Roots
- Thread starter Sickbag
- Start date
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
If growing in containers with potting mix the key is only watering when very dry. The roots search around for moisture that way and if you are patient fill the entire pot with the root ball.
It is also important in my opinion to transplant up through veg. I use a 16 oz. party cup to sprout seeds or stick clones in to root. Then in about 2 weeks up to a 1 gallon. Grow and root in there for 2-3 weeks and up to a 3.
Each time even the seedling cup I wait until the stem can support the weight of the soil and root ball by itself or I feel it is too early.
Jdubb203
Well-Known Member
What type soil you using I reccommand making more airy for the roots. Add perlite or I do a 50/50 mix of fox farm ocean forest and coco roots go crazy cut veg time down at least 2 weeks every cycle.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
That's the answer for potting mix. Only water when dry and use a good fast draining mix.
Weak roots many times are just from water stress.
It's not like you gave any information about your grow for anyone to go on.
Weak roots many times are just from water stress.
It's not like you gave any information about your grow for anyone to go on.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
I don't know what you mean. You said your roots are poor. You give no growing info. I tried to help. You are making no sense.
Do your roots look like this?I just told you how to get them that way.
Do your roots look like this?I just told you how to get them that way.
GangusKush
Member
Good quality soil such as fox farm ocean forest and Mycorrhizal ,like great white shark or mykos! This is a fungi that works symbiotically with your roots, in a quite literal sense they are a secondary root system that helps increase food and water up take, keep in mind with the Mycorrhizal you may need to transplant more often than you want to.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
Half happy frog half ocean forest above.
GangusKush
Member
Mycorrhizal is key for root development though, and I didn't see you mention anything about it. The process happens naturally over a long time outdoors ,but rarely happens indoors. If you have not used mykos ,great white or products that's contain a wide variety of Mycorrhizal species , then you are not growing your plant to its full potential!
On a side note ,I've very interested in why you mix the 2 soils??, I've used both with different results and never thought of a combination of the two. Your plants healthy as can be ,and if there's some reason I should do it I'm all ears!
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
Sorry @GangusKush my comment got hidden in your quote above. Just open it. I couldn't edit it back out.
tstick
Well-Known Member
@Sickbag,
Here's what I do for good roots:
Check pH of water and adjust to 6.5. The water coming out the bottom should also be tested and should also be in the same pH range.
"Open" up the mix (especially with FF soil) by adding 25-50% more chunky perlite by volume. This will make the water drain quickly and leave a lot of open space for oxygen, as well.
I like to add a half cup (per cubic foot) of diatomaceous earth to my mix because it seems to mitigate soil-born pests (especially gnats) and is kind of a slow-release calcium. I've never had a calcium deficiency since adding it to my mix!
I also like to add a cup (per cubic foot) of kelp meal to the mix, too.
The water should drain quickly so as to draw a lot of air (and oxygen) behind it as it runs through the soil. Oxygen is essential for healthy roots!
I use organic fertilizer teas that contain mycorrhizae, as well. It's more difficult to acccidentally burn roots with organic fertilizer teas
Lastly, I have become a recent convert to fabric pots -as opposed to traditional plastic garden pots. I think they really help the roots. They dry out quicker and don't allow the roots to get root bound as easily.
Good luck grower!
Here's what I do for good roots:
Check pH of water and adjust to 6.5. The water coming out the bottom should also be tested and should also be in the same pH range.
"Open" up the mix (especially with FF soil) by adding 25-50% more chunky perlite by volume. This will make the water drain quickly and leave a lot of open space for oxygen, as well.
I like to add a half cup (per cubic foot) of diatomaceous earth to my mix because it seems to mitigate soil-born pests (especially gnats) and is kind of a slow-release calcium. I've never had a calcium deficiency since adding it to my mix!
I also like to add a cup (per cubic foot) of kelp meal to the mix, too.
The water should drain quickly so as to draw a lot of air (and oxygen) behind it as it runs through the soil. Oxygen is essential for healthy roots!
I use organic fertilizer teas that contain mycorrhizae, as well. It's more difficult to acccidentally burn roots with organic fertilizer teas
Lastly, I have become a recent convert to fabric pots -as opposed to traditional plastic garden pots. I think they really help the roots. They dry out quicker and don't allow the roots to get root bound as easily.
Good luck grower!
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
Diatomaceous Earth is made of silica. It doesn't help your calcium deficiency but it does possibly make your stems stronger and your leaves tougher.
tstick
Well-Known Member
Interesting! I was told by a gardener friend to use it as a slow-release calcium supplement. Maybe it's just coincidence, but I've never had a calcium deficiency issue since using it.
Coloradoclear
Well-Known Member
Definitely check your water, PH and dissolved solids since I am guessing you are not using RO water. Good water is often the missing link.