Sativied's Indoor Garden
- Thread starter Sativied
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Sativied
Well-Known Member
Dear God... Stop testing me please. Trying not to be an asshole is really hard when you continue to put half-brain parrots on my path at trollitup
rikcherron99
Active Member
lol just because thats the first time growing in a closet doesnt mean its my first grow idc what you say that is a nitrogen build up im not an idiot
CherryHaze
Member
I am in love.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
It's the offering rep part that's stupid.... Your advice is worth as much as your rep and is as applicable as your sig.
Some day you will hopefully understand what an "idiot" you were for suggesting someone to flush their plants... for having a N build up in a mediumless system... Don't worry dude, you fit right in at Trollitup and won't stand out much between the many idiots who think plants can be flushed in the first place and plenty of fellow parrots repeating some nonsense they picked up or something they think applies to every other grow/setup as well.
Here ya go: https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/
I have that effect too on people sometimes
Sativied
Well-Known Member
9 weeks 12/12
CF2 (obviously needed most work LSTing to keep at SK level)
The stretcher from CF2, about 8 inches from bulb... but doing 'ok' considering.
SK2 (the one closest to harvest, matter of days)
HPS switched on so colors a bit skewed but it 'is' getting yellow on the right. The CF3-freak-weakling, 6 buds at the top, right are getting closet to harvesting as well. SK1 still going, CF1 and CF2 are swelling up. Some buds from CF1 (around corner left) have leaned into the pic:
Roughly 60 buds... will be happy with the 3 different strains to smoke and it will be enough to keep me stashed up for the rest of the year, but I doubt it will be close to previous two runs.
CF2 (obviously needed most work LSTing to keep at SK level)
The stretcher from CF2, about 8 inches from bulb... but doing 'ok' considering.
SK2 (the one closest to harvest, matter of days)
HPS switched on so colors a bit skewed but it 'is' getting yellow on the right. The CF3-freak-weakling, 6 buds at the top, right are getting closet to harvesting as well. SK1 still going, CF1 and CF2 are swelling up. Some buds from CF1 (around corner left) have leaned into the pic:
Roughly 60 buds... will be happy with the 3 different strains to smoke and it will be enough to keep me stashed up for the rest of the year, but I doubt it will be close to previous two runs.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys 
Just smoked a bit of quick dried Chocolate Fondue. I want to grow males too so no fem seed for a while, but if it were in regular, I'd definitely grow that one again soon. It's almost perfect. The taste is cheese/skunk mixed with sweet haze. The smell from the smoke gives me flashbacks to the previous century. Not sure why I'm surprised about that considering the lineage of CF.
Just smoked a bit of quick dried Chocolate Fondue. I want to grow males too so no fem seed for a while, but if it were in regular, I'd definitely grow that one again soon. It's almost perfect. The taste is cheese/skunk mixed with sweet haze. The smell from the smoke gives me flashbacks to the previous century. Not sure why I'm surprised about that considering the lineage of CF.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
I find it really hard to describe the Kolossus. Last round as well. It gets a better, more complex taste, after curing but it seems to lack something. It doesn't have a trait that really stands out and allows it to be identified easily so yeah I can totally understand some doubts over a possible mix-up. Kolossus is 'light'/fresh earthy-floral with a hint of lemon. I also described it as 'clean', it has no skunky/cheesy/spicy smell or taste. That said, it's different from the one I had last round, which was darker (taste/smell, not color) and had a stronger lemon smell while still in the closet. It smells better than the SK though and I like the effect, good for late in the day. I bet Bigby did a great job of describing the Kolossus like he does with many of Sannie strains in his grow journals.
