Run off for coco/ perlite 70/ 30

Thisguy-4'

Active Member
(Forgot to mention im in uk)
So I'm just wondering how much people water to get their 20% run off I realise things can change the outcome like how wet it is at the time of watering and depending if the plant is root bound or not but I'm just after a general idea I can't check at the moment with my plants my pots are around 10l can't remember exactly now they are square pots but please post your findings no matter the size and mixture also I have an inch of them clay balls
 
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medidedicated

Well-Known Member
I water until it’s gushing, let it flow for a few mins, then start picking up the runoff to toss away. No volume, just feed the crap out of it.

Will come handy in flower when dry backs are intense and looking to keep pot regulated in ph and ec and rid of build up of any kind.

3-5 gallon fabric pots. Coco pearlite 90/10 for best water retention, light feed. Fast dry back. 1x in veg, 3 times a day flower.

I would feed 4x if it was automated. Hand water.
 
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Thisguy-4'

Active Member
Also I'm in uk so it's different measurements struggling to find a correct conversion at the moment I'm watering 2litre at the moment
 

Thisguy-4'

Active Member
I water until it’s gushing, let it flow for a few mins, then start picking up the runoff to toss away. No volume, just feed the crap out of it.

Will come handy in flower when dry backs are intense and looking to keep pot regulated in ph and ec and rid of build up of any kind.

3-5 gallon fabric pots. Coco pearlite 90/10 for best water retention, light feed. Fast dry back. 1x in veg, 3 times a day flower.

I would feed 4x if it was automated. Hand water.
At the moment I can only hand water but in the future I will be setting up an auto feed I've got some bluemats so was going to do some with blumats some on a timer and pump and hand feed one just to see the results also I've read that you need to lower the ec with multiple feeds but I believe it can get tricky because this all depends on your temp and humidity so would need to work out the vpd because your ec strength will need to be changed depending on how much the plant is transpiring like
 

medidedicated

Well-Known Member
At the moment I can only hand water but in the future I will be setting up an auto feed I've got some bluemats so was going to do some with blumats some on a timer and pump and hand feed one just to see the results also I've read that you need to lower the ec with multiple feeds but I believe it can get tricky because this all depends on your temp and humidity so would need to work out the vpd because your ec strength will need to be changed depending on how much the plant is transpiring like
Not sure how long you grew for, probably longer than me but I just created my own feed that maximizes at 1.5ec total.

That is considered light feed, but people say 1.5ec is enough for a plant.

Anything heavier I was under impression is for slow dry back.

I use tap water and gh maxi series. Tap is .5ec but decent quality.

Was under impression this was just basic coco use and should do fine. It is really the slow dry back from cooler temps that may prompt heavier feed.

Not common with setups that are usually hot anyway. Flower, it will get really thirsty so having low EC below 1.5 total might be best

Was thinking it is like daily light integral but with nutrients, just needs be optimal and let it do it’s thing. Keep an eye on ph at all times.
 

Thisguy-4'

Active Member
Not sure how long you grew for, probably longer than me but I just created my own feed that maximizes at 1.5ec total.

That is considered light feed, but people say 1.5ec is enough for a plant.

Anything heavier I was under impression is for slow dry back.

I use tap water and gh maxi series. Tap is .5ec but decent quality.

Was under impression this was just basic coco use and should do fine. It is really the slow dry back from cooler temps that may prompt heavier feed.

Not common with setups that are usually hot anyway. Flower, it will get really thirsty so having low EC below 1.5 total might be best

Was thinking it is like daily light integral but with nutrients, just needs be optimal and let it do it’s thing. Keep an eye on ph at all times.
Well I'm not expert currently got back into it after years off and your right about the colder temps with the slow dry back but from what I believe it's not as simple you need to look at the vpd because you can have high temps and high humidity and if the humidity is too high that will interfere with how much the plant transpires but I'm no expert on this just what I've read recently I've currently switched to led which led me to all this new information well for me anyway also I'm feeding at 1.7 to 1.8 ec now 3 week in flower starting ec is 0.1 but I'm new to measuring ec so just seeing how it goes I have a spider farmer sf4000 in a 4x4 at 80% growing 5 wedding cake from clone in a scrog some pics with light on znd off
 

