Runtz try three

R

rmax

Well-Known Member
Lux things first. Using the Uni-T UT383BT light meter

I lowered the fixture then powered it to low. Where everything sits the meter reading averages 8,200 as it hovers above each top. The fixture on high reads 45,000.

Using the Royal Seeds scale below 8,200 seems about right for this phase. So I attached the light fixture to an 18/6 timer & will leave this way until transplant or advised differently.

RQS WEBSITE:
How Much Light Do Your Cannabis Plants Require?
Roughly, the lux ranges below are best suited to their corresponding stage of the growing cycle:
• Clone and seedling stage: 5,000–7,000 lux
• Vegetative stage: 15,000–50,000 lux
• Flowering stage: 45,000–65,000 lux
 

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R

rmax

Well-Known Member
Next is temp & RH sensors.

The UpDayDay literature indicates a

temp range between 68°F & 75°F
RH range between 50-60%

Thoughts on

program the temp probe set points low 74°F / high 76°F.
and RH sensor set points 55% 62%

1675989429848.png
 
N

Nope_49595933949

Well-Known Member
rmax said:
Lux things first. Using the Uni-T UT383BT light meter

I lowered the fixture then powered it to low. Where everything sits the meter reading averages 8,200 as it hovers above each top. The fixture on high reads 45,000.

Using the Royal Seeds scale below 8,200 seems about right for this phase. So I attached the light fixture to an 18/6 timer & will leave this way until transplant or advised differently.

RQS WEBSITE:
How Much Light Do Your Cannabis Plants Require?
Roughly, the lux ranges below are best suited to their corresponding stage of the growing cycle:
• Clone and seedling stage: 5,000–7,000 lux
• Vegetative stage: 15,000–50,000 lux
• Flowering stage: 45,000–65,000 lux
Click to expand...
Protip. Get the PPFD meter app from the app store and connect via Bluetooth to the sensor. Then in the app do this.
Hit the sensor button
Screenshot_20230209-194146.png
Select the Bluetooth sensor.
Screenshot_20230209-194210.png
Then select the PPFD & DLI button
Screenshot_20230209-194146.png
Select settings in the lower left hand corner
Screenshot_20230209-194317.png
Select the appropriate settings for your light and hours of light.
Screenshot_20230209-194405.png
And you should be ready to go.
 
R

rmax

Well-Known Member
Nope_49595933949 said:
You want the temp range more like 73 (lights off) - and 83 (lights on)
Click to expand...
With only one fixture going I won't be able to achieve the upper temp. I would need a second controller and heater.

I can make sure the low doesn't drop below 73 lights off.. Later when the second fixture is introduced there will be higher highs.

What we need is a PLC strip with programmable outlets,
 
Marq1340

Marq1340

Well-Known Member
rmax said:
I've been looking at this tool.

The thing I don't know is leaf temp. Do you recommend buying a laser thermometer?
Click to expand...
It's a great tool to have.

I've never tested the surface temperature myself I just remember reading it'll be a bit cooler than the ambient temps, and that the humidity plays a big role on the surface temps(the higher the humidity the warmer the surface). I'm not fully caught up with the thread yet but it seems everything is heading in the right direction. Good luck.
 
Boatguy

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
rmax said:
I only have the two sensors right now and have moved them around the tent. The temps/RH is the same everywhere. There's a pedestal style oscillating fan in the tent so a lot of air movement.
Click to expand...
Honestly you can only do so much in a tent. I only go by temps during lights on and humidity at lights off.
No issues with mold or anything else.
In a full tent, i keep lights on temps around 78 which keeps humidity around 70. No issues in flower with good circulation.
 
simpleleaf

simpleleaf

Well-Known Member
weedstoner420 said:
Just my 2 cents, I don't understand pot growers' fixation on using solo cups, or any other container meant for drinking. I tried them for one grow and it was annoying enough trying to poke holes in them without cracking or splitting...I guess once the plants are growing they work just as well as any other container, but why go with something that requires modification right off the bat?

Why not use some 3 or 4 inch square nursery pots? They're not expensive at all, they already have drain holes of an appropriate size, and will last way longer than solo cups, plus you can reuse them...
Click to expand...
I use a Weller soldering gun, melts really nice holes quickly, once the iron is hot.
 
Bruce nugbee

Bruce nugbee

Member
farmerfischer said:
Good luck..


Question,, why wrap the seeds in paper towel and put them in a cup of water? Just soak the seeds in water for 12-24 hours and plant them.. or just do the paper towel method without throwing it into a cup of water..
Click to expand...
Water first a dash of mychorriza 24/48 hours
Then when you see a white tap root tip transfer to paper towel that's moist abit and in a sealed place. Glass bottle works well, Tupperware box too.
Give it a day and check for tap root growth.

Sprinkle mycorrhiza into the medium where your planting for best results
 
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