Rootbound plant during flowering, no space for a bigger pot? Solution?

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Hmm, 3-1-2 ratio for the NPK. Perfect on that.....

I wouldn't change to a "bloom" food! Just keep running what you got! Maybe a little lighter on the concentration/mix proportions if problems return.

The new pics don't show any yellowing any more.....new growth looks fine from this far away.......Keep going!

Even with the half gallon pot......The little one may need a bit more feeding if it's root bound.....If it looks like it's asking for more.....add a feeding to you routine or up the mix proportion a little bit....

Looks good .. RUN them !

Doc
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
One pf those threads im not reading.
To negate root bound issues, lower ppm/ec, increase airflow, temp at the rootzone +5-10. Canopy can hit 90

All your really doing is aiding transpiration. Using more water means you can receive the same Amount of nutes without burn. This is effectively what root bound is.

Ive pulled a lb out 1 little bag of dirt
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
too late for this one, but look for smart pots for your next round. fabric pots will not allow your plants to become rootbound
don't know about that man, I have rootbound all my smarties up to 7 gallons.
outside I have rootbound 50 gallon+
you maximize the soil area but you can easily get rootbound, hell I have a one gallon ivy plant that is rootbound, and those grow slow. Also a jasmine too. Solid roots.
 

Cannabil

Well-Known Member
don't know about that man, I have rootbound all my smarties up to 7 gallons.
outside I have rootbound 50 gallon+
you maximize the soil area but you can easily get rootbound, hell I have a one gallon ivy plant that is rootbound, and those grow slow. Also a jasmine too. Solid roots.
The basic model for plants is one gallon per foot. i doubt those little plants are root bound. I run 3 gallon containers on 6 week veg plants without issue thru bloom.

If anything I would say its a watering plant moisture problem (if u think u have been giving enough nutrients) i think Dr. who is right in saying they probably need more nitrogen and to continue feeding they definetely just look hungry to me.

If the plant was root bound growth would be stunted and crawling, and you would be getting deficiencies most likely (especially potassium).

I dont think your plants are root bound at all but you can also check them by cutting out a chunk of the container and looking at the roots. Or just pull the plant out of the container. You can transplant during flowering up to the 3rd week. Ive done it plenty of times. The run im doing right now I transplanted from 3 gallon to 7 gallons on day 17 and had no issues at all. Just be careful up rooting the plant from the container and dont fck w the roots too much and it will be fine.

If u want to transplant in bloom I would simply cut the pot off the container to avoid damaging the roots, make sure when you transplant that the medium is moist (not wet) and let them dry out good before watering or feeding again so the roots can stretch and try fill up some space in the new containers. Use a b vitamin product i like AN b52 but theres plenty others you can use and sprinkle some myco in the medium to help the roots take off.

Idk about feeding veg nutes for 3-4 weeks I would only feed veg nutes the first week and start cutting 50-50 until week 4 and switching to str8 bloom foods on a 10 wk variety. All that nitrogen in the veg food can inhibit flower development and stretch them out which you dont want. Or you can just get some straight nitrogen from humboldt verde or nature nectar N and use 1-2 ml/gallon with just bloom food for 2 weeks. Or use a tea and using worm casting or high N guano and root drench for a nice feeding and that should supply enough N to get you thru flowering. You shouldnt need much of it and only for a week or two.
 

Cannabil

Well-Known Member
If plants root bound u just need feed lower doses more often and water consistently when they get like 50% dry if u dont want to transplant.

Me personally if i think something is root bound i dont care when its in flowering as long as it before week 4 ill switch em into a bigger container they will love u for it
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
The basic model for plants is one gallon per foot. i doubt those little plants are root bound. I run 3 gallon containers on 6 week veg plants without issue thru bloom.

.
I disagree, with much of what you said, but don't care quite enough to argue (no disrespect intended, we all disagree at times), i cannot argue your results, but I ALWAYS have higher yields when I go by two gallons per foot of growth, for the strains I grow, in the soil recipe I use, I don't feed anything to my plant other than whats in the soil/compost already.
I DO agree with you that it isn't rootbound, I was merely saying for the future, that's the rule I go by, my argument was specifically in disagreement with what he said about fabric pots NOT getting rootbound, I have seen that hundreds of times.. literally.. Plus not to mention it's sorta hard to even go by a per foot type of thing, anyways, considering he is training the bejesus out of it. Growing it horizontally
But you are right, it's not rootbound. I never said it was, I was merely saying I go by two gals, per foot.
I disagree with ANY blanket statement regarding soil, too many variables, lights ventilation, strains, training methods, for instance I have a ton of different aeration amendments in my soil recipe, and due to that, I have much more success using at LEAST two gallons of soil media per foot of growth, but that's just me.
having different nutrients for different phases of the growth isn't needed, but people like to do it. Plus the nute companies are stoked that you buy three bottles instead of simply doing it cheaper and easier..
We are going to have to agree to disagree, as our growing techniques and philosophies are vastly different.
Not saying I am better, or my way is superior, but factually there are some things I disagree with you on.
but that's all good.
A billion ways to grow pot man, a billion.
 
