Royal queen northern lights auto

whitnasty1 said:

You look to be on track pretty good. The MH will definitely facilitate vegative growth better than the HPS. As long as you take advance from others (presuming it's good advice) and use common sense, you'll be good. This has been my first AF / indoor grow too. It's been 5 years at least since I've grown anything. Used to grow photoperiods in a greenhouse, so I had to pretty much learn everything over while getting my room dialed in. So you can definitely make it happen.

What kind of nutes are you using? My NL's are pretty heavy feeders, last feed was at 920ppm, pretty heavy for autos. My skunk #1 autos didn't like to go over 600ppm. The NL's seem to be pretty big nitrogen hogs as well, I wouldn't feed yours anything for atleast another two weeks or so, then start slow and slowly build up, we'll be here to help you out along the way. There's nothing more fulfilling than taking that tiny seed and turning into a labor of love, I forgot how much I love cultivation, and i personally think you have to grow your own medicine in order to fully appreciate this awesome plant, instead of how other people see it, just as a drug, or something to get you high.

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I hear ya bro I hate the stereotype the good user,including myself,is dubbed by society for using this wonder plant as she is. I am a green thumb from a kid and all year round am growing all type of herbs,chillis,tomatoes just to name a few so have gardening runnin thru me but as this will be my second ever indoor grow I'm finding everyday the similarities there is in/outside but how easier inside is to control. I only ph my soil and my run offs and always flush every 8 days as its just my way. I don't do ppm or anything else as I'll look at that later on as I grow with the indoors thing (is it that big of a thing to skip the eec n ppms etc as I am) .I only feed filtered water so just mix nutes into that and ph run off when needed. I'm using house and garden line - soil a&b,bud xl when time and top booster for my pk13-14 when needed,also I'm using budlink and canna boost. I have just purchased a retro 600w 5800k mh for my cooltube as the hps is out now til flower so I'm hoping to see a huge jump in growth in the next week. Thanks for your kind words and offer for help it's nice to know good helps there when needed and without running the risk of anybody actually seeing my grow room or where I live as I'm not paranoid but know all to well trust no one unfortunately. Cheers whitnasty

As long as you're not feeding at full strength and have a ton of additives, you can probably get by without a ppm meter. If you start getting around 75% strength, i would get one. You can get a good HM meter off Amazon for like $16 bucks, it has definitely been nice having. So if you can swing it, I'd go ahead and get one. But as long as you stay around 50% strength, you'll PROBABLY be okay. Also, since you're using filtered water, you may want to get some Botanicare Cal Mag Plus. I had a MAJOR cal def on all of my Skunks and the one smaller NL, when you do start feeding, I'd add it on every feed day. A ppm meter would help determine the TDS of your filtered water so you can know if calmag will be needed. One more thing, make sure your soil is DRY before you water again. I over watered at the beginning of my last run and it def slowed them down until I started letting it dry. How far away is your MH from your girls?

whitnasty1 said:

As long as you're not feeding at full strength and have a ton of additives, you can probably get by without a ppm meter. If you start getting around 75% strength, i would get one. You can get a good HM meter off Amazon for like $16 bucks, it has definitely been nice having. So if you can swing it, I'd go ahead and get one. But as long as you stay around 50% strength, you'll PROBABLY be okay. Also, since you're using filtered water, you may want to get some Botanicare Cal Mag Plus. I had a MAJOR cal def on all of my Skunks and the one smaller NL, when you do start feeding, I'd add it on every feed day. A ppm meter would help determine the TDS of your filtered water so you can know if calmag will be needed. One more thing, make sure your soil is DRY before you water again. I over watered at the beginning of my last run and it def slowed them down until I started letting it dry. How far away is your MH from your girls?

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Cheers mate. I feed Epsom salts to all my plants when they need it and no dramas there so far. As for nutes I will start off feeding at a qtr or third strength and work upwards as she gets hungrier (her leaves now aren't exactly dark green there kinda light green should i give her a small feed?) I always let my soil dry out before i re water and have heard autos will slow if too much water/moisture in medium so only feeding water every 4 day or so (lucky to be a qtr cup of water). Mh is in a air cooled cool tube at 14 inches from top of her with with the back of the hand test done and all good. I can get it closer but will gradually do it in increments.

