Samsung H series strips, Arrow seems to be blowing them out! what a deal!

babybud · Sep 17, 2020

getogrow said:
while i have you here , are them 4ft er's still available ? Thanks man

You can try this link but it would not let my purchase go through a few weeks ago when i tried. Amazon is out/no longer $1. If link doesn't work, google the part number and you'll still find some for under $2 shipped (still a good deal for 4ft aluminum channel)

LED Track 48

www.hubbell.com

getogrow · Sep 17, 2020

babybud said:
You can try this link but it would not let my purchase go through a few weeks ago when i tried. Amazon is out/no longer $1. If link doesn't work, google the part number and you'll still find some for under $2 shipped (still a good deal for 4ft aluminum channel)

LED Track 48

www.hubbell.com

its showing me 340 available. i may grab a few to play with.

ilovereggae · Sep 17, 2020

babybud said:
You can try this link but it would not let my purchase go through a few weeks ago when i tried. Amazon is out/no longer $1. If link doesn't work, google the part number and you'll still find some for under $2 shipped (still a good deal for 4ft aluminum channel)

LED Track 48

www.hubbell.com

I may have scored the last 20 off Amazon. Waiting patiently for the next strips deal so I can use them for a build.

vitalsine · Sep 17, 2020

getogrow said:
its showing me 340 available. i may grab a few to play with.

I scooped some too! Thanks @babybud

getogrow · Sep 17, 2020

ilovereggae said:
I may have scored the last 20 off Amazon. Waiting patiently for the next strips deal so I can use them for a build.

I think building your own is fun and when your done you have a higher quality build then most sellers. Well , obviously that depends on the parts you use to build with but in the end if it falls apart , its your own fault and you'll learn from it.
Its still going to be more convenient to just buy a prebuilt light with a decent warranty but that is out of some folks budget.

I'll post updates on my builds as i go. Im still waiting for a couple lights from meijui , so i'll learn even more from those.

ilovereggae · Sep 17, 2020

getogrow said:
I think building your own is fun and when your done you have a higher quality build then most sellers. Well , obviously that depends on the parts you use to build with but in the end if it falls apart , its your own fault and you'll learn from it.
Its still going to be more convenient to just buy a prebuilt light with a decent warranty but that is out of some folks budget.

I'll post updates on my builds as i go. Im still waiting for a couple lights from meijui , so i'll learn even more from those.

I got my first taste w some EB2 1 footers that I built a 40W veg light with, and then built another 80w veg light out of 5 vesta 2 ft strips - but went all out and got real led housing with lens shields and endcaps. That one is in the LED Strip Lords thread if you want to check it out. Went way over budget that time, so when I saw these strips got so cheap I tried jumping on it but they were gone. So I grabbed those $1 tracks while I could hoping there will be some more clearance deals on strips happening at some point.

getogrow · Sep 18, 2020

Im sorry for all the questions guys but i wanna fully understand all this whether i need to or not.
im confused on the efficiency part of the deal now....
For example: If i run h series strips at say 30 watts each vs 15w , where am i "losing" efficiency? Is it just because im maxing them out and heating them up , therefor decreasing lifespan ?

same example but more extreme: if i were to force each strip to run at 60 watts but was still able to keep them cool , where do i lose efficiency? on this example , is it only because im spending time and power to cool them?

In the real world, i plan to run each strip at about 20w each but im still not sure if i should get multiple drivers or just one bigger one. In the budget world , it seems price per watt is a bit cheaper going with the hlg 480 vs the 600/240/320. (arrow an digi key)

someone said something about running at lower voltages will = less voltage drop. Is this true ?

babybud · Sep 18, 2020

getogrow said:
Im sorry for all the questions guys but i wanna fully understand all this whether i need to or not.
im confused on the efficiency part of the deal now....
For example: If i run h series strips at say 30 watts each vs 15w , where am i "losing" efficiency? Is it just because im maxing them out and heating them up , therefor decreasing lifespan ?

same example but more extreme: if i were to force each strip to run at 60 watts but was still able to keep them cool , where do i lose efficiency? on this example , is it only because im spending time and power to cool them?

In the real world, i plan to run each strip at about 20w each but im still not sure if i should get multiple drivers or just one bigger one. In the budget world , it seems price per watt is a bit cheaper going with the hlg 480 vs the 600/240/320. (arrow an digi key)

someone said something about running at lower voltages will = less voltage drop. Is this true ?