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medidedicated

Well-Known Member
Well I'm not expert currently got back into it after years off and your right about the colder temps with the slow dry back but from what I believe it's not as simple you need to look at the vpd because you can have high temps and high humidity and if the humidity is too high that will interfere with how much the plant transpires but I'm no expert on this just what I've read recently I've currently switched to led which led me to all this new information well for me anyway also I'm feeding at 1.7 to 1.8 ec now 3 week in flower starting ec is 0.1 but I'm new to measuring ec so just seeing how it goes I have a spider farmer sf4000 in a 4x4 at 80% growing 5 wedding cake from clone in a scrog some pics with light on znd off

Looks great! Yea, vpd cannot be perfect as you work with averages so it is all spontaneously applied and therefore doesn’t have to be perfect.

If you are in a crammed space, which you are, the goal as I understand it is to survive the run as those plants will exaust tons of moisture.

You pretty much have 4 times what I am doing now in a 2x2

DCB10B26-061F-46F8-9C47-4DE0075DC77F.jpeg

I just got done concluding with someone that it just becomes too tricky to calculate so just role with what keeps them happy and dry.

You spread out the canopy nicely, now just let them grow or bend some nodes 90 degrees to keep canopy level with one more layer of net.

The nodes that quickly out grow the rest of the canopy are nice to bend.

Or if in an emergancy to lower the height of canopy, you can bend most of those nodes over. That would shave 12” of overall growth that might spell out crop faliure in the future.

The larger nodes will grow almost double than the smallest nodes in height as they have lots of growth hormones.

Scrogging is all about an even wide spread canopy of buds but in 2x2 spaces, it is more like packing them in so you don’t have to raise the light away from lower buds too far.
 
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Thisguy-4'

Active Member
Looks great! Yea, vpd cannot be perfect as you work with averages so it is all spontaneously applied and therefore doesn’t have to be perfect.

If you are in a crammed space, which you are, the goal as I understand it is to survive the run as those plants will exaust tons of moisture.

You pretty much have 4 times what I am doing now in a 2x2

View attachment 5268009

I just got done concluding with someone that it just becomes too tricky to calculate so just role with what keeps them happy and dry.

You spread out the canopy nicely, now just let them grow or bend some nodes 90 degrees to keep canopy level with one more layer of net.

The nodes that quickly out grow the rest of the canopy are nice to bend.

Or if in an emergancy to lower the height of canopy, you can bend most of those nodes over.

The larger nodes will grow almost double than the smallest nodes in height as they have lots of growth hormones.

Scrogging is all about an even wide spread canopy of buds but in 2x2 spaces, it is more like packing them in so you don’t have to raise the light away from lower buds too far.
Yes I know I've actually thinned it out loads about 5 days ago but looks more packed now than then so will go through them again this wknd will be putting my dehumidifier in and adding another fan below I've had loads of problems with pests at the start from the clones I got but that's sorted now then I had problems with either cal/ mag deficiency or lockout or both then temp problems had to use a oil radiator then I had to recalibrate my ph meter but wasn't able to sort that for a few week because of time off work and having literally no money so I thought it would be best to flower after I resolved most of the problems and then deal with all the growth after
 

Thisguy-4'

Active Member
Looks great! Yea, vpd cannot be perfect as you work with averages so it is all spontaneously applied and therefore doesn’t have to be perfect.

If you are in a crammed space, which you are, the goal as I understand it is to survive the run as those plants will exaust tons of moisture.

You pretty much have 4 times what I am doing now in a 2x2

View attachment 5268009

I just got done concluding with someone that it just becomes too tricky to calculate so just role with what keeps them happy and dry.

You spread out the canopy nicely, now just let them grow or bend some nodes 90 degrees to keep canopy level with one more layer of net.

The nodes that quickly out grow the rest of the canopy are nice to bend.

Or if in an emergancy to lower the height of canopy, you can bend most of those nodes over. That would shave 12” of overall growth that might spell out crop faliure in the future.

