Root additive or stimulator

So here's the deal. My roots are growing great, but are starting to slightly brown. I'm not too concerned just I rather take preventative measures to make sure they stay healthy.
I've looked at supper thrive but my I don't think they need that. I remember seeing some where in a thread an additive that gets rid of dead matter but does no harm to anything living.

Thanks

Chlorine (preferred) or H2O2 . You are thinking hygrozyme for dead roots. It will not rid you of root rot though. I found ZONE to work well in hydro for pythium prevention and root health.

Mainly I'm looking to prevent alge. I just ordered a res chiller and in the mean time just want to make sure everything is ok.
I was reading up on using chlorine, thing about that is the ratio to use. I know that in small doses it's cool to use but what is considered a small dose???
Its not one of those things you want to find out later. Lol

jcdws602 said:

Click to expand...

this dudes got it right..roots excelerator is the bomdizzle..lol...it will keep em healthy and prevent root rot...bottom line it makes healthy the whole grow

6-8 drops per gallon of unscented clorox, look up the page i just red it , its titled bleech instead of H2O2, Fatman summed it up there

Try Hygrozyme. I swear by it.

It is a choice of two approaches. One is to put your faith in mj nutrients suppliers that are very often deceptive or flat out liars. Their methods are based around lining their pockets with money. There present approach is selling what they call beneficial bacteria microbes, enzynes and fungis. They call it just about anything and every thing. When you get down to the basics they are selling you composted chicken manure or the leachette (fluid that drains from) a composted pile of chicken manure. The bacteria and enzymes etc are naturally present in soils, and in all organic plants roots. They when corned make the claim that the heat generated by composting kills non beneficial bacteria, enzymes, pathogens but not the beneficial ones. This is pretty far fetched as the temperature required for this killing requires very carefully mangaement of the composting material. The nutrient manafacturers do not do this composting. They just buy what ever they get. There are no regulations for this supplement or the compost usedin it. Secondly you have to considerboth beneficial and non beneficial organisms are killed. There use to be a organism import by hygrozyme that withstood the heat of composting. It is no longer being used. Then consider thatthe bacteria, enzymes, pathogens almost immediattely start growing in the compost after the maure has finished composting. In a nut shell they are just selling composted chicken farm rotted manure to you.

The second choice is to run a sterile system. This means do not introduce any organic fertilizers or supllement and disinfect your systen woith chlorine or hydrogen peroxide. For chlorine you use a strong dose of 4 to 8 drops per gallon initially then 24 hours later use 1 drop per gallon. This 1 drop per gallon can be continued indefinitely to maintain a sterile system.

the hygrozyme was originally formulated for use on SURGICAL instruments and the food industry. i would take Fatman's word for it, but time and time again i have used h'zyme and never failed me. if you have full blown root rot, used properly you will defeat root rot in 5 days. as for stimulators the only thing i ever used was root66 and my roots exploded, in conjunction with hygrozyme your root system can recover from nuclear holocaust/ along the lines of what Fatman said, hygrozyme is an enzyme product, i am no scientist but dont we in our bodies use enzymes in our intestines to break down waste? i totally agree with FM again on depending what kinds of nutrients you use should dicatate what kind of protection, if using chemmy salty nutes run peroxide, if useing nutrients with microbials in them like guanos and kelps h202 isnt friendly with these, use enzymes or innoculate with beneficials

morrisgreenberg said:

