Secret Jardin Lodge L90 Setup Help

Sheikster403 · Aug 25, 2016

This will be my first ever grow. Due to living situations, I had to settle on the Secret Jardin L90.

Overall dimensions are 90x60x135cm (3x2x4.5ft) It is partitioned into 3 different areas. The main growing area will be 60x60x135 (2x2x4.5ft)

I've done quite a bit of research and there's so much out there it's hard to decide what to do as far as light and ventilation for the main 60x60 area. For the smaller compartments I'm going to run a couple of CFLs.

What size and kind of light should I use for the 60x60cm area ? I plan on growing either 2 autos or 1 regular plant. Also, will a 4 inch inline fan with carbon filter and a couple of clip on fans be sufficient for ventilation. The tent will be located in my garage which is located in Texas.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Sheikster403 · Aug 25, 2016

Anyone?

coreywebster · Aug 25, 2016

I would imagine a 250w hps would work well in the flower compartment. So would a 200-250w cob led light.
Your budget and ambient temp will likely dictate the way forward. If It were me and budget were not an issue then I would go with the second option. You been in Texas I imagine it can get pretty hot so the cob led would be a better option for less heat.
A good 4" extractor fan should be fine for the space but that is an interesting design of tent. I would think the idea is a flowering chamber, a veg area and a clone area. Which would mean at least the main chamber has to be light proof from the other two smaller chambers. That been the case its going to need extraction on both sides. So you could bump up to a 5" with thermostat and turn it down if temps allow. You may have to complicate things by using a splitter to divide the extraction. But because one side requires a lot more than the other you may be better using two splitters to create 3 ducts, dividing your air flow into 3 and using 2 in the flower chamber and the 3rd in your other compartment.
You can have your fan outside your tent with ducts coming in and save a lot of height or your fan inside but that would mean a lot of wasted space with the Y splitters and ducting leading back out and into your other compartment.
You could of cause go down the route of two separate fans, one for each area. It looks like the smaller areas are connected and just divided up by a shelf.
If you choose to go down the auto route then you are kind of making the 3 section tent a bit redundant, or at least that's the way I see it.

purplehays1 · Aug 25, 2016

Sheikster403 said:
This will be my first ever grow. Due to living situations, I had to settle on the Secret Jardin L90.

Overall dimensions are 90x60x135cm (3x2x4.5ft) It is partitioned into 3 different areas. The main growing area will be 60x60x135 (2x2x4.5ft)

I've done quite a bit of research and there's so much out there it's hard to decide what to do as far as light and ventilation for the main 60x60 area. For the smaller compartments I'm going to run a couple of CFLs.

What size and kind of light should I use for the 60x60cm area ? I plan on growing either 2 autos or 1 regular plant. Also, will a 4 inch inline fan with carbon filter and a couple of clip on fans be sufficient for ventilation. The tent will be located in my garage which is located in Texas.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

I see a couple things that may be issues. One with 3 compartments you will not want to run autos, you will want to have a perpetual system where u have one plant vegging one flowering and a set of clones to get your next veg. As one plant flowers the next veg's so that you have a nice big plant to put into flower each time (every 10 weeks about). I have a 2x2x5 tent i flower in and am able to grow quite a bit of weed with a system just like this. I use a separate little space to veg i use T5 strips and i run a 450w HPS in the flower tent. This 450 watt is overkill and a 250w is probably plenty for the space. Cooling a 400w in my 2x2x5 tent is a little bit of a challenge, i use a 4" vortex fan that is ducted to the hood and ventilates the entire tent out through the hood across the bulb. I have 2 passive air intakes at the bottom of the tent and the air exhausts through a hole at the top into my attic i lkive in San Diego and i run the air conditioning when its hot, so my passive is never over like 80 degrees. In a garage in texas i see a major heat problem. Even with a 250w you will not be able to grow well during the summer in texas pulling in passive air over 90 degrees. Unless you can somehow find a way to have the garage air conditioned you may have a few months of the year u have to just not grow, a tent this small is not going to be able to fit an air conditioner and if its 90 in the garage it will be 110+ in the tent i think.

Sheikster403 · Aug 25, 2016

coreywebster said:
I would imagine a 250w hps would work well in the flower compartment. So would a 200-250w cob led light.
Your budget and ambient temp will likely dictate the way forward. If It were me and budget were not an issue then I would go with the second option. You been in Texas I imagine it can get pretty hot so the cob led would be a better option for less heat.
A good 4" extractor fan should be fine for the space but that is an interesting design of tent. I would think the idea is a flowering chamber, a veg area and a clone area. Which would mean at least the main chamber has to be light proof from the other two smaller chambers. That been the case its going to need extraction on both sides. So you could bump up to a 5" with thermostat and turn it down if temps allow. You may have to complicate things by using a splitter to divide the extraction. But because one side requires a lot more than the other you may be better using two splitters to create 3 ducts, dividing your air flow into 3 and using 2 in the flower chamber and the 3rd in your other compartment.
You can have your fan outside your tent with ducts coming in and save a lot of height or your fan inside but that would mean a lot of wasted space with the Y splitters and ducting leading back out and into your other compartment.
You could of cause go down the route of two separate fans, one for each area. It looks like the smaller areas are connected and just divided up by a shelf.
If you choose to go down the auto route then you are kind of making the 3 section tent a bit redundant, or at least that's the way I see it.

