Seed Making made easy - Selfing a plant

Budzbuddha said:

Another option for those looking for interesting experimenting in autos.

Sensi seeds have straight Ruderalis seeds to grow ...... Short and fast but low THC.
However , say you spray that whole plant down for pollen THEN use that RUDY pollen on a strong reg you have .
You end up with a 50/50 shot for autos in that mix. There will be other performance qualities to “ weed “ thru but who knows you may get that one interesting cut that you can self and continue !

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This is not accurate . when you cross an auto with a photo all the seeds will be photo period at f1 . then if those seeds are bred to f2 only 25 % of those seeds will be auto flowers .

Correct ... And that first batch will be the “ first offspring “ F1 and as you continue the breeding looking for the recessive auto trait.

Here is alpine cookies ( CS ) reg F1 ..... ( shouldn’t have gave away too many ) .
And HSO BD ( S1 ) selfed Autos ( fem to fem ) .... these show obvious variations in growth but will be looking to mash up these together. Not with the alpine but another auto set I have .

F2 white rhino ( gifted to me ) and may use for something later on.



But honestly prefer Selfing Autos more than screwing with regs. Med container has Mendo regs.

Can I fem seeds

@Budzbuddha what sized bottle did you buy?

In the UK there are options for 100ml or 500ml on Amazon. It would be daft to but the 500ml if the 100ml would last for years, but also daft to buy the 100ml if it lasted 1 time if for a few quid more I could get the 500ml.

Thinking of getting something like this which is 45ppm

Sorry can I use feminized seeds for this or do they have to be Regs and find the female?

Budzbuddha said:

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Available at amazon .... i originally used Tiresas mist BUT got better results from silver mountain ( less spraying / faster pod growth ) . So after using up the Tiresas , I kept the small spray bottle and refilled it with silver mountain. Any travel size pump spray bottle will work too. Just store your CS in a dark , cool place as light degrades the CS .

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Can I use this on a female plant/clone? How many times do I spray before you see results?

Ok she’s finally throwing some sex pubes .... under 12/12.

I am not too concerned about her initial structure ( side branching ) because I’m gonna blast at least the lower 2 or 3 node areas
for making lady nuts. I am going to let top cola area begin to set up ( preflower ) a bit more BEFORE the CS application.
I want a flower site to form properly before pollinating. Again NONE OF THIS PLANT will be consumed.

After proper pollination of top , side / lowers will be pretty much cleaned off so plant can resume growing seeds.
And if I have a bit of pollen left ( pods ) I may store for later crossing.

TOP



I don’t remember if I mentioned this a REGULAR strain not auto. 12/12 would have made an auto trigger earlier and been
already sprayed and set. Because I had to wait until “ mature “ it finally showed the pistils.

Starting to flower up ....

Soon The spraying will begin.

Bout to make me some S1 WW seeds... or try.. simply put again.. good looking out

Spray Day .......

This plant is a bit larger than the solo cup version I normally do , mostly because it’s a regular strain and some growth had to be done before it became sexually active ( sex ) from 12/12. Autos are a bit easy either on a host plant prior to preflower or in a solo after about 2 weeks of growth in cup. Autos take about 35 days to begin preflower , that is why I begin around week 2 or 3 Of growth.

Back to this regular KKP strain. Again it was started in 12/ 12 from germ. It’s structure is different than under normal veg lighting but that is ok because she has one job ..... make beans !

Plant has sexed and now we begin.

I used a styro foam plate cut with a slit and hole to act as a COLLAR for spraying lower nodes. The area above collar will be the
flowering area to be pollinated once lower nodes start to throw pods. I target the node areas only . I am using SILVER MOUNTAIN
50 ppm Colloidal Silver suspension. I am also using an old Tiresas Mist spray bottle ( now refilled with silver mountain ).

I do 2 applications PER DAY ( lights on and at lights off ) for “ approximately “ 10-21 days ..... sometimes it happens quickly , but will stop spraying once pods begin to form. Top cola area will continue normal bloom . Once pods begin to show that they might begin to split .... I pull plant out and finish it with a flouro lamp. Collar will then be placed on base of stalk ( to collect pollen if pods dump ) .

Once they do , I slip a large clear plastic bag over plant and shake plant within. Any left over pollen will be scraped / dried for storage in a small container , then stored. Once I feel I got an appropriate pollination........ I remove the remaining sacks from lowers ( leaving fans ) and spritz with water to null any remaining pollen.

