Joedank
Well-Known Member
i sometimes dont ammend just plant and top dress as i go depending on plant look...lol
Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread
- Thread starter headtreep
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blackswampgenetics
Member
Ok so do you remove the cut stalk and some of the roots or just plant beside it ? my concern is the new cutting getting root bound after time. I might be over thinking this just want to make sure lol Thanks Joe
st0wandgrow
Well-Known Member
Some people just plug a clone right in there after chop. I was re-amending and laying down some EWC and fresh soil on top, then planting a clover cover-crop, then leaving the containers fallow for 3-4 weeks.
I'll be honest with you though, after running no-till for a while I'm not a fan of it. I think the soil gets too compacted over time and the roots begin to get starved of oxygen. At least that was my experience. I think the soil benefits from being dumped out, re-amended, and fluffed up a bit. Just my opinion.
blackswampgenetics
Member
Thank You that answered my concerns.I'm going to play around with no till still but the soil re-amending was the way I was leaning. I felt like letting the no till sit for a few weeks was a good idea but just wasn't seeing anyone committing to letting it sit or plant directly into it. Thanks again you have been a big help!!!
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
I agree, i'd say to be safe, every three runs you should do that, or every yr or so.
I don't reamend until I empty them, but I don't have the flowering ladies in their final pots for much longer than the flowering time, I trans about 10-15 days prior to flowering
keepitcoastal
Well-Known Member
Dealing with my first aphid problem in years. 4 weeks in flower. I know how to kill them... But not without killing off my micro herd and effecting taste of Meds. Anybody have an organic safe defense or killer that's okay for flowering that YOU HAVE USED BEFORE. A lot of guys tend to read shit off here and then spew it off as fact like they have done it before when in fact they haven't..
For example people telling others to just put perlite on top of all the pots for gnats. Iv done this for years but it has zero benefit if you don't crush the perlite up into a powder basically. Otherwise just a waist of money.... I see people all the time saying just fill top of pots with perlite...... Sorry but that won't do it as soon as you water and wash the powders away they crawl right through the perlite
For example people telling others to just put perlite on top of all the pots for gnats. Iv done this for years but it has zero benefit if you don't crush the perlite up into a powder basically. Otherwise just a waist of money.... I see people all the time saying just fill top of pots with perlite...... Sorry but that won't do it as soon as you water and wash the powders away they crawl right through the perlite
Pattahabi
Well-Known Member
No doubt lmfao!! I get so sick of people reading something and then spewing it out like they have done it. I try and add a disclaimer like, I don't have any experience with broad mites, but these are what some growers I respect have tried. With that said, don't want to insult your intelligence, but how do do you know you have aphids? I'm assuming you are referring to root aphids?
Peace!
P-
hyroot
Well-Known Member
I disagree. I do both ways as my space is limited. I get better results now just replanting right away or at least a week later. There's nutes on the roots. Those pathways created by the old roots are still there. I used to let everything breakdown first then replant. Since I've been expanding I dont do that.
I replant 2 gals. Not clones or seedlings. So.i.dig out that space. Then add recycled soil , castings, compost on top. Then topdress amendments. Then a thin layer of recycled soil / castings / compost. Then clover seeds then another layer of soil / castings / compost. My last harvest was with 5th run on that pot with 4 year old soil
I replant 2 gals. Not clones or seedlings. So.i.dig out that space. Then add recycled soil , castings, compost on top. Then topdress amendments. Then a thin layer of recycled soil / castings / compost. Then clover seeds then another layer of soil / castings / compost. My last harvest was with 5th run on that pot with 4 year old soil
Joedank
Well-Known Member
yea i pull out a buch of root mass although many dont.. it all works
blackswampgenetics
Member
Thanks hyroot. I will try your suggestion also.
foreverflyhi
Well-Known Member
I agree with stow, it's crazy how dense the soil gets. I remember 5 gallons turning into 7 or 8 gallons through out a couple grows
Midwest Weedist
Well-Known Member
Could whatever was used as a base and an aeration amendment come into play with soil compaction? Obviously something like rice hulls will decompose to little more than nothing, but something like black lava rock should last longer than any of our bodies will without compacting, correct?
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Did you cover at LEAST 2 inches??no it won't eradicate them, never said so.....................different grades of perlite, if your using coarse==== well I don't wanna sound rude
I never tried no-till....................old habits die hard, I even re-structure my soil every run....lol
earthling420
Well-Known Member
What yall think? she's about 2 weeks into flower. some pistils already changed color. gonna be my first organic harvest! been takin good care of her when I noticed some dying leaves that didn't seem to be from the switch. lots of aloe and silica and neem foliars at low dosages besides the aloe, which is still never more than 2 tbls. Lots of praying 
im attributing most of her health to the aloe though haha
I last min lst'd before flower. never done it til now. I think next run ill try a screen amd compare. still tryna get that flat top
im attributing most of her health to the aloe though haha I last min lst'd before flower. never done it til now. I think next run ill try a screen amd compare. still tryna get that flat top
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Mad Hamish
Well-Known Member
It seems to work fine plugging them right in if there is not going to be much veg after that, however my no till pots with vegging ladies do NOT work as well as my usual method of dumping out the soil and resting it for a little, sometimes some extra compost and perlite but not much more. About to re amend and I feel it will kick no till in the balls far as my goals are concerned. Overall I will use no till in SoG kind of scenarios with over size pots any day that worked very well, but for my older girls just normal ROLS.
AllDayToker
Well-Known Member
I've doing just classic ROLS with great success.
Every run I dump soil, breakit up and allow roots to dry, I'll throw some domolite lime and castings/compost in every run.
I'll re-amend it every few runs with fresh and dried fan leaves, brown and green, alfalfa and kelp meal, maybe a handful of a few other thing laying around, water down a bit with fresh microbe tea, then boom ready to roll.
Never have to feed in veg typically. Don't have to feed until a few weeks into flower, which I typically only give alfalfa/kelp teas for nutes, and ewc/compost teas for microbes. I do a lot of microbe teas. I'll top dress from time to time for insurance or if they look like they could use a boost.
Been using the same soil for probably 4 years by now. I keep it simple with a very small list of extra amendments.
Every run I dump soil, breakit up and allow roots to dry, I'll throw some domolite lime and castings/compost in every run.
I'll re-amend it every few runs with fresh and dried fan leaves, brown and green, alfalfa and kelp meal, maybe a handful of a few other thing laying around, water down a bit with fresh microbe tea, then boom ready to roll.
Never have to feed in veg typically. Don't have to feed until a few weeks into flower, which I typically only give alfalfa/kelp teas for nutes, and ewc/compost teas for microbes. I do a lot of microbe teas. I'll top dress from time to time for insurance or if they look like they could use a boost.
Been using the same soil for probably 4 years by now. I keep it simple with a very small list of extra amendments.
Midwest Weedist
Well-Known Member
I've found too that vegging for a long time will drain smaller soil masses of nutrients. I've got one lady in a fabric 3 gallon that was vegged for damn near two and a half months. If I don't top dress and feed teas I guarantee she won't make it through til the end.
Mad Hamish
Well-Known Member
I was thinking over three weeks as a 'longer' veg period I should have been more specific. So vegging anything over three weeks, I don't like no till, but for anything faster it is boss.
Mad Hamish
Well-Known Member
I make certain to feed nothing in flower. If some girls come short on food they will get a hotter mix next run, but a little compost over some well built soil and hey presto all they need for flower is an up can. Up canning is the best way to feed IMO.
keepitcoastal
Well-Known Member
Anybody ever used criterion wsp 75 in flowering?