Seeds that won't germinate
- Thread starter fredkern
- Start date
CrackerJax
New Member
Too much moisture....you are correct. like in a wet paper towel or a glass. Maybe you haven't had a fungus problem, that's great.
Still, there is absolutely no advantage to your method. Why bother? I go straight in and my germ rate is close to 100%. No muss, no fuss, no mumbo jumbo. No worries about transplanting newly sprouted seeds, which can be damaged easily.
How about just letting the seed do what it does best?
Thanks for all the help. Actually, while I have seen and agreed with much of the evidence for not germinating seeds outside of the medium that they are being grown in, I had tried putting them in moist sterilized soil with high atmospheric humidity, and after like five days, they still failed to germinate. My extensive germination trials were mostly just to see if they would germinate at all.
Anyway, I tried JohnyBtreed's method because it best complemented what I had already done. I placed the plate with the seed-laden paper towel on top of a compact fluorescent light fixture, which heated it significantly. About 70% of the seeds germinated. I think they just needed to be kept around like 90 degrees to germinate.
BTW, by chlorinated water, I meant regular tap water.
Also, just some observations from my various trials:
-the seeds in the cups of water with no chlorine fungused in about two days
-the seeds in cups with some miracle grow fungused after four or five days; however, they sank faster initially
-having the cups of water in a heat bath did not seem to affect how quickly the seeds absorbed water and sank
Once again, thanks a lot for all of your (collective) input.
Anyway, I tried JohnyBtreed's method because it best complemented what I had already done. I placed the plate with the seed-laden paper towel on top of a compact fluorescent light fixture, which heated it significantly. About 70% of the seeds germinated. I think they just needed to be kept around like 90 degrees to germinate.
BTW, by chlorinated water, I meant regular tap water.
Also, just some observations from my various trials:
-the seeds in the cups of water with no chlorine fungused in about two days
-the seeds in cups with some miracle grow fungused after four or five days; however, they sank faster initially
-having the cups of water in a heat bath did not seem to affect how quickly the seeds absorbed water and sank
Once again, thanks a lot for all of your (collective) input.
NeoAnarchist
Well-Known Member
ur very rite Crackerjax, but at the same time, wrong, the sucess rate will be high regardless, unless there is something wrong with the seed itself, true u can just pop the seed in the ground and it will sprout, but u can just put the seed in dry ground and expect it to grow. u would atleast need moisture, transplanting the seeds isnt that big of a deal, u just dont want to germ them for a long period so the tap root of the seed is sticking out an inch or more, germination is a great idea, to see the sucess rate, to help with the amount of plants the grower is needing, if u have great seeds, then this isnt a must, but if u have a bagseed, u will want to know if the seed is dead or still active. I dont claim to be a Horticulturalist, but i would most certainly consider germination in order to keep things simple and not have to worry about how long the seed is going to take or if it will even grow. Ill know for sure. But i do see your point, and its a great point.
LUDACRIS
New Member
HOW CAN I TELL IF MY BAGSEEDS ARE HEALTHY.
Fresh seeds have a waxy glimmer and a hard, intact shell.
Colours range from a buff through a dark brown, and from light grey to almost black colours. Often seeds are mottled with brown or black spots, or lines on a lighter field.
Green or whitish seeds are usually immature and will germinate feebly if at all.
Shiny, very dark brown or black seeds often mean the contents are fermented and the embryo is dead. Fermented seeds crush easily with finger pressure and are hollow or dusty inside.
Brick or compressed cannabis seeds must be checked as seeds that are bruised or crushed are not viable.
LUDACRIS.
Fresh seeds have a waxy glimmer and a hard, intact shell.
Colours range from a buff through a dark brown, and from light grey to almost black colours. Often seeds are mottled with brown or black spots, or lines on a lighter field.
Green or whitish seeds are usually immature and will germinate feebly if at all.
Shiny, very dark brown or black seeds often mean the contents are fermented and the embryo is dead. Fermented seeds crush easily with finger pressure and are hollow or dusty inside.
Brick or compressed cannabis seeds must be checked as seeds that are bruised or crushed are not viable.
LUDACRIS.
CrackerJax
New Member
Don't want to germ a long time? A week is too long? Most all of my seeds pop within 4-5 days. If you have good viable seeds...there are NO worries. Again while i am glad you have never had trouble moving a taproot, others post about it all the time.... so unnecessary. By the way, I am a horticulturalist. Keep it simple, keep it green.
LUDACRIS
New Member
i never looked in to chroline facts because i trust and believe what you say(i always respect your opinions and facts) but i got thinking and i decided to look at the facts you posted for my own knowledge and after some research i found the following.i hope this helps my explanation and its all new to me just like i said i have never had a plant problem related to chlorine and thats why i said what i said.
my apiologies.
anyway here is what i found.
Chlorine
Chloride is involved in the evolution of oxygen in the photosynthesis process and is essential for cell division in roots and leaves. Chlorine raises the cell osmotic pressure and affects stomata regulation and increases the hydration of plant tissue. Levels less than 140 ppm are safe for most plants. Chloride sensitive plants may experience tip or marginal leaf burn at concentrations above 20 ppm.
Chlorine Deficiency
Wilted chlorotic leaves become bronze in color. Roots become stunted and thickened near tips. Plants with chlorine deficiencies will be pale and suffer wilting.
Chlorine Toxicity
Burning of leaf tip or margins. Bronzing, yellowing and leaf splitting. Reduced leaf size and lower growth rate.
LUDACRIS.
la9
Well-Known Member
No apologies needed, let's go burn one .......i never looked in to chroline facts because i trust and believe what you say(i always respect your opinions and facts) but i got thinking and i decided to look at the facts you posted for my own knowledge and after some research i found the following.i hope this helps my explanation and its all new to me just like i said i have never had a plant problem related to chlorine and thats why i said what i said.
my apiologies.
anyway here is what i found.
Chlorine
Chloride is involved in the evolution of oxygen in the photosynthesis process and is essential for cell division in roots and leaves. Chlorine raises the cell osmotic pressure and affects stomata regulation and increases the hydration of plant tissue. Levels less than 140 ppm are safe for most plants. Chloride sensitive plants may experience tip or marginal leaf burn at concentrations above 20 ppm.
Chlorine Deficiency
Wilted chlorotic leaves become bronze in color. Roots become stunted and thickened near tips. Plants with chlorine deficiencies will be pale and suffer wilting.
Chlorine Toxicity
Burning of leaf tip or margins. Bronzing, yellowing and leaf splitting. Reduced leaf size and lower growth rate.
LUDACRIS.
