Second Grow Stunts to zero at about week 3-4. Leaves yellow from the top down and curling
- Thread starter DaveT
- Start date
Billy the Mountain
Well-Known Member
True, but the rockwool should always be above the waterline.
Things would have been even worse had the cube been submerged in the nute solution as you seem to be suggesting.
As a recovering dwc grower, OP's problem is almost assuredly a far too high EC for a young plant.
Things would have been even worse had the cube been submerged in the nute solution as you seem to be suggesting.
As a recovering dwc grower, OP's problem is almost assuredly a far too high EC for a young plant.
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
Theres good info then there's bad info....
may be the lighting in the pictures, but roots actually look way more white than brown. All water adds are RO water clear of pathogens. Water is circulated through an intense UV light chamber at around 1 gal/min. The 4 gallons in the pail see the UV about every 4 minutes. Water is crystal clear. I did decontaminate with H2O2 ~500+ppm when changing the water and adding the nutrients a few days back. Put plant back in when I had reduced the H2O2 to ~20ppm.
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
Please, if you don't know, then dont confuse newbies with bad Info. This isn't the first case I've seen and I'm trying to be as nice as possible.
It's great you want to chime in, that's how a forum works but it's clear that you don't have the knowledge needed to help someone else out so all you're doing is making this guy do even more wrong stuff.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Maybe drop the DWC for now - Run simple bagged medium grows - less headache.
Precharged potting mixes will carry all the feeding upfront ( for weeks ) on basic tap water. Then as grow progresses - minor dry fertilizer topdressing.
Especially if this a second grow for you.
Precharged potting mixes will carry all the feeding upfront ( for weeks ) on basic tap water. Then as grow progresses - minor dry fertilizer topdressing.
Especially if this a second grow for you.
Just looked up what DWC means. I have done several without incident and have built several chambers to do so. It's just been the past few that have had this problem. I now have a simple 5 gallon bucket with ~4 gallons water. Last plant that looked like this I terminate, planted in my garden, and in a few weeks it recovered and was growing like a weed. I'm still trying to figure out what is shutting everything down growth wise. TDS climbs from around 30ppm to 600ppm when I add the recommended GROW and BOOST per gal. I think totals are 50ml of the first and 25ml of the second. I started this around week two, as plant had 4th or 5th set of true leaves. I had nestled the rock wool cube in pumice type growing stones, but removed the stones so I could gauge the size and condition of the roots. So far I've learned (or re-learned) that I was running pH a bit high, so will keep at 5.7 (it does drift slowly higher with each day).
TheWholeTruth
Well-Known Member
The little silver worm things dont only attack soil, those flys will lay in any surface thats wet and has roots. Ive seen it in rockwool and in grow pebbles. From the picture of your roots they dont look normal too me, you can see some of them look to have got thick and have strange bending at points and seem to have node like thick tissue growth at some of the bends.
If i was in your position id start again. Plamts can survive from that issue but they rarely ever get back to the full potential and will take a long long time to start kicking out of the dwarf like symptoms.
Since I did see that fly in the chamber this morning... and did remember seeing it before,, it makes sense that this type of biological attack could occur and by-pass UV measures in place to keep algae and fungus under control. Also of interest that the same death scenario played out with the last grow attempt. I'll keep a precautionary fine mesh netting over the next grow for its first few weeks, and make a point to kill anything that walks, crawls, or flies about in the grow chamber. I wonder if I should keep a precautionary level of H2O2 ( say ~20-40 ppm ) in the water for the first weeks prior to nutrients as well. This worms probably could not live in such an environment. The wool fiber should wick up the hydrogen peroxide. If not wicking, I will dropper feed the water to the wool fiber cube from the top.
TheWholeTruth
Well-Known Member
H202 is a good tool to use in hydro consitently. You only need to add a small dose once or twice a week if done regular to maintain good conditions.
You can cover the top of your rockwool with some plastic with some small slits cut out for air and water if you have to top feed. They even sell covers for rockwool cubes with little cutouts for your water and air to get through. But thick plastic works too just use plastic thats light proof.
I did use to use old thin clothing material or cheep curtain neting in my pots and covering the top on plants grown in pots outdoors. It would stop anything i didnt want from geting into the growing media used.
StoneDHedgE
Well-Known Member
This is not hard to figure out. You pushed a young plant too hard and drowned it. Classic example of root rot.
I thought root rot was associated with darker roots.
I take it I should not allow the rock wool ( or peat seed pods << next grow ) to contact the water level in my pail ?
When should one begin to feed (ie increase TDS) ??
What ppm level do you select as a target midpoint ?
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
Yes that's what I told you to do before. Hydroton.
Running a coco or peat moss cube in a dwc bucket is Gona cause you problems imo.
Like I said before as well and other have stated, I don't think you have a good understanding of your feed, and dwc practices.
It can be complicated, and frustrating, and you're on the path, but it's obvious you need a little more experience before trying to dive deeper into it.
Think about it.... If you can't keep a plant alive for a few weeks what makes you think you'll be able to keep it healthy and thriving for months while it flowers....?
I know you probably have a hard on to do it your way, and I have respect for that, but if you choose that path just expect catastrophic failure and don't count on anything.
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StoneDHedgE
Well-Known Member
Mumbeltypeg
Well-Known Member
so this isn’t your first or second grow and you have had success growing with this method before? (I saw you mentioned you had other chambers set up similar?)
If so, what are you doing differently in this chamber? Those roots look massively underdeveloped for a plant that size.. there should be a big nest of them hanging down into the water already. Not saying that’s the issue but it’s certainly a symptom. If I were growing DWC (I have, don’t anymore) then I would be starting my seedlings in neoprene collars in an aerocloner then into a DWC box with a few small clay ball baskets running at half nutes until they have a good size root system hanging out of the basket.. then transfer whole net pit to your DWC bucket.
Also..I know you said your using UV to sterilise but clear tubing is an invitation for algae blooms/ph swings..I’d paint it black or wrap it or change it out.. airlines too.
Your air temps seem a little low also.. as is the humidity (vpd for early veg should have humidity closer to 70%).. and do they maintain those temps when lights out?
If so, what are you doing differently in this chamber? Those roots look massively underdeveloped for a plant that size.. there should be a big nest of them hanging down into the water already. Not saying that’s the issue but it’s certainly a symptom. If I were growing DWC (I have, don’t anymore) then I would be starting my seedlings in neoprene collars in an aerocloner then into a DWC box with a few small clay ball baskets running at half nutes until they have a good size root system hanging out of the basket.. then transfer whole net pit to your DWC bucket.
Also..I know you said your using UV to sterilise but clear tubing is an invitation for algae blooms/ph swings..I’d paint it black or wrap it or change it out.. airlines too.
Your air temps seem a little low also.. as is the humidity (vpd for early veg should have humidity closer to 70%).. and do they maintain those temps when lights out?
Mumbeltypeg
Well-Known Member
I recon your on the money there..