Pinworm
Well-Known Member
That Kolossus looks crazy delicious. Tennis ball green. It totally looks like it would have a lemony finish, too. And, that CF looks buff. I finally got one of the new 30 gallon DWC bubblers that I put together into the veg box. Running some WW x BB this time around. I've read it's a pretty hardy strain. Perfect for a trial run. I was a little nervous to go NFT, so I stuck with something that would be a little more forgiving during the learning curve. Still dialing in the res temps. Peaking at 64F atm. But, I can probs get her to drop 2-3 more degrees if I rearrange some ducting. Thought I would come by, give you a peak, and get your thoughts (hope that's cool):
I'm currently working 2 jobs. Spare time is a luxury I don't have. So, over the course of this run, I'll be adding quite a bit of automation. Automatic pH control, timed res fill/drain, a float valve to keep water levels stable, and maybe a chiller when I have extra cash. I'm working on hooking up a live streaming webcam, and remote wifi switch to the AC that will control heat and humidity from my phone. Will be adding a few more airstones, too. I'm sure some of this stuff will take quite a bit of dialing in, but for now I'm just excited to get rolling. Have a gnarly rest of the week, guys.
-Parasite
I'm currently working 2 jobs. Spare time is a luxury I don't have. So, over the course of this run, I'll be adding quite a bit of automation. Automatic pH control, timed res fill/drain, a float valve to keep water levels stable, and maybe a chiller when I have extra cash. I'm working on hooking up a live streaming webcam, and remote wifi switch to the AC that will control heat and humidity from my phone. Will be adding a few more airstones, too. I'm sure some of this stuff will take quite a bit of dialing in, but for now I'm just excited to get rolling. Have a gnarly rest of the week, guys.
-Parasite
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Definitely, you had me at "tennis ball green" and to top it off you went on to mention automation.
First my thoughts:
- Looks excellent man, very clean setup.
- I use a chiller, to get it down to 65 (and then it warms up to 68 before it starts chilling again). I wouldn't make much of an effort to get it cooler, I'm already happy when it stays on 68 or lower.
- I wouldn't go with an NFT in any case. That's oldskool hydroponics and not really fit for MJ imo. The F stands for film, which is millimeters (opposed to inches in my system) and to get that to cover all roots you'd have to spread them out. My system is basically an RDWC, the tubes are the buckets, the res is the brain/control bucket FWC, flowing water culture? . The advantage of the latter is that you can add and mix nutes and PH control without throwing it on roots directly. In my case it also separates the air stones from the roots (air stones in res not tubes), hence easy to replace and clean.
Sounds a lot like some posts I made a few days ago in dutch grow forum. One of the members there hooked up blumat tensiometers to an arduino. The blumat tensiometers (artificial root from ceramic) are extremely popular here. I mentioned them several times in my earlier posts at RIU, referring to it as the magic wand for soil growers. I highly recommend it to both beginners (no more under/overwatering) and pros (better insight in water need optimize yields). It has a small display that shows the pressure in mBar. The guy basically turned it into a central wireless monitoring system (lv, lux, air temp, soil temp, and soil humidity) and is working on automating watering based on the info.It's in dutch, but the pics tell a lot: http://www.wietforum.nl/Zelf-digitale-Tensiologgers-maken-t103667.html (I usually don't link to other forums but it's dutch no competition for RIU - in case any mod starts cringing at the link.)
I bought an Arduino months ago but apart from some tutorial projects I haven't done much with it yet. Thanks to that guy above I'm motivated again to finish the project. Too many ideas to list, main points are measuring water uptake under different circumstances (after removing leaves, after feeding PK13/14, after temp changes etc, etc). Instead of using such tensio meters for soil I'm going to use a sonar sensor to measure distance from ceiling inside res to a floater in a tube, so I can calculate water use based on that. I got an unused PH probe from a defective Hanna meter I got to keep after getting a new set, which I'm going to hook up to this one. So I will have lux, lv, air temp, temp in rez, temp in tubes, water level, and ph. I had a webcam taking shots every X minutes on a soil run last year, with glass from sunglasses in front of it. Problem for me is that I'm in such a small space now I can't get a decent wide view with the cheap webcam I used in my small closet.
I considered several automation options:
- Emergency shutdown via phone
- Open flame sensors and gsm modules to send text message to my phone if my house is on fire
- Solenoid pumps to alternate the sprayers/tubes.
- Dosing pumps for PH up/down
Decided not to pursue the last option because:
- ph drift is good, will allow the plant to feed on all elements (google PH nutrient uptake chart for hydro)
- when you feed them what they want and no more and no less, the PH will remain fairly stable. If it doesn't, something else needs to be fixed (often a matter of adding either more water or nutes), not the PH.