Plant will continue BACK into Flowering lights for about the next 6 -8 weeks to mature seed growth.
And near that time any seed pods that are exposed and splitting , Collar goes back on below flower to catch any “ drops “.

Welp ... we got LADY NUTS !

Great thread. I've seen a few anecdotes/opinions that selfing autos is not a 'good idea' and it's better to do it with photoperiod only?

One person (on another forum) mentioned that when you self autos, 25% of the resulting seeds would be hermie. Someone else said the seeds from selfed autos will result in plants with more mutations in general, which wouldn't happen with photoperiod.

Do you have anything to say about this or are those just myths/rumors in your experience?

omg77 said:

Great thread. I've seen a few anecdotes/opinions that selfing autos is not a 'good idea' and it's better to do it with photoperiod only?

One person (on another forum) mentioned that when you self autos, 25% of the resulting seeds would be hermie. Someone else said the seeds from selfed autos will result in plants with more mutations in general, which wouldn't happen with photoperiod.

Do you have anything to say about this or are those just myths/rumors in your experience?

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That really dont make sense to me, I dont see a trait popping up that wasnt there previously. I will say it's hard to self an auto because everything has to happen on this one small plant in a short amount of time because you really cant take clones of autos, some will stay in veg under 24hrs light but I'm not sure any of the ruderalis based plants will, I think thats more toward the short season plants like dr greenthumb offers. I have selfed an auto and got a few mature seeds but it's better to use two seperate females and stagger them just right because autos are so quick.

For anyone looking to "preserve" genetics using this method, just know that there is no guarantee a selfed plant will produce seeds 100% the same as it's parent. You will see a lot of dominant traits come out in its offspring and those hard to obtain recessive traits that people breed for will often go away (i.e. super high THC%, node spacing, fast flowering period and sometimes even yield).

To guarantee same traits as the parent, you will often need to back cross (BX) at least 4-6 times. This makes preserving genetics around a 1 year project if you include time to pop seeds. It's easier to just keep clones of your favorite strains indefinitely, unless you are a commercial breeder doing it for profit.

420_Graze_It said:

For anyone looking to "preserve" genetics using this method, just know that there is no guarantee a selfed plant will produce seeds 100% the same as it's parent. You will see a lot of dominant traits come out in its offspring and those hard to obtain recessive traits that people breed for will often go away (i.e. super high THC%, node spacing, fast flowering period and sometimes even yield).

To guarantee same traits as the parent, you will often need to back cross (BX) at least 4-6 times. This makes preserving genetics around a 1 year project if you include time to pop seeds. It's easier to just keep clones of your favorite strains indefinitely, unless you are a commercial breeder doing it for profit.

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Idk if it true but I've read or heard other breeders say backcrossing more than 3 or 4 generations can have negative effects. I had always thought this might be the reason you see a lot of breeders stop at bx2 or bx3, Then start their line breeding.

boybelue said:

Idk if it true but I've read or heard other breeders say backcrossing more than 3 or 4 generations can have negative effects. I had always thought this might be the reason you see a lot of breeders stop at bx2 or bx3, Then start their line breeding.

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That's the difference between quality breeders and pollen chuckers. Ever order from a company like Crop King Seeds? You'll notice 3-4 drastically different phenos in a 5 seed pack. Very unstable genetics. Every plant grown from seed will have slightly unique traits, but they shouldn't be that different.

Your options for stable genetics are either backcrossing or selective breeding, both require quite a few generations.

Cheers

420_Graze_It said:

That's the difference between quality breeders and pollen chuckers. Ever order from a company like Crop King Seeds? You'll notice 3-4 different phenos in a 5 seed pack. Very unstable genetics.

Your options for stable genetics are either backcrossing or selective breeding, both require quite a few generations.

Cheers

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Do you feel like backcrossing say 5 or 6 generations has any negative effects? I generally like to cube my clone onlys or something I'm trying to preserve and get into seed form.

boybelue said:

Do you feel like backcrossing say 5 or 6 generations has any negative effects? I generally like to cube my clone onlys or something I'm trying to preserve and get into seed form.

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I've only spent time on it twice and it produced seeds nearly identical to the clone. Since it takes so long my reason was to preserve genetics and lower plant count for legal reasons. They are in a freezer until I need some (about 300 seeds). I pop 2 or 3 each year to check germination rates.