Thanks for the reply. I haven't gotten the tent so I didn't visually see the problem of having the second compartment needing to have its own exhaust system. Another option may be using the whole tent instead of the separate compartments. But that would push times in between harvests further apart.

The reason I picked autos is because I figured a 60x60 space for flowering was too small for regular plants. I've never grown either so it was really just an assumption.

My budget for a light is about 200. I've been looking into a Galaxy Hydro 300W. I'm not familiar with cob LED.

Sheikster403 · Aug 25, 2016

purplehays1 said:
I see a couple things that may be issues. One with 3 compartments you will not want to run autos, you will want to have a perpetual system where u have one plant vegging one flowering and a set of clones to get your next veg. As one plant flowers the next veg's so that you have a nice big plant to put into flower each time (every 10 weeks about). I have a 2x2x5 tent i flower in and am able to grow quite a bit of weed with a system just like this. I use a separate little space to veg i use T5 strips and i run a 450w HPS in the flower tent. This 450 watt is overkill and a 250w is probably plenty for the space. Cooling a 400w in my 2x2x5 tent is a little bit of a challenge, i use a 4" vortex fan that is ducted to the hood and ventilates the entire tent out through the hood across the bulb. I have 2 passive air intakes at the bottom of the tent and the air exhausts through a hole at the top into my attic i lkive in San Diego and i run the air conditioning when its hot, so my passive is never over like 80 degrees. In a garage in texas i see a major heat problem. Even with a 250w you will not be able to grow well during the summer in texas pulling in passive air over 90 degrees. Unless you can somehow find a way to have the garage air conditioned you may have a few months of the year u have to just not grow, a tent this small is not going to be able to fit an air conditioner and if its 90 in the garage it will be 110+ in the tent i think.

Texas will be over 90 for about 1/3 of the year. I might look into installing a window unit in the garage since I have a window. Maybe insulate the inside of the garage door.

I chose autos because I figured the space was right for them and not regular plants. What would you say your yield is per harvest? I'm growing for personal only and just would like to yield as much as possible per year. What kind of training do you/can you do in that size space?

purplehays1 · Aug 25, 2016

Sheikster403 said:
Thanks for the reply. I haven't gotten the tent so I didn't visually see the problem of having the second compartment needing to have its own exhaust system. Another option may be using the whole tent instead of the separate compartments. But that would push times in between harvests further apart.

The reason I picked autos is because I figured a 60x60 space for flowering was too small for regular plants. I've never grown either so it was really just an assumption.

My budget for a light is about 200. I've been looking into a Galaxy Hydro 300W. I'm not familiar with cob LED.

I suggest u buy a secret jardin 2'x2'x5' (ft) and a 2 bulb 2 ft t5 to veg. The veg area doesn't need to be contained unless u are worried about people seeing plants in your garage. Just leave the t5's on all the time and it will be enough for clones and a vegging plant or 2.

purplehays1 · Aug 25, 2016

Sheikster403 said:
Texas will be over 90 for about 1/3 of the year. I might look into installing a window unit in the garage since I have a window. Maybe insulate the inside of the garage door.

I chose autos because I figured the space was right for them and not regular plants. What would you say your yield is per harvest? I'm growing for personal only and just would like to yield as much as possible per year. What kind of training do you/can you do in that size space?

Auto's will not yield you anywhere near as much or as consistent quality as photos.

I generally train my plant from the beginning by topping and then pinching as they begin to flower. I just keep a very even canopy across the entire 2x2 tent, if one branch gets too tall it gets pinched and folded. I grow in one 30 gal smart pot about half full of coco that takes up the entire 2x2 area and is about 7 inches tall. Height is a huge issue in this tiny tent and you want as much root space as possible. You will not be able to grow sativas, and must be very mindful of letting a plant get too tall both in veg and during the stretch. Your HPS light will take up at least 8 inches, your pot another 6-8 inches, and the plant needs about 8 inches from a HPS, so the plant only gets to be 3 feet tall.

Sheikster403 · Aug 25, 2016

purplehays1 said:
Auto's will not yield you anywhere near as much or as consistent quality as photos.

I generally train my plant from the beginning by topping and then pinching as they begin to flower. I just keep a very even canopy across the entire 2x2 tent, if one branch gets too tall it gets pinched and folded. I grow in one 30 gal smart pot about half full of coco that takes up the entire 2x2 area and is about 7 inches tall. Height is a huge issue in this tiny tent and you want as much root space as possible. You will not be able to grow sativas, and must be very mindful of letting a plant get too tall both in veg and during the stretch. Your HPS light will take up at least 8 inches, your pot another 6-8 inches, and the plant needs about 8 inches from a HPS, so the plant only gets to be 3 feet tall.