I am still considering those dosing pumps, but only to be able to add pH up/down with an up and down button on the outside of my closet. Basically set it to 5.8 and it will automatically, slowly, adjust the pH in the res till the measurement of the pH probe matches what I entered on the display - and 'not' to keep it leveled after that initial setting.
Working on my new closet first, new setup next, and then I'll definitely finish the monitoring part of the project this year. As for automating, I switched to hydro to spent some 'more' time on growing, turns out that once you got it dialed in and stable, there's not much to do. Top off with water sometimes, which in turn can require adjusting ph and nutes (unless nutes where to high and ph too low, which usually goes together). Point is, without controlling the water level there's not much point in automating ph and nutes either. Regardless of the water level in the rez, the water level in my tubes is always the same, dictated by the dam at the end of the tube. You specifically do want to control the water level, so it makes more sense to automate the rest too.
So... if you ever want to exchange thoughts about it feel free to post it here. It'll be totally on-topic in Sativied's Indoor Garden thread sooner or later anyway
Have fun with your new grow setup, I look forward to seeing big plants with big buds with big calyxes with big trichs in it!
Pinworm
Well-Known Member
First off, thanks for taking the time for that awesome response, man. Tons of killer info. After reading this, I'm glad I went the direction I did. The whole idea of having your res separate to keep the roots buffered from direct application of pH, and nutrients is something I considered, but was looking for something that would be ridiculously simple to build. Now, I'm thinking maybe I'll go ahead and add a separate bucket (with a lower elevation than the catch bucket) as the res next run just for that reason alone. I just got my new 6x6 tent put together, so I'll have the room needed for that. Glad you think my temps are looking good. I've been reading over and over that colder is better, so I went for as big a res as I could to hold temps, and ph better. Finding a cheap chiller is tough, so...
Those blumat meters sound fucking amazing. I would be really interested in getting my hands on some for my girls in soil (which is like half the tent atm). I'll be doing some research on them. I'm sort of an over waterer, so having quantifiable data like that would be super helpful keeping the soil in ideal conditions. And, dude, calculating your water uptake via sonar sensors is one of the most innovative ideas I've heard all year. What did you use? and old depth finder or something. Just fucking gnarly, brother. +Rep (sometime in the next 24h
)
I was on the fence about ph control because I've also read (like you were saying) that drift, is something you want for optimum nutrient uptake. Like, dose @ 5.3 and let her slowly climb to 6 over the week, rapture, rinse, repeat. But, programming a drift would give you the upper hand IMO. You can control where you want your readings to stay/climb, and for how long. Awesomeness in potentia right there. Like, program for a .1 rise every 36 hours or something. IDK.
Anyways, man, I really appreciate your insight. I have a lot of respect for you, and your style and will definately stop by and show you what I've been up too. Thanks, my friend.
-Parasite
Those blumat meters sound fucking amazing. I would be really interested in getting my hands on some for my girls in soil (which is like half the tent atm). I'll be doing some research on them. I'm sort of an over waterer, so having quantifiable data like that would be super helpful keeping the soil in ideal conditions. And, dude, calculating your water uptake via sonar sensors is one of the most innovative ideas I've heard all year. What did you use? and old depth finder or something. Just fucking gnarly, brother. +Rep (sometime in the next 24h
)I was on the fence about ph control because I've also read (like you were saying) that drift, is something you want for optimum nutrient uptake. Like, dose @ 5.3 and let her slowly climb to 6 over the week, rapture, rinse, repeat. But, programming a drift would give you the upper hand IMO. You can control where you want your readings to stay/climb, and for how long. Awesomeness in potentia right there. Like, program for a .1 rise every 36 hours or something. IDK.
Anyways, man, I really appreciate your insight. I have a lot of respect for you, and your style and will definately stop by and show you what I've been up too. Thanks, my friend.
-Parasite
Sativied
Well-Known Member
You're most welcome!
