Should i kill my plants and throw them to the garbage ?

Cvntcrusher said:

Guys is 17L container big enough to finish my grow? View attachment 4651873View attachment 4651874View attachment 4651877View attachment 4651878

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Doug Dawson said:

You should probably start your own thread bud but to answer your question, yes they are. That is about 4.7 gallons which you can house a huge plant in without any issues.

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Skyhound said:

i use algamic and calmag as prevention , i also use theire fullschedule twice a week divided in 2 waterings . remember my plants looked healthy , but its now day 96 of floration , thats 40 days above the schedule even if u give 2 weeks thats s 25 days , u cant look at healthy plant at this day , also what do u change to compensate that p and k unbalance

also i use ph up always , ph down rarely , whats the problem with that

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Kassiopeija said:

Well, I fertilize not according to their plan but look at the plants and then decide on the spot which bottles I pick. But BB allmix has a salinity of EC 2.2mS and is quite sharp.
I use Fishmix in veg or for a N source as its NPK is 6-2-4, whereas BB Grow is cool to usew in veg when you use their Lightmix as that one has much less P & K so BB Grows 4-3-6 fits well. Also this is a good flower formulae. Bio Bloom is 2-6-3.5 and I only add that with just a minimal dosage 1ml/l in order to prevent P-def.
Biobizz grows work better if you feed the plants with a alkaline water (medium hard - EC 0.4 - 0.6) containing some chalk. Because most of their products are acidic it's ok to feed neutral around pH 7. The breaking down of the fertilizer is going to introduce some acidity to the soil anyway...
Algamic is ok too if you have softwater or as leaf application, or to add some more micronutes when no further NPK is necessary.

The other products are stimulants and they can fuck up your grow if you mindlessly use them.

I have absolutely no clue why your buds don't make you high, you either have a non-drug chemotype or something locked out iron and manganese. Both are essential for cannabinoid development. But it doesn't look like...

Do you perhaps have a water analysis at your disposal?

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Skyhound said:

Im pretty sure nutrients [...] is not the problem

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Kassiopeija said:

I think heat has a much more heavy burden on flavour & terpenes and not on Cannabinoids as these are oily encaptured in the bulbs of the trichs. Also, hemp is a C3-sunplant that can tolerate heat up to 50°C (photosynthesis begins to throttle around 35°C and comes to a halt around 45°C). In its natural habitate - this state is oftentimes reached during full summer middaylight and these plants have developed tactics to being able to cope with it (actually trichs ARE is one of this method). I've also grown with much higher temps 35°C ambient + 600w HPS in a 4x4 and the sativas didn't even experience heatstress....

Is this perhaps a tissue culture derived plant?


BB doesn't publicise it's formulaes so we have no data to look into micronutes... I've written them numerous times but they didn't give in!

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Aussieaceae said:

Not to alarm, but have you double / triple checked the center of your colas?

Ime unseen bud rot looks just like that.

Hope I'm just mistaken.

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Skyhound said:

the flowers i tested and were a few didnt have any bud rot and i looked plenty with jewelers loup and microscope

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Skyhound said:

how is it possible after 100 days in flowering i dont have amber thrichomes and no high, this crop is destroyed but i need to know if it was the heat that took away the potency or if i did other mistake

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