RDWC PPM when using Tea

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Aqua Man

Well-Known Member
thekevin07 said:
Thx ill get some. Maybe I could copy your exact setup? Here are my measurements:

Temp day: 78-80 night: 68-70
Humidity day: 65% night 60%
water: 200ppm temp 68-70
Light: pending lights on at 5
Fans: 2x blowing down gently
CO2: in progress
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looks good to me for early plants maybe week 1-3.
 
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thekevin07

Well-Known Member
Aqua Man said:
looks good to me for early plants maybe week 1-3.
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Thank you so much again for all the help. I will stay the course. Post updates as they come. In the past plants go stagnant and stop growing roots too but I think that was my water level and lack of top feeding.

It might just be me but I think the roots are growing or at least appearing to get longer.

I did change one small thing. Instead of top feeding daily, I utilized the recycle timer on my autopilot master timer. Hooked up 6 black hole plant feeders with a pump and am top feeding with those. I have the timer set to on 20 seconds and off for 2 hours. What do you think?

My hope is the plants that had a smaller root ball too short to fit through the basket will be encouraged to grow roots longer and faster.
 
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thekevin07

Well-Known Member
My roots look good but the whole plant is starting to show yellowing and drooping and stress in others. Some of the plant leaves have strange white spots on them that I thought were bugs or maybe powdery mildew. I couldn’t find any bugs. I’ve been spraying them with green clean but the spots are still there. I also turned off humidity just to be safe but 60% should be fine.

what’s confusing is 1 plant has whole plant yellowing. A few others have tip burn and some are yellowing from the bottom up. I also attached a pic of the white splotches using a microscope
 

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thekevin07

Well-Known Member
thekevin07 said:
My roots look good but the whole plant is starting to show yellowing and drooping and stress in others. Some of the plant leaves have strange white spots on them that I thought were bugs or maybe powdery mildew. I couldn’t find any bugs. I’ve been spraying them with green clean but the spots are still there. I also turned off humidity just to be safe but 60% should be fine.

what’s confusing is 1 plant has whole plant yellowing. A few others have tip burn and some are yellowing from the bottom up. I also attached a pic of the white splotches using a microscope
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The ppm wasn’t 200 it was 150... I bumped it up to 190. My guess is ppm deficit. If they look better I’ll add more. I thought I added enough to get it too 200 but this current culture stuff is really diluted it seams.
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
The top feed should help,net pot should be about 1/4~1/2" above the water.Bubbles will splash up soaking the clay pebbles.For a quick fix foiler feed .5ml/L calmag and a drop of plain dish soap.This will help them green up.Calmag should also be in your nute water.
That one pic sure looks like bugs,spots on leaves.
 
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thekevin07

Well-Known Member
myke said:
The top feed should help,net pot should be about 1/4~1/2" above the water.Bubbles will splash up soaking the clay pebbles.For a quick fix foiler feed .5ml/L calmag and a drop of plain dish soap.This will help them green up.Calmag should also be in your nute water.
That one pic sure looks like bugs,spots on leaves.
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It is I adjusted it slightly per current culture recommendations and I have been adding cal mag to the res. The current culture instructions have me adding twice as much Calmag then veg a B but this stuff seams diluted so I’ve been matching what I put in. I don’t have any of the UC Coco which is theirs but I have plenty other calmag. Do I need more?

the pics from the microscope are a close up of the white spots and there is nothing under my leaves to suggest bugs.
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
thekevin07 said:
It is I adjusted it slightly per current culture recommendations and I have been adding cal mag to the res. The current culture instructions have me adding twice as much Calmag then veg a B but this stuff seams diluted so I’ve been matching what I put in. I don’t have any of the UC Coco which is theirs but I have plenty other calmag. Do I need more?

the pics from the microscope are a close up of the white spots and there is nothing under my leaves to suggest bugs.
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calmag to 100 ppm is what i use,you could go less say 80 ppm.thats about .5ml/l.Your using ro water?if so 100ppm.Post pic of your nutes and calmag,Aqua man will want to see them.
 
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thekevin07

Well-Known Member
Turns out my numbers were wrong. For every 20ml of each veg a+b I was adding 10ml of calmag. I am using Ro I’m tempted to drain the system and start the feed schedule over with 100ppm calmag. I sprayed em off though ph was 6.
 

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myke

myke

Well-Known Member
thekevin07 said:
Turns out my numbers were wrong. For every 20ml of each veg a+b I was adding 10ml of calmag. I am using Ro I’m tempted to drain the system and start the feed schedule over with 100ppm calmag. I sprayed em off though ph was 6.
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need to see the numbers /value of npk.of nutes.edit i see them so 6.3~2~6.2 calmag 2~0~0 so your high in N .next bottle of calmag get 1~0~0 GH brand.

mix your nutes at ml per litre or gallon which ever u prefer.200 ppm total of food,100 of calmag so 300 ppm total.once they start growing then can up the food.
 
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thekevin07

Well-Known Member
I have a large cache of plants growing in rocks and Hydroton. My point is I have plenty to toss at this hydro system

I have the Botanicare nute in my cart. I’m going to get it when these plants show improvement. It’s cheaper then the current culture nute with the same changeout schedule.
 
rkymtnman

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
thekevin07 said:
I put plenty of UC Roots in and I still got root rot. What else should I add to keep it sterile.
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i saw your other post where your temps at 68F with chiller. have you verified this with a thermometer?

and if you are at 68F (just about perfect) AND UC roots and you are still getting rot, you have an issue somewhere else would be my guess.

you sure you got enough DO (dissolved Oxygen)?

what EC/ppm are you trying to run? i only feed at 250 or so ppm in dwc. less is more with nutes in dwc. and i wouldn't switch to organics in dwc either. you'll have a soup of some nasty stuff.
 
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thekevin07

Well-Known Member
rkymtnman said:
i saw your other post where your temps at 68F with chiller. have you verified this with a thermometer?

and if you are at 68F (just about perfect) AND UC roots and you are still getting rot, you have an issue somewhere else would be my guess.

you sure you got enough DO (dissolved Oxygen)?

what EC/ppm are you trying to run? i only feed at 250 or so ppm in dwc. less is more with nutes in dwc. and i wouldn't switch to organics in dwc either. you'll have a soup of some nasty stuff.
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I’m trying to run 200ppm and yes temp is good and I don’t know how much d.o. I have but I’m sure it’s enough as my pump shipped with the system. Current culture uc6xl.
 
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