sativas ?

So i was wondering if you guys have any advice on pure sativas like starting nute strength .iv grewn western winds and it wouldent flower since then iv learned they need a longer flowering time and seem to be tempermentel any advive are tricks on tivas post away

13/11 for veg and 11/13 for flower switch after aboit a month from seed, keep your lights a bit higher, they can generally handle hotter temps. i dont use nutrients so i cant comment. make sure your training them(lst) as you go or they can get really out of hand with the stretch

Thank you go wild tia going now

sativas...
I mainly grow landrace sat's, some 24+ weeks

treat it like you would any other plant. learn to read plants not ec meters and backs of nute boxes.

they are sensitive to n, and high ppms, they like alot of mag. and are pretty finicky. they are generally low odor and have poor bag appeal. stick with 12/12 they flower fine with that and is closer to nature anyway. lowering won't speed flowering noticeably but will fluf yiur bud nicely

they can handle higher light levels and on many of mine I purposely light bleach. they can take it and really pumps the buds and keeps em chunky

topping a few times will stop it from stretching in flower, and yes you can top in flower if it gets crazy. topping sativas hurts your yield though unlike indicas because it does kill the stretch that boosts yields and gives huge buds

how do you grow plants without nutrients?

qwizoking said:

how do you grow plants without nutrients?

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Supersoil, he means. Just add water.

I don't know what "super soil" is but I assume you mean an amended soil/compost mix..
if that's the case. it still pertains to the original question
do you not believe a plant adapted to extremely low nute levels would be a bit touchy in generic "super soil" that doesn't have specific ratios for what's being grown?

even among heavy sativas they don't have the same food requirements.
and yes I grow organically,rather vegan at the momoment

Thanks for the tips mine are in dwc flora series

hey qwizo id be happy to answrr your questions.
alec is correct i use what could be described as a "super soil" as opposed to a soillrss medium andbottle nutes or hydro or anything else like that.
i apologize for not clarifying
yes i do beleive more touchy equitorial sativas, hazes and the like would be burned by many of the supersoils i read about in subcools subforum, i prefer to use jobes organic granular nutes added to either roots organic 707 or a recycled mix of 707/ comppst from my own homemade bins and spikes for heavier feeders and plain 707 for my sativas qwizo is probably the guy to listen to the longest sativa ive grown is 14 weeks so hes got much more r

eal world experience on sativas which makes all the difference.
i prefer my plants have less than more and im all about the rhizosphere (root zone) take care of your microbes, fungus and roots and theyll take care of you

ive used subs soils in the past with standard 8week and 10 week stains and one arjans haze (test grow cant knock them till you try them and it was by far the worst plant ive ever had the misfortune of wasting 12 weeks on.) and ive been burned even with a good long cook and rest. just my experience tho.

throwdo said:

Thanks for the tips mine are in dwc flora series

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I am growing one in DWC right now, I know that at first I had nutrients over 2.2 EC and they were fine but I find that when they start to flower their nutrient tolerance reduces. I am now at 1.9 and still have a bit of nutrient burn on leaf tips.

Whats the ppm

qwizoking said:

I don't know what "super soil" is but I assume you mean an amended soil/compost mix..if that's the case. it still pertains to the original question
do you not believe a plant adapted to extremely low nute levels would be a bit touchy in generic "super soil" that doesn't have specific ratios for what's being grown?

even among heavy sativas they don't have the same food requirements.

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Im still new to organics and learning, but this is my understanding and how it was explained to me by an organic grower who grows mainly veggies.

If you grow in a properly cycled or cooked organic soil, the plants will take what it wants from the soil so the specific ratio of nutrients doesn't really matter. You just want to make sure all the nutrients your plant will need are available in your soil.

You should be able to plant seedlings in a well cooked soil with no nute burn issues. If you're soil is burning your plants then it needed to cycle longer.

The quality of your compost/worm castings will also make a difference in cycle time. Temperature as well.

if it worked like that my life would be so much easier... gardening in general would be so much easier. but the amount of nutes in your soil is directly proportional to the product. wether tobacco or wine or ganja. if we look at tobacco growers allowed to legally study how soil effects the burn quality, you'll see it's pretty drastic.. so not just in terms of plant health but the smoke and taste, ratios are very important

I sure wish I could just pump my soil with organic nutes though..

I use low nutrient soil for plants vegging, then repot into seven gallon pots for flowering. The 'super soil' is the bottom 2/3 or 1/2 of the pot, the rest is filled with low nutrient soil.

My nutrient schedule is as follows:

Water when needed

If it is a strain I have not grown, perhaps top feed super soil

Harvest when ready

Pretty simple.


Flushing? What the hell is that? RO what? Parts per who?


I add water, that's it. Municipal tap water.

Geeezzzzz~!!!! 24+ Weeks I thought 14 was long, haha/

qwizoking said:

if it worked like that my life would be so much easier... gardening in general would be so much easier. but the amount of nutes in your soil is directly proportional to the product. wether tobacco or wine or ganja. if we look at tobacco growers allowed to legally study how soil effects the burn quality, you'll see it's pretty drastic.. so not just in terms of plant health but the smoke and taste, ratios are very important

I sure wish I could just pump my soil with organic nutes though..

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Have you grown in an organic soil using water only and no bottled nutrients? It doesn't sound like you know much about it at all from that statement.

Read this description of this companys living organic soil:

http://www.kisorganics.com/products/shop/165

"KIS Organic Soil Mix is a revolutionary water-only soil mix for all container and raised bed plants. Ingredients are 100% organic and natural (minerals). No need to worry about burning your plants either, just plant and water until harvest! Get rid of all your bottled nutrients, and forget about confusing and expensive trips to the hydro shop or garden center. This soil mix has all the beneficial biology, nutrients, and minerals your plant needs to be happy and healthy for up to 6 months. Comprised of Alaskan Peat Moss, Oly Mountain Fish Compost, and medium and large pumice, it will allow for adequate drainage and aeration and just requires periodic watering (no nutrients needed)."

You can grow a plant in this soil from seedling to harvest with just water. How would that be possible if the nutrients are just directly available as you say. Obviously the plants nutrient requirements change over time.

qwizoking said:

learn to read plants not ec meters and backs of nute boxes.

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Can't i do both ?

Lol..
yes and I've been using the same soil for years..grown many methods

yes you can do both

who mentioned flushing or ro water? obviously you don't grow sativas? very finicky

qwizoking said:

Lol..
yes and I've been using the same soil for years..grown many methods

yes you can do both

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You puzzle me with contradictory statements, you are a mystery.