Already.in.use said:

Yeah your right - generally you don't transplant auto's, they're roots aren't as strong and if damaged won't have the requisite time necessary to heal themselves. But I transplant under 2 conditions: enough potting mix in the small pot to ensure roots don't poke out and the soil I'm transferring it too isn't too 'hot' for a seedling.
Be careful and don't do unnecessary things. I just find must of the complaints about auto's is from people expecting the world and being too hasty. I pull just under 3oz per auto every 2 weeks, with no LST, no topping or even a support stick lol (which I will implement as they get a bit heavy!).

Enjoy them - they're awesome!

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That sounds like a reasonable harvest. I was questioning LST for the auto and my feeling was to just let it be and maybe trim some fan leaves to let some light in and help with airflow. Definitely was not going to top or anything. Other than that, just letting them do there thing. From what I gather it is best to do as little as possible to an auto. Give it gentle and light feeding of nutes only in bloom, maybe just a little wee shot in veg. Can you direct me to a good way to support heavy branches?

IMO trimming leaves has more of a negative effect then topping

brotes grandes said:

Cheers mate. I feed Epsom salts to all my plants when they need it and no dramas there so far. As for nutes I will start off feeding at a qtr or third strength and work upwards as she gets hungrier (her leaves now aren't exactly dark green there kinda light green should i give her a small feed?) I always let my soil dry out before i re water and have heard autos will slow if too much water/moisture in medium so only feeding water every 4 day or so (lucky to be a qtr cup of water). Mh is in a air cooled cool tube at 14 inches from top of her with with the back of the hand test done and all good. I can get it closer but will gradually do it in increments.

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I would try to wait a little bit longer if at all possible, like I said earlier, my biggest NL looked super weird and light green kind of like you describe for the first three weeks or so, then it started looking amazing. Thought it was some kind of mutant or something. Whenever you get a chance, post up some new pics. How many days have they been in the soil again?

whitnasty1 said:

I would try to wait a little bit longer if at all possible, like I said earlier, my biggest NL looked super weird and light green kind of like you describe for the first three weeks or so, then it started looking amazing. Thought it was some kind of mutant or something. Whenever you get a chance, post up some new pics. How many days have they been in the soil again?

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Ok I will wait a few weeks to feed then maybe?.I think around 2n a half weeks since germination she is today. I will get some pics up later but she's not a unhealthy yellow just more of a light green look to her not that darker green colour im use to on my plants. Hoping she's just a slow starter and will start shooting out n up soon. Cheers

If they're two and a half weeks right now, you can maybe feed in a week if they look like they need it. Bare minimum a week though. You want atleast 5 sets of leaves on them, or thereabouts before feeding and when you do feed, go EXTREMELY light. What kind of soil are you using again? If it's nothing hot or has no nutrients in it, you can feed sooner. I'll find some old pics of my NL'S around the 2 1/2 week mark so you can compare.I think you're doing fine though.

what latitude are you at ?
they are probably photo plants and outdoor conditions triggered the flowering

whitnasty1 said:

I would try to wait a little bit longer if at all possible, like I said earlier, my biggest NL looked super weird and light green kind of like you describe for the first three weeks or so, then it started looking amazing. Thought it was some kind of mutant or something. Whenever you get a chance, post up some new pics. How many days have they been in the soil again?

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No changes with her,although I can see the 5th set of leaves starting to poke up through the centre. I think she's just passed into her 3rd week and 1 day since germination.

BUMP!!!
BUMP!!!!
BUMP!!!!!

got a little lst action going

so hows your NL doin ?