The larger nodes will grow almost double than the smallest nodes in height as they have lots of growth hormones.

Scrogging is all about an even wide spread canopy of buds but in 2x2 spaces, it is more like packing them in so you don’t have to raise the light away from lower buds too far.
Also I have done it as a proper scrog just got set back and I know I should of had them closer to the net but like I said had a nightmare lol
 

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Nizza

Well-Known Member
If you have the means of controlling your humidity, it will make dialing in watering timing much easier and more predictable. It also allows you to adjust feed better, and is a huge game changer
 

Thisguy-4'

Active Member
If you have the means of controlling your humidity, it will make dialing in watering timing much easier and more predictable. It also allows you to adjust feed better, and is a huge game changer
Yes I have a controller for my radiator and dehumidifier which I'll set up this wkd I have a great extractor too but had it turned down because I needed the temp higher but I've turned it up now that the humidity is climbing I currently have a oil radiator in the same room the tent is in but that was just a temp solution I've basically been trying to work out how to grow again because I've moved from using canna nutrient line feeding from thier schedule as a guide using tap water and not using ec with a 600w mh then hps to using some powdered nutrients I've never used changing to using ec as guide and filtering through 3 part filter using an Led light full spectrum and all the other stuff I plan to implement lol basically starting fresh also had to set all this up fast and try sort new house out its been quite the head fuck haha
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
i read about you gonna use blumats. my wife uses them for her plants when we go away but ive always wondered how they would do in coco? it seems like they keep her plants soil moist but definitely no run off. i have a auto feed system so i can control runoff . but it seems like blumats have way less failure points than pump, timers, etc. and i could do a few plants outside too.


@MickFoster you ever try blumats in coco? thoughts?
 

Thisguy-4'

Active Member
i read about you gonna use blumats. my wife uses them for her plants when we go away but ive always wondered how they would do in coco? it seems like they keep her plants soil moist but definitely no run off. i have a auto feed system so i can control runoff . but it seems like blumats have way less failure points than pump, timers, etc. and i could do a few plants outside too.


@MickFoster you ever try blumats in coco? thoughts?
From what I believe with blumats if you have enough pressure from your reservoir and have the carrot deep enough larger pots may need multiple or multiple different size carrots and a bigger ratio of perlite to coco I can't reference how much because I've not had chance to test this theory out yet until I can get rid of the tent and make a proper room but I believe doing that and lowering the ec will be sufficient and will still get some run off with plenty of time dialing in but like I said I can't say this actually works
 

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
Also I'm in uk so it's different measurements struggling to find a correct conversion at the moment I'm watering 2litre at the moment
Don't go off conversions or exact numbers, once some water drains out the bottom you know its fully saturated. If you need tons of runoff something is wrong with your water or feed.

I have plants that I feed until a little water comes out the bottom and I let them drink it right back up out of the tray and they grow perfectly healthy. Those plants get a lower strength feed than the plants with drain to waste.
 

Thisguy-4'

Active Member
i might have to try some outdoors in coco and see what happens.
They work by moisture so basically when you fill them with water and close then put in the soil when they dry out I think that causes the pressure to change and will open the valve or something like that haha
 

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
i might have to try some outdoors in coco and see what happens.
Coco tends to become acidic as it breaks down IME. I had problems with pH being acidic and you just reminded me to top dress dolomite lime on my plot before spring. Rain I believe is usually acidic I know a lot of farmers around here spread dolomite lime on their fields.
 

Thisguy-4'

Active Member
Don't go off conversions or exact numbers, once some water drains out the bottom you know its fully saturated. If you need tons of runoff something is wrong with your water or feed.

I have plants that I feed until a little water comes out the bottom and I let them drink it right back up out of the tray and they grow perfectly healthy. Those plants get a lower strength feed than the plants with drain to waste.
Yes I get you I just have never grown this long in such all pots usually use 20l uk pots and sont vwg this long so wanted to get an idea qhat people water to get x amount off run off with having ao many changes this grow I wanted to try and make sure I'm getting enough run off so if I see problems arise I could possibly rule that out
 
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