fertilizer with a higher value of N.

Soil grows react strange to cal/mag issues. My first several grows (learning curve) always got a cal/mag deficiancy smack in the middle of flowering (5-6 weeks), made me scratch my head in curiosity. I went on to add liquid cal/mag to feedings and to no avail, never a change. The problem is that cal/mag must bind to the soil before it is available to the plants for uptake. The only thing I have found that avoids cal/mag issues during flower time is to ammend the soil with dolomite lime before putting plants in it. Dolomite lime is cal/mag in the most organic form and soil grown plants love it.