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Hmm, 3-1-2 ratio for the NPK. Perfect on that.....

I wouldn't change to a "bloom" food! Just keep running what you got! Maybe a little lighter on the concentration/mix proportions if problems return.

The new pics don't show any yellowing any more.....new growth looks fine from this far away.......Keep going!

Even with the half gallon pot......The little one may need a bit more feeding if it's root bound.....If it looks like it's asking for more.....add a feeding to you routine or up the mix proportion a little bit....

Looks good .. RUN them !

Doc

Doc i just want to share update of my grow, does it look like sativa? Its been flowering now for 2 weeks, under 105w cfls, about 18inches tall from the tim to the soil.

I've read that sativas will be taller than indicas, when can i expect to see the buds fill up and thicken? Next week? The fourth week or fifth?


Sorry to bother this thread guys, do u think my plant is rootbound? Its on a 1 gallon pot and the plant is 18+ inches tall. I'm still seeing growth and no problems yet.

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Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I would up pot to a 3 gallon .....The plant can triple in size as a Sativa. It looks like a long one too say 12 weeks minimum....Sativa's can go 16 weeks just depends on what one you have....Be patient on the buds ok? It takes the whole bloom to finish buds....They do most of their "bulking" in the LAST 2 weeks.

Looks good as far as feeding goes.....Don't start the bloom food to early, sativa's are fussy feeders and like more N longer into bloom over "Indies"....Use the veg to week 4..

Doc
 
I would up pot to a 3 gallon .....The plant can triple in size as a Sativa. It looks like a long one too say 12 weeks minimum....Sativa's can go 16 weeks just depends on what one you have....Be patient on the buds ok? It takes the whole bloom to finish buds....They do most of their "bulking" in the LAST 2 weeks.

Looks good as far as feeding goes.....Don't start the bloom food to early, sativa's are fussy feeders and like more N longer into bloom over "Indies"....Use the veg to week 4..

Doc
Doc, heres my update entering 4th week of flowering, why do the buds/budsites look like stretching? And the budsites(along the nodes of the entire stalk) still dont have pistils forming, they are just stretching, the buds look like they are growing longer. Also, on top of the colas, i still dont see any pistils, just new leaf growth, Do this look normal to you?

Im still just using plain h20 without nutes, i still dont have bloom nutes, i just have the fertilizers ive used during veg.state. tomorrow ill buy some and should i start feeding bloom nutrients to it?

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greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Doc, heres my update entering 4th week of flowering, why do the buds/budsites look like stretching? And the budsites(along the nodes of the entire stalk) still dont have pistils forming, they are just stretching, the buds look like they are growing longer. Also, on top of the colas, i still dont see any pistils, just new leaf growth, Do this look normal to you?

Im still just using plain h20 without nutes, i still dont have bloom nutes, i just have the fertilizers ive used during veg.state. tomorrow ill buy some and should i start feeding bloom nutrients to it?

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View attachment 3478467
hah diggin the container man!
And don't sweat the stretching, you got yourself a sativa there my friend.
I would double check you have a light-tight room though, typically @ 4 weeks you'll see more pistil formation.
BUT that being said, I've grown sativas that don't start actually flowering for 35 days or so after triggering, but I do see pistil formation on those.
So make sure it's light proof, and on a scheduled 12/12
 
Haha its spongebob getting super high! Haha i can see pistils at the nodes below, the first born pistils are now turning brown/red(I've read that its becoming old) but on upper of the colas i see 2 pistil growths on every node, but on top, i can only see new leaf growth, no bud formation yet.

About the light tight room, i may have a light leak due to the exhaust fan, I've done some adjustments and now even the exhaust holes are light proof.

If i might have a light leak the past 3 weeks, does that count for flowering week or is that considered as vegetating week? I can see new pistils almost everyday growing,

I hope i didnt stressed my plant due to maybe a small light leak,

Really? Do u see some pistil formation? On what part? Top of the colas or along the stalks?

Ive been flushing my plant for 3 weeks, getting rid of any veg nutes i used. Do i need to feed bloom nutes this time? Thanks bro ill update you on my grow
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Once you see solid bud formations, say 4+ weeks in.....drop the lighting time down to 11/13.......I never run 12/12 at all......I find the plants to run more "stable" at 11/13.....
Doc
 

Cannabil

Well-Known Member
DJ Short talks about using 11/13 to induce pheno traits like purpling or strain specific expressions in certain varieties that wouldnt come out during the normal 12/12 cycle.

But running an 11/13 cycle is robbing your plants of 8-9% of flowering growth for the lights on period and results in less weight yielded. So why would anyone want to do this just to make their strains turn more purple or exhibit certain strain specific qualities (whatever they may be).

This topic was discussed extensively at the last big grow summit they had out in Colorado. Noone agreed with him that using that cycle was beneficial to the plant other then enabling the strains to exhibit certain characteristics available through their genetics. And many said simply growing strains correctly and providing them the proper environment will do the same exact thing. All the other major breeders and big time growers stated a 12/12 light cycle is the absolute best light cycle to run for overall quality and health. You can read or listen to the entire conversation online.

