StonerCol
Well-Known Member
No. Fuck off..
Sol-Skin, let the journey begin...
- Thread starter welight
- Start date
Now we're cooking!
I'm in agreement that there are more efficient ways. But I also think most are going to require more thought and knowledge than the average stoner is putting into their light build. Diy lighting has kind of transitioned into assembling some components and maybe needing a screwdriver and set of strippers. While I agree with you that Marks original description was not exactly on point, I think that his boards will fit the bill for the average guy on here wanting to take advantage of this tech. If in your case, or say an led nerd, wants to do better, I agree with you.
You typically don't have to leave the first page of the led thread to find at least 1 build by someone who doesn't have the slightest grasp of ohms law. And 10 people commenting that probably don't either. But you have to admit it's pretty cool that all of them will successfully build a working light. Maybe not as cool as one built by an electrical engineer with a big university research budget, but they'll grow.
I'll definitely keep an eye out for what you're working on, always cool to check out new stuff.
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
Nofucks
you have hit on something i have been hoping to solve
using 600 w cc/cv mean well hooked up parallel
after i hookup six of these panels i can visibly notice the last ones dimmer than the first three
so i take the other dc out cord from the driver and hook each one up to three panels
i cannot visibly see that any are dimmer now...
success?
....not totally
i bet that there is still less [current?..voltage?] making to the ends of the last panels even though its a cc/cv driver
is this correct ,why is this happening, and what can be dome about it..?
is it "just" the result of too long a path?
you have hit on something i have been hoping to solve
using 600 w cc/cv mean well hooked up parallel
after i hookup six of these panels i can visibly notice the last ones dimmer than the first three
so i take the other dc out cord from the driver and hook each one up to three panels
i cannot visibly see that any are dimmer now...
success?
....not totally
i bet that there is still less [current?..voltage?] making to the ends of the last panels even though its a cc/cv driver
is this correct ,why is this happening, and what can be dome about it..?
is it "just" the result of too long a path?
Shouldn't be difficult to do some Google work and calculate voltage drop for your conductor. Or take some voltage and current measurements. I read in a different thread you designed and spec'd your own boards for production right? Not being a dick, just assuming you would have the tools and already done this.
600 watts is a pretty good load. Probably wouldn't take much ti drag down a high current low voltage supply. But you should probably wait for the professionals opinion.
600 watts is a pretty good load. Probably wouldn't take much ti drag down a high current low voltage supply. But you should probably wait for the professionals opinion.
welight
Well-Known Member
correct
welight
Well-Known Member
There are always better ways of circuit design, what you suggest is good but does not make sense for our board design, I can throw a bucket of money at a design to make it all it can be but commercially becomes unrealistic
Cheers
Mark
welight
Well-Known Member
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Again, are you going to sphere test these boards in the future mark?
Don't concern yourself with the "electrical engineer", it's just Google kung fu..... his last account( Dr. Misunderstood), he was a crack smoking, prostitute loving , selling houses at a huge loss mofo....... at least he's upgrading his fake story every six months, that's something imo
Don't concern yourself with the "electrical engineer", it's just Google kung fu..... his last account( Dr. Misunderstood), he was a crack smoking, prostitute loving , selling houses at a huge loss mofo....... at least he's upgrading his fake story every six months, that's something imo
welight
Well-Known Member
Its cool PSUAGRO, I dont agree with him, but everyone has a view.Again, are you going to sphere test these boards in the future mark?
Don't concern yourself with the "electrical engineer", it's just Google kung fu..... his last account( Dr. Misunderstood), he was a crack smoking, prostitute loving , selling houses at a huge loss mofo....... at least he's upgrading his fake story every six months, that's something imo
Yes will be Sphere testing the boards but not until later next month
Cheers
Mark
bakedPotatoe
Active Member
And it seems i can get a trick today either with quotes....fml.....
