scrog after flower

After you guys flip to flower how long do you go before you stop tying the plant down under the canopy. When do you start letting the tops grow above? Is it after 2 weeks or when they start to show pistils?

Just start tucking under the netting through the stretch period and let them go after that.

If you've never ran the strain, and don't know when the stretch is over, it's hard to get it right the first time. I'm going for 2.5 to 3 weeks this time. We'll see what happens!

i like to put down the first level of trellis a few days before flip and get the canopy spread out... then once the stretch period is over and budsites start to form, i strip most large fan leaves and then put on the 2nd layer of trellis.

how tall you let them get depends on your light and ceiling limits.. Personally, i lollipop everything below the 1st trellis and aim for 4ft tall plants max in 3 gal pots.

thanks for the info. I'll wait till they start to throw pistols out then i will stop bending them all over the place. I thought i was going to have issues with not enough bud sites. I was very wrong, they are all over the place. It is getting hard to find open canopy for them now. It looks a lot more crowded in the pics.

Question about PPM. PPM is taken after adding cal mag and silica correct? i'm at 400ppm after adding silica and cal mag, then 1000 after nutes. So my nute ppm is 600ish correct? When people say "my ppm was this or that" they are talking ppm after silica cal mag or total PPM?

There is no consistency about what anyone / people talk about.. so yeah, that's a factor.

What's your water's ppm ?.. 400 after calmag and Si seems high to me. .. i start at city water 50ppm, add calmag to 150ppm.. then add nutes to 800ppm.... that's me.. your results will be different.. depending in light intensity, strain, enviroment etc..

the thing you need to figure out is how much you can give, in your situation.. and try to stay consistent.. a little more = darker .. a little less = lighter.. .. your plants look good at the moment, no curling leaves or deficiencies etc.. so you are on point right now.

That is P much wanted i wanted to know. My tap water is 145. Bottles say 5ml a gallon for silica and 5ml a gallon cal/mag and that gets me about 400ppm, i forgot i am doing bud igniter also. Hydro store guy sold me on that, not needed at all i assume. So that adds in also. My res is 1000 atm and i am seeing some tip burn, it was 800(total) before and i made some hot refill and the plant only drank water the next few days. I'll bring it back down with lower ppm refill. Seems like maybe i need to cut back on cal/mag and silica and do more nutes. My new growth is staying light green longer than i would assume. After a few days it does darken up. Not sure if this is just a symptom of the stretch.

Thanks for the help

Failmore said:

That is P much wanted i wanted to know. My tap water is 145. Bottles say 5ml a gallon for silica and 5ml a gallon cal/mag and that gets me about 400ppm, i forgot i am doing bud igniter also. Hydro store guy sold me on that, not needed at all i assume. So that adds in also. My res is 1000 atm and i am seeing some tip burn, it was 800(total) before and i made some hot refill and the plant only drank water the next few days. I'll bring it back down with lower ppm refill. Seems like maybe i need to cut back on cal/mag and silica and do more nutes. My new growth is staying light green longer than i would assume. After a few days it does darken up. Not sure if this is just a symptom of the stretch.

Thanks for the help

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Tap water ppm too high. I catch rain water. Break feedings down to 2 mixtures, as plants grow they can handle more nute uptake if overall ppm is not pumped.

Failmore said:

That is P much wanted i wanted to know. My tap water is 145. Bottles say 5ml a gallon for silica and 5ml a gallon cal/mag and that gets me about 400ppm, i forgot i am doing bud igniter also. Hydro store guy sold me on that, not needed at all i assume. So that adds in also. My res is 1000 atm and i am seeing some tip burn, it was 800(total) before and i made some hot refill and the plant only drank water the next few days. I'll bring it back down with lower ppm refill. Seems like maybe i need to cut back on cal/mag and silica and do more nutes. My new growth is staying light green longer than i would assume. After a few days it does darken up. Not sure if this is just a symptom of the stretch.

Thanks for the help

Click to expand...

What about getting an RO water setup to reduce your initial PPMs?

Daveindiego said:

What about getting an RO water setup to reduce your initial PPMs?

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yeah, i have looked into it. Hard for me to justify spending 250 or so on that when i'm not even sure my tap water is an issue. The plant look healthy for the most part. 2 weeks into flower now.

Failmore said:

am doing bud igniter also. Hydro store guy sold me on that

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What was his sales pitch blurb because It's only a high P sold for a very high $50 a Liter and plants don't need much P at all in the 1st week of flower so it's pretty much a waste of $50, It may be of benefit week 5-6 of flower when the plant will need it most.

Failmore said:

thanks for the info. I'll wait till they start to throw pistols out then i will stop bending them all over the place. I thought i was going to have issues with not enough bud sites. I was very wrong, they are all over the place. It is getting hard to find open canopy for them now. It looks a lot more crowded in the pics.

Question about PPM. PPM is taken after adding cal mag and silica correct? i'm at 400ppm after adding silica and cal mag, then 1000 after nutes. So my nute ppm is 600ish correct? When people say "my ppm was this or that" they are talking ppm after silica cal mag or total PPM?

View attachment 4230337

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The PPM listed on feeding schedules includes everything. Including starting PPM with tap water. Total PPM just before pouring into the medium. EC is far more precise.

budman111 said:

What was his sales pitch blurb because It's only a high P sold for a very high $50 a Liter and plants don't need much P at all in the 1st week of flower so it's pretty much a waste of $50, It may be of benefit week 5-6 of flower when the plant will need it most.

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Said it would cause the plant to start flowering quicker. The quicker it goes into the flower phase and less time spent in the stretch phase. My plant stretched for about 10-11 days. No idea if that is quicker or not.

Daveindiego said:

What about getting an RO water setup to reduce your initial PPMs?

Click to expand...

Side note...my water is a big problem. During the veg phase it was not drinking a lot of water. Everything looked fine and the plant didn't show any signs of deficiency. I changed the water once a week and everything was peachy. At the end of veg i was adding maybe 1 gallon water a day.

Now in flower plant is drinking 2 or 3 gallons a day. I noticed my PPM was never dropping. Always staying the same or going up and that is some bullshit. This is a direct result of the 145ppm tap water. It is full of shit the plant does not want and can not absorb. So i seemed like the plant was drinking only water and i was not adding any more nutes and did not see a ppm drop for the first 2 weeks flower. I changed out the nutes after 2 weeks. My tips were starting to yellow. The plant was drinking up all the nuts and i was not adding it back. I'll pick up an R/O this week. After starting to use distilled my tips are starting to green up.