the hygrozyme was originally formulated for use on SURGICAL instruments and the food industry. No, it has nothing to do with the food industry or use on surgical instruments. In the days of the EPA super fund massive spending on environmental clean up college researchers proved that common enzymes and bacteria found in soil will feed on petroleum products such as fuel oil, asplhaltic oils, solvents and just about any products in a liquid form made from petroleum. Several environmental engineers set up a culturing facility to culture the bacteria and enzymes in high concentrations to use for in situ clean ups (remediation). In situ means the contaminated soil or water is not dug up/pumped up and treated, but instead the bacteria and enzymes are added to the area of contamination. They then feed the bacteria and enzymes fertilizers and the enzymes and bacteria break down the petroleum products as a carbon source for building their own bodies. IE oil removal in place. How ever once the republicans (the first Bush) won the presidency the house and senate majority seats the clean up money stopped. This meant the engineers had no sells so their bacteria then became a horticultural product. Most large commercial growers laughed at that and do not buy the products. That left a MJ growing market as their chief market. The bacteria was cultured in chicken compost as it contained naturally all the enzymes, the bacteria and food plus a carbon source Originally they added for the horticultural product a south American obtained enzyme that was heat tolerant as they claimed the other bacteria and enzymes were killed by heat from composting but the special compost was not and that meant it was an effective prevention aid against pythium. They no longer use/add that enzyme or make those claims. Now you just get the leachate from composted chicken manure. Leachate is the drainage of juices and water from the compost. IE concentrate. They specifically state they do not make any claims that it is an effective treatment for root rot but that it is a good method of hopefully preventing root rot from starting. They state the best way to deal with root rot is through cleanliness and other preventive measures such as the use of Grozny. They have stated that some or their customers have made claims of successful treatment of root rot with hygrozyme. Yeah right. Fatman's word for it, but time and time again i have used h'zyme and never failed me. if you have full blown root rot, used properly you will defeat root rot in 5 days. I very, very much doubt that.as for stimulators the only thing i ever used was root66 and my roots exploded, in conjunction with hygrozyme your root system can recover from nuclear holocaust/ along the lines of what Fatman said, hygrozyme is an enzyme product, i am no scientist but dont we in our bodies use enzymes in our intestines to break down waste? i totally agree with FM again on depending what kinds of nutrients you use should dicatate what kind of protection, if using chemmy salty nutes run peroxide, if useing nutrients with microbials in them like guanos and kelps h202 isnt friendly with these, use enzymes or innoculate with beneficials

Click to expand...

I have to agree that for organic nutrient systems the only effective preventative measure other than cleanliness and a properly designed and run system is the use of products such as hygrozyme. I really discourage anyone from believing they are treatment methods for root rot however. Even with hygrozyme type treatments if your roots are dying due to insufficient DO then the use of hygrozyme will not stop the root death. t can possibly slow low the onset of root rot. Even preventing it is not likely. Lessening its severity? Yes. The best thing is better system design and operation. For a chemical nutrients system maintain a sterile system. This means Chlorine. Chlorine has a residual treatment, meaning it continues to disinfect and maintain a sterile system for approx 24 hours pre treatment Hydrogen peroxide has no residual effect. It disinfects and what is b not used as an oxidizer is simply out gases as O2 within minutes. Do not use any oxidant such as H2O2, chlorox or ozone with any organics (soil, nutrients or supplements) as it kills all enzymes and bacteria.

truth be known. Go to any chicken or egg farm and get a bucket full of chicken manure. Poke a few small holes in the bottom of the bucket. Pour some water in the bucket (1/4) of a bucket full. Collect the water after it runs out. Pour it through the bucket again and again, until your bored with it. That nasty water you have is hygrozyme. Get the point. Only mj growers will pay what they ask for such a product. Even horse or cow manure will work just fine. As long as they are being fed grain and corn and not just pasture grass and hay. Beef cattle manure mixed with straw or wood chips, rotted or composted works great for obtaining a generic hygrozyme. Remember what your buying next time you look at the prices.

thats the misconception, most people who are looking for a cure-all see the price of hygrozyme and believe thats its a miracle cure for plants ills, before even applying anything inlcuding chemicals and enzymes we must identify the cause of any problems by what Fatman says properly designs and clean running systems , if this is not achieved nothing out there will help, poor oxygen levels in water, light leaks and higher temps...if these issues are not worked out before you put plants into a system forget it, no hydro for you. from my point of view, root rot scared me so much that i will do anything to prevent it again, even if spending $150 for a gallon of chicken shit as long as it works along with chillers. also if i wasnt using PBP line and ran salt based nutes i would be using bleach myself, but for now i like my results, we tend to go with what we know works in this game of ours