For one you are going to lose lumens per watt.. more heat.. the data sheet will show you this if you look at the charts.. Also use the samsung engine calculator to see how power and temperature can affect efficiency if you do not want to use a chart

Engine Calculator | SAMSUNG LED | Samsung LED Global Website

Engine Calculator - Support. Calculate engine at Samsung LED global website quickly and easily

www.samsung.com

1212ham · Sep 18, 2020

babybud said:
Not saying they aren't superior, just 4x the cost and not needed unless you are planning to assemble and disassemble multiple times. If we are trying to be budget friendly which with the price of these strips I assume most of us are, then regular push connectors work just fine. The 4ft aluminum channel I posted for $1 shipped isn't the most superior heatsink either but is a hell of a deal for anyone pushing a lot of strips at low wattage.

I see you post a fair amount and are knowledgeable so please don't take the above as an insult, just an alternate approach for anyone trying to save a few bucks where they can.

While I have you here, do you have any thoughts on removing leds on a strip and replacing them? I have some V and M series laying around that i'd love to replace the leds with reds and then mix in a few strips with my current build.

I used two wire nuts, one for all the positive wires and one for the negative, probably cost me about ten cents.

babybud · Sep 18, 2020

1212ham said:
I used two wire nuts, one for all the positive wires and one for the negative, probably cost me about ten cents.

You have 20+ strips on 2 wire nuts? lol but in all honesty 100 wire nuts at home depot are $7 and 100 4 port push connectors are $8.50... I'll splurge on the push connectors but understand that could be a 10pc chicky nuggy's from BK in someone else's eyes

1212ham · Sep 18, 2020

I got big nuts. ;-)

18 strips. Six rows of three strips, daisy chained in parallel, then pairs of rows in series that are then connected in parallel. Clear as mud right! I'd have to draw a diagram. I think it's four wires in each nut, the light's at another location.

Parts arrived a couple days ahead of schedule so I scrambled and built it a weekend sooner than planned, before the design was finished.

Used dirt cheap Stars brand thermal paste off ebay and zip ties. If you look closely you can see two brass fittings in the corners, it can be water cooled, just wanted to experiment.

sethimus · Sep 18, 2020

getogrow said:
Im sorry for all the questions guys but i wanna fully understand all this whether i need to or not.
im confused on the efficiency part of the deal now....
For example: If i run h series strips at say 30 watts each vs 15w , where am i "losing" efficiency? Is it just because im maxing them out and heating them up , therefor decreasing lifespan ?

page 22

https://cdn.samsung.com/led/file/resource/2020/03/Data_Sheet_LM561C_CRI80_Rev.9.0.pdf

all 3 diagrams show you the relative flux, these are all curves, not straight lines. the more current you give each diode and the hotter you run them reduces your flux

getogrow · Sep 19, 2020

sethimus said:
page 22

https://cdn.samsung.com/led/file/resource/2020/03/Data_Sheet_LM561C_CRI80_Rev.9.0.pdf

all 3 diagrams show you the relative flux, these are all curves, not straight lines. the more current you give each diode and the hotter you run them reduces your flux

So , let me see if im reading this right....
So running them at 25c gains you about 9% flux vs running them at 85c ?

Thanks for the calc @babybud That helps a lil more.

Im not quite understanding it all yet but i can wire up a fixture now and match it with the right driver, no problems.

The h series strips say 24.2v on them , so would it be more efficient or just a better idea to grab something capable of going a few volts above the 24v limit of the hlg-xxxh-24a ? (thats assuming ill run it all parallel ) I just wanna make sure i can drive them at 200mA each if i wanted to. Im probably never going to run them hard but i want the option to be able to if i want. Does a strict limit of 24v stop me from doing that? Thanks again guys!

Rocket Soul · Sep 19, 2020

getogrow said:
View attachment 4688497
So , let me see if im reading this right....
So running them at 25c gains you about 9% flux vs running them at 85c ?

Thanks for the calc @babybud That helps a lil more.

Im not quite understanding it all yet but i can wire up a fixture now and match it with the right driver, no problems.

The h series strips say 24.2v on them , so would it be more efficient or just a better idea to grab something capable of going a few volts above the 24v limit of the hlg-xxxh-24a ? (thats assuming ill run it all parallel ) I just wanna make sure i can drive them at 200mA each if i wanted to. Im probably never going to run them hard but i want the option to be able to if i want. Does a strict limit of 24v stop me from doing that? Thanks again guys!