That's unfortunate because I favor Sativas. What kind of difference in yield are we talking here?

purplehays1 · Aug 25, 2016

Sheikster403 said:
Texas will be over 90 for about 1/3 of the year. I might look into installing a window unit in the garage since I have a window. Maybe insulate the inside of the garage door.

I chose autos because I figured the space was right for them and not regular plants. What would you say your yield is per harvest? I'm growing for personal only and just would like to yield as much as possible per year. What kind of training do you/can you do in that size space?

I get between .5 and 1g a watt from my 400w hps every 9-10 weeks depending on strain. If i had a 3x3 tent it would be 1g/w easy every time but my 400w is too big for a 2x2 area and just cant be used to max potential in the tiny tent. With a 250w i bet u can get 200g every 10 weeks if u find a good strain and do everything right.

purplehays1 · Aug 25, 2016

Sheikster403 said:
That's unfortunate because I favor Sativas. What kind of difference in yield are we talking here?

ya u need a taller tent to grow sativas, was there a reason you had selected such a short tent? With a 7 ft tall tent you could grow anything you want.

purplehays1 · Aug 25, 2016

my tent is in a little closet that clsoes so it has to be short, i figure in your garage u have a 8ft ceiling if u wanted a taller tent im sure they exist.

purplehays1 · Aug 25, 2016

Sheikster403 said:
That's unfortunate because I favor Sativas. What kind of difference in yield are we talking here?

Oh ya forgot to say u wont need day temps to be below like 90 because u run the lights at night because its cooler and energy is cheaper. And the diff between autos and photos is huge not just in yield but energy cost.

purplehays1 · Aug 25, 2016

I sometimes run an auto under my t5's along with my vegging plant. Autos like 18+ hrs a light a day, that means running your HPS during peak hours which is fucking expensive, energy at least in CA is a lot cheaper at night. Autos also do not take to training nearly as well. They get 4 weeks or so of veg and then they flower so if you want to train them you are taking away valuable growth every time you top/pinch them. Photo strains you can straight beat the shit out of until they are the shape you want and then give em a week or two to recover and they good to go.

Sheikster403 · Aug 25, 2016

purplehays1 said:
Oh ya forgot to say u wont need day temps to be below like 90 because u run the lights at night because its cooler and energy is cheaper. And the diff between autos and photos is huge not just in yield but energy cost.

Explain the difference in energy cost. Cheaper for autos since shorter flower time?

Sheikster403 · Aug 25, 2016

purplehays1 said:
ya u need a taller tent to grow sativas, was there a reason you had selected such a short tent? With a 7 ft tall tent you could grow anything you want.

I could but then it sticks out like a sore thumb to my kids and anyone who happens to see or come in my garage. I got this sized tent because it fits on a wire shelf that I use for storage on a side wall. Just blends in.

purplehays1 · Aug 25, 2016

Photo strains flower udner 12 hours of darkness. SO you only run the big expensive lights (HPS) for 12 hours a day, and i run them from 6 pm to 6 am (off peak hours so energy is cheaper). Auto strains flower under up to 24 hrs a day of light.

purplehays1 · Aug 25, 2016

Sheikster403 said:
That's unfortunate because I favor Sativas. What kind of difference in yield are we talking here?

You could do autos and it would be easier, but you would get much less yield, like 1/3 or less. Autos u would just need 1 HPS light, one single compartment tent.

coreywebster · Aug 25, 2016

Just to add to what purple is saying, regular fem plants are far easier to train, autos don't like to be stressed. Regualr plants can be manipulated in many ways. Kept short, bent, tied, topped, scrogged ect.

This light here would do for 2.5ft x 2.5ft and would creat a lot less heat than a 250w hps and likely do just as well on yield.
Its over your budget though. It would create 75 heat watts. A 250hps would create around 162 heat watts.
http://www.tastyled.com/product-p/t2-2100.htm

purplehays1 · Aug 25, 2016

coreywebster said:
Just to add to what purple is saying, regular fem plants are far easier to train, autos don't like to be stressed. Regualr plants can be manipulated in many ways. Kept short, bent, tied, topped, scrogged ect.

This light here would do for 2.5ft x 2.5ft and would creat a lot less heat than a 250w hps and likely do just as well on yield.
Its over your budget though. It would create 75 heat watts. A 250hps would create around 162 heat watts.
http://www.tastyled.com/product-p/t2-2100.htm

ya if u can afford LED's then you have another whole foot of space because the lights are only a few inches tall and the plants can be much closer without burning up. This will also help with your ambient heat issue because LED's generally are easier to cool.

Sheikster403 · Aug 25, 2016

purplehays1 said:
You could do autos and it would be easier, but you would get much less yield, like 1/3 or less. Autos u would just need 1 HPS light, one single compartment tent.

What do you think a yield of 2-3 autos in that tent with no compartments. So 90x60x137 overall dimensions

Secret Jardin Lodge L90 Setup Help

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