GBAUTO
Well-Known Member
Made my drill SCREAMThe ONLY downside is that one could accidentally plug a 120v appliance in that receptacle, that is the ONLY problem with doing this.
Made my drill SCREAMThe ONLY downside is that one could accidentally plug a 120v appliance in that receptacle, that is the ONLY problem with doing this.
Bullshits ass I’m an actual electrician and giving someone advice to use a plus rated at 120 for 240 is ficking ignorant at the leastBullshit. It may not be technically correct by code but the receptacle will work just fine at 240. The color of the screws doesn't make a difference. The ONLY downside is that one could accidentally plug a 120v appliance in that receptacle, that is the ONLY problem with doing this.
Believe it or not, all receptacles are rated for 250v. If you are a sparky, you aren't a very good one.Bullshits ass I’m an actual electrician and giving someone advice to use a plus rated at 120 for 240 is ficking ignorant at the least
Yes its ignorant from an electricians point of view. My outlets are orange industrial plus I'll ingrave that one 220 v on the plate, plus it will be seven ft. off the floor. This set up is not residential in no way, it's all industrial. I should have had 220 coming in in the first place. I'll put it to code as soon as I can. ThanksBullshits ass I’m an actual electrician and giving someone advice to use a plus rated at 120 for 240 is ficking ignorant at the least
It was noted from the manufacturer they were sending a 110 v cord ( due to demand) but the ballast was 220 only. I'll keep my laser on it to make sure temps stay in line. I think most regular people really prefer this method. I understand your point of view and appreciate it. I do wish the cord was 14 gage but it's 16 g.Not to mention a 240 plug isn’t going to even fit a 120
Right they sent a 120 cord because they said all the request were for 110 because apparently this is what all the growers in USA are keen to wire their outlets as I have seen