Nice tek looks alot better then mine mate .She showed sex about a week ago and after the 5th set of leaves showed itself she's been steadily growing everyday. Is there anything else I should be doing now?.I'm light feeding every other day as leaves start fading to a yellowish if nutes not kept up. I've fed her 3 times now in 6 or so days and lights are 20 and 4 off,will 18hrs a day light finish me up with the same quantity if I would 20hrs?. Cheers mate. Sorry bowt shitty pics bars n all

if its showing sex then its probably at the micromachine point
some of them do that when the soil is to hot or from stunting from over watering
or the root chokes itself out
soil compaction
ph
there are a few variables
if the pots not heavy then its probably soil is too hot in the seedling stage

tekdc911 said:

if its showing sex then its probably at the micromachine point
some of them do that when the soil is to hot or from stunting from over watering
or the root chokes itself out
soil compaction
ph
there are a few variables
if the pots not heavy then its probably soil is too hot in the seedling stage

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It started showing sex into its 3rd week so yeh I think to the above post would be the first lot of soil I had it in for 2 weeks b4 transplant koz ph is in range,soil is loose and airy,and pot drys out fairly quickly with my mix. Do you do 18 or 20 hours with autos?. Cheers

i run 24/0
12 hrs 400w hps at night
roughly 300 w of mixed 68w cfl's during the day how cfl's stay cooler than a cool tube i have no idea
temps barely drop but the plants responded like crazy when i started the cfl's during the day think it might have something to do with the radiant heat or mixed spectrum i dunno
led's run 24/0

tekdc911 said:

i run 24/0
12 hrs 400w hps at night
roughly 300 w of mixed 68w cfl's during the day how cfl's stay cooler than a cool tube i have no idea
temps barely drop but the plants responded like crazy when i started the cfl's during the day think it might have something to do with the radiant heat or mixed spectrum i dunno
led's run 24/0

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well your doing something right coz it looks good mate. The temps here the last week have been very cold and only 19.8c at lights on and ive been working too much to get a lil heater for tent,will coldness stunt growth?. I took out my cfls when i got my 600w mh retro bulb do you think cfls in with the mh will help at this stage with spectrums or pointless as the 600w will outperform anything the cfls can put out?,just very curious if anything even more lighting will help at this stage as going on a month I thought she would be bigger then now just starting on her 6th set of leaves. Cheers

more lighting might help by bringing the temps up
mine stay happy at anywhere from 75f to 95f they move alot slower at colder temps
the top of the plant reflects the roots
something is keeping the roots from spreading
soil is too dense or
too hot maybe at first and burned the primary tap
soil might have too much moisture in it
its something below the surface
could very well be temps but 67 with lights on is a bit low IMO some stains like the cold weather

Cheers tek.
Ok so now today got me stressing as i planted a bubblelicious and nlxbb this same way 2 weeks ago so after stressing I fucked this lil one over I took a sick day off of work and spent most the day in grow room in tent and found the following fu#*ups and corrected as much as I could.

Temp problem sorted. I Have now got temps steady and sitting nicely on 25.9c + 59% humidity - I put a splitter on ducting so a small percentage stays in room raising temps and humidity whilst the rest goes out filtered thru air con ducting. I swear now 5 hours after I done it and checked on her she was perky as all hell and the whole plant is "screaming and trying to get to that light.

My current soil mix is fine mostly as when you pick up a handful you can feel the airiness in it and you know it's good,ya know.. I dug half way down the pot and found out it was a little to damp for my liking,not wet but very moist like u've just fed em. - got out drill and biggest drill bit I had and gently put holes all over the pot so it now resembles a drive by victim so that will help in drying.

Soil mix maybe also contributed to it. The first mix it was started in had a large amount of strong "organic" tomato seedlings and delicates additives in it which I never saw on bag but was told today at nursery so won't be using that again for autos atleast as its obviously to strong.
I think after today what I've done is all I can do now as problems were addressed and corrected and its up to her for a while now. I will wait on feeding until I'm happy the holes have worked and soil is totally dry. If the soil is dried out now will she grow larger or is it to late for that now being a auto. Also I'm gonna run lights on 24/7 for a week to help dry out and maybe give her the boost she needs?.