I havent got the datasheet at hand but if they are 24.2V in the datasheet at test current (which im 100% sure is considerably higher than 200mA) then you should be fine with a 24V driver cause forward voltage drops a bit when you lower current. This is one of the mechanisms of higher lum/w at lower current along with the junction temps.

Another thing to consider is using 48V drivers and connecting 2 strips in series and then making parallel strings out of them. This is a good way of making a cleaner build since it removes a fair bit of wiring.

I allways recommend using A-type dimming drivers cause they have voltage regulation. AB should have both on and off board dimming but might not have voltage regulation for all meanwells. With voltage regulation you set your driver up so that it works like a fuse: you set your voltage in such a way that each string has a strict max current. Very handy for not burning chips

getogrow · Sep 19, 2020

Rocket Soul said:
I havent got the datasheet at hand but if they are 24.2V in the datasheet at test current (which im 100% sure is considerably higher than 200mA) then you should be fine with a 24V driver cause forward voltage drops a bit when you lower current. This is one of the mechanisms of higher lum/w at lower current along with the junction temps.

Another thing to consider is using 48V drivers and connecting 2 strips in series and then making parallel strings out of them. This is a good way of making a cleaner build since it removes a fair bit of wiring.

I allways recommend using A-type dimming drivers cause they have voltage regulation. AB should have both on and off board dimming but might not have voltage regulation for all meanwells. With voltage regulation you set your driver up so that it works like a fuse: you set your voltage in such a way that each string has a strict max current. Very handy for not burning chips

Thank you very much rock! yes when i said 200mA , i meant per led..... its 1200mA at 24.2v per strip.

ive got the series parallel thing completely figured out. its the voltage/current/efficiancy correlation thats confusing. The only part that is very easy to understand is that adding more current =more heat and will reduce lifetime and efficiency.

I think my brain is maxed...im going to keep trying to understand but i dont have high hopes. :bigjoint:

getogrow · Sep 19, 2020

where does a guy find a driver without tariffs ?

ilovereggae · Sep 19, 2020

getogrow said:
where does a guy find a driver without tariffs ?

Assuming you are in the US, try online-components.com I have gotten a bunch of drivers from them. They were having 5% off sale last week not sure if still happening. They also just sent me a coupon for 15% off for repeat customers so usually I can get drivers cheaper there than anywhere else. They have a Phoenix warehouse too so I always just choose the cheapest ground shipping and I still get it to LA in 2 days.

loco41 · Sep 19, 2020

getogrow said:
Thank you very much rock! yes when i said 200mA , i meant per led..... its 1200mA at 24.2v per strip.

ive got the series parallel thing completely figured out. its the voltage/current/efficiancy correlation thats confusing. The only part that is very easy to understand is that adding more current =more heat and will reduce lifetime and efficiency.

I think my brain is maxed...im going to keep trying to understand but i dont have high hopes.

I'm with you there man. I figured understanding a few basic points was good enough for now. A lot of stuff goes right over my head, but thankfully we have people herea who can help to try and inch us along in the whole scheme of things.

getogrow · Sep 19, 2020

loco41 said:
I'm with you there man. I figured understanding a few basic points was good enough for now. A lot of stuff goes right over my head, but thankfully we have people herea who can help to try and inch us along in the whole scheme of things.

getogrow translation: "thankfully we have rocket appliances here who can help"
Ive had to recently change my title from "electrician" to "residential AC electrician" :lol:

getogrow · Sep 19, 2020

ilovereggae said:
Assuming you are in the US, try online-components.com I have gotten a bunch of drivers from them. They were having 5% off sale last week not sure if still happening. They also just sent me a coupon for 15% off for repeat customers so usually I can get drivers cheaper there than anywhere else. They have a Phoenix warehouse too so I always just choose the cheapest ground shipping and I still get it to LA in 2 days.

thanks man ...i found um on Jameco electronics.
I picked up 2x HLG-240H-48a to play with. (135$usd shipped)I went ahead and followed advice from most and got two drivers vs one bigger one.

First two diy lights will be 12x h series strips wired 2series x 6 parallel for 20ish watts a strip. no heatsink yet.
Using those to replace a bunch of 100w corn type led bulbs that burn up very fast. The bulbs i have are round so over 50% of the light is being wasted.

Thanks guys! ill keep ya posted an keep asking/answering questions as needed.

soil :joint:

Samsung H series strips, Arrow seems to be blowing them out! what a deal!

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