Only other time I have ever heard of using an 11/13 Is during the final 2 weeks of harvest. This cycle is used to induce ripening, but thats not needed or recommended whatsoever and will effect final yields. Idk why anyone would want to use this light cycle. Thats just another weird thing that people come up with who want to just do shit differently for no valued reasoning.
 
hah diggin the container man!
And don't sweat the stretching, you got yourself a sativa there my friend.
I would double check you have a light-tight room though, typically @ 4 weeks you'll see more pistil formation.
BUT that being said, I've grown sativas that don't start actually flowering for 35 days or so after triggering, but I do see pistil formation on those.
So make sure it's light proof, and on a scheduled 12/12
Man, can u check out my post above, what can u say?
 
Once you see solid bud formations, say 4+ weeks in.....drop the lighting time down to 11/13.......I never run 12/12 at all......I find the plants to run more "stable" at 11/13.....
Doc
Im now running it at 11/13 hehe, is it also true that it can induce more flowering, i mean, can i see bud formation earlier than when using 12/12?
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Im now running it at 11/13 hehe, is it also true that it can induce more flowering, i mean, can i see bud formation earlier than when using 12/12?
You are quite correct King!

Not to question your "summit" there Cannabil but, It is being quite contested the 12/12 light time for blooming cannabis.
In reality. 12/12 is rather long for a cannabis plant as far as full on time for flowering....speaking botanically, it is considered a short day long night plant!

LOTS of testing going on as far as shorter lighting bloom times.....I've done it down to 6/18....The plant flowers very fast. The thing is you can lose 20% of your yield....That can be increased with higher effective lighting concentrations with better spectral spreads too.
With those adjustments in place you can reach 90+% effective yields as low as 7-8/16 and parity is reached at about 9-10 hrs on time.

The argument for a full 12/12 is rather moot...11/13 looses nothing but electrical bills and you gain better plant stability..Even with strains prone to nanner hermie's......FAR less herming at 11/13! That's plant stability! That is far more important in my book!

By adding that extra hour of light. you inhibit the plant from gaining it's natural growth traits! All the while you, in the long run, have really,,gained nothing from that extra hr!

Mr Short is very right!
Everyone else needs to actually do some testing and think outside the old accepted box!

Look man. I've done this for 41 years. I've done the testing myself....
I run commercial ops and a personal for testing and breeding....I run 11/13...do what you want for yourself..BUT that piddly little 8.333 % does nothing to assist the plant in gaining any yield ....

Your friend
Doc :peace: :blsmoke::peace:
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Hello doc what's up

How ya doin bro, i just want to share my micro grow what can u say about it, does it look sativa or indica? Im on flowering stage right now its been 4 days since ive switch my clycle to 12/12 and im seeing white hairs already on one budsite, i hope after a week all budsites will have trichomes, as what ur saying about nutes, can i still use my current fertilizer?
24-8-16, ive used it once on vegetative stage, can i use it again? For the meantime cause i still dont have mu bloom nutes,,Just to give my plants some Nitrogen a little bit cause im also using small pot, 1gal pot. What do u think ? Little advice will help a lot bro . Thanks! View attachment 3459632

This one is on a half gallon pot
View attachment 3459635
Hmm 4-1-2 ratio....not bad, not bad.....I might cut the next feeding by reducing the mix to 50%....But yeah feed it....

Coolbeans on the rest dude! Looking GOOD!

Don't worry about bloom feed till week 3

Doc
 
Thanks doc, i will try to experiment the light sched,

Just by looking at this picture doc, how old does it look like? Im confused about when to start counting the flowering weeks, If u have grown a sativa, Does it look like day 1 of flowering ? Or 30 days of flowering sativa? Or worst, they haven't started flowering? Waaaah. Or am i just rushing things up and i should just wait and have a lot of patience? Haha
2015-08-16 03.51.04.jpg
 
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greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Haha its spongebob getting super high! Haha i can see pistils at the nodes below, the first born pistils are now turning brown/red(I've read that its becoming old) but on upper of the colas i see 2 pistil growths on every node, but on top, i can only see new leaf growth, no bud formation yet.

About the light tight room, i may have a light leak due to the exhaust fan, I've done some adjustments and now even the exhaust holes are light proof.

If i might have a light leak the past 3 weeks, does that count for flowering week or is that considered as vegetating week? I can see new pistils almost everyday growing,

I hope i didnt stressed my plant due to maybe a small light leak,

Really? Do u see some pistil formation? On what part? Top of the colas or along the stalks?

Ive been flushing my plant for 3 weeks, getting rid of any veg nutes i used. Do i need to feed bloom nutes this time? Thanks bro ill update you on my grow
don't use flushing for any reason.
It may be pissed from that.
light leaks can and will confuse a plant, and delay flowering, some strains may develop male flowers.
those "first born pistils" are just preflowers.
Forget about using different nutrients for flowering vs veg
 
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