Colder is better to keep the rez contents healthy and allow it to retain more oxygen (effectively making your airstones more effective), but there's a healthy limit for the roots temp that likely differs a bit per strain. A common temp during winters here for soil, the point at which the heating is turned on, is 64.5f preferably and 61 minimum.
http://www.house-garden.us/articles/5-tips-to-prevent-pythium/ Odd... they removed another good article about DWC... anyway, don't let the comment about 'ideal temp in hydro' throw you off, they had a DWC article that said 60-68. Point is 64 is definitely on the safe side, and I know the chillers aren't cheap. I got mine used, pretty cheap, but it's 450watt so I rather have it running only when needed. I actually still add a frozen bottle to my rez now and then (another considerable advantage of a control bucket on hot summer days ), just to save energy... although... my fridge may need that to freeze the bottle again It's not too bad though, it just runs for 20 minutes every few hours or so.
Indoor growing is all about control but there's always the risk of overdoing it. I agree though, controlling pH drift could lead to some interesting experiments, amongst others testing the value of controlling drift itself. It differs per strain, and in vegging and flowering too so you might find yourself spending more time tuning and finding that balance for different strains and phenos than you'd gain from controlling. Could be worth it if you grow the same strain for more than a couple of rounds. Another useful article: (I guess I need to change nutes for next round before people start thinking I'm working for H&G... )
http://www.house-garden.us/articles/ask-our-experts-what-is-your-ph-when-using-hg/
It's not that his particular range is best, the point is there's not one particular best range within the extremes (on top of there not being one best golden exact value).
https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/632925-claw-like-leaves-brown-spotting-2.html#post8812576 <--- link to a post with some more info. Growers measure nutes, measure pH, but when it comes to watering they often just lift the pot or stick their finger in the soil. It's not a super accurate device that will tell you exactly how much to give water, obviously depends on pot size and soil density, but it will give you the insight for a more balanced watering schedule and quantity and prevent extremes. I certainly cannot imagine ever growing on soil without it again. That would be similar to me like not measuring pH (which on soil makes more sense than not measuring water imo).
And thanks for the kind words
Colder is better to keep the rez contents healthy and allow it to retain more oxygen (effectively making your airstones more effective), but there's a healthy limit for the roots temp that likely differs a bit per strain. A common temp during winters here for soil, the point at which the heating is turned on, is 64.5f preferably and 61 minimum.
http://www.house-garden.us/articles/5-tips-to-prevent-pythium/ Odd... they removed another good article about DWC... anyway, don't let the comment about 'ideal temp in hydro' throw you off, they had a DWC article that said 60-68. Point is 64 is definitely on the safe side, and I know the chillers aren't cheap. I got mine used, pretty cheap, but it's 450watt so I rather have it running only when needed. I actually still add a frozen bottle to my rez now and then (another considerable advantage of a control bucket on hot summer days ), just to save energy... although... my fridge may need that to freeze the bottle again
It's not too bad though, it just runs for 20 minutes every few hours or so. Indoor growing is all about control but there's always the risk of overdoing it. I agree though, controlling pH drift could lead to some interesting experiments, amongst others testing the value of controlling drift itself. It differs per strain, and in vegging and flowering too so you might find yourself spending more time tuning and finding that balance for different strains and phenos than you'd gain from controlling. Could be worth it if you grow the same strain for more than a couple of rounds. Another useful article: (I guess I need to change nutes for next round before people start thinking I'm working for H&G... )
http://www.house-garden.us/articles/ask-our-experts-what-is-your-ph-when-using-hg/
It's not that his particular range is best, the point is there's not one particular best range within the extremes (on top of there not being one best golden exact value).
You, me, and a lot of others.Pinworm said:
https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/632925-claw-like-leaves-brown-spotting-2.html#post8812576 <--- link to a post with some more info. Growers measure nutes, measure pH, but when it comes to watering they often just lift the pot or stick their finger in the soil. It's not a super accurate device that will tell you exactly how much to give water, obviously depends on pot size and soil density, but it will give you the insight for a more balanced watering schedule and quantity and prevent extremes. I certainly cannot imagine ever growing on soil without it again. That would be similar to me like not measuring pH (which on soil makes more sense than not measuring water imo).
And thanks for the kind words