Hi Mark. I been keeping a eye on the sol-skin page on your site and saw you have some new products up there now. Its a bit confusing when you have the same spectrum on all the boards even thou they have different diodes on them (kelvin wise) i guess the spectrum shown are the original 3000k/4000k/660nm spectrum you posted here? Are you gonna get spectrum measurements for all the different boards done? Information on recommended drivers would be nice and power guidelines like HLG have on their site for your boards would be excellent to see to.
will you stock heatsinks fro the boards?
Better documentation of the possibilities of your boards would make it easier for me to choose between the sol-skin boards and the QB boards. I think your boards are much better but since im missing information about your boards it feels like have to be a beta tester if i buy them........
Henrik
will you stock heatsinks fro the boards?
Better documentation of the possibilities of your boards would make it easier for me to choose between the sol-skin boards and the QB boards. I think your boards are much better but since im missing information about your boards it feels like have to be a beta tester if i buy them........
Henrik
OLD MOTHER SATIVA
Well-Known Member
Thanks
I was more interested what he would say
I now only drive three panels before I give the next three a fresh feed direct from the driver
I can take voltage readings if I went fishing less
But
I admit I am no electrical pro
But the panels are doing darn good
Growing
As well the strips are giving me bigger seedings than I have ever got
Leds r fun
NoFucks2Give
Well-Known Member
You say that but it does not appear to be true. I see zero load balancing. Nothing at all. I'm not saying you boards do not work well, they do not NEED protection from thermal runaway. Load balancing would be nice. But saying you have load balancing when you do not is deceptive bullshit.
Fact: Resistors CANNOT do load balancing.
I just wonder why you said you use "Load balancing resistors", and then cannot not adequately explain why either. And this response is just not true. You do nothing for balancing. You board would have more value if you did but no, balancing is a legitimate corner to cut. Many customers would rather pay a little less less for their grow light and pay for the consequential inefficiencies over time over time. I have no problem with that. I think your boards with the deep red are possibly the best boards in this Samsung PCB market. I do not like someone baffling buyers with bullshit rather than dazzling with brilliance. I continue with my stand that resistors cannot balance the load as you said you do. What else does that leave but you were full of shit when you said that?
If you cannot answer the simple question of how the load balancing resistors you spoke of balance the load, so I conclude you are just full of shit.
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NoFucks2Give
Well-Known Member
If that were true, which it is not, why the fuck would it be relevant?
NoFucks2Give
Well-Known Member
No the imbalance comes from the dynamic forward resistance of LEDs. There are many factors such as current and temperature that affect the forward resistance. There is a range in which current and temperature affects each individual LED in a string and it affects each one differently. The more LEDs in a string the more the probability there will be serious imbalances.
The only way to fix it is to control the current in each string to be equal to the current in the other strings. The best approach depends upon the amount of current flowing in the strings.
A resistor in series with each string will not change the dynamics of the LED's forward resistance. There are some very inexpensive ways to balance the current. When the current is under 350mA, the best method, in my opinion, is a CCR such as the On-Semi NSI50150ADT4G (see attached). If I had more details about you situation I would be happy to help you further. Number of strings, LED part numbers, the current in each string (expected or measured), and thermal management.
Even though there is plenty of technical literature (see attached) to prove, I ran an experiment to test this. Here are the results:
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NoFucks2Give
Well-Known Member
Correct, but the forward voltage is never identical. Adding resistance to the string will only increase the voltage but will do nothing to equalize them.
If you have 1 amp flowing through two strings and the Vf of one is 40v and the other is 39v, if you add a 5Ω resistor to each string the voltages become 45 and 44. Still not balanced. Just wasted watts.
NoFucks2Give
Well-Known Member
The solution in this case would be to use the correct power supply, not add voltage to the load with a resistor making it worse.
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NoFucks2Give
Well-Known Member
WTF is an "auxiliary circuit"? You have a constant current power supply and strings of LEDs or a constant voltage supply and a separate CC driver. There are no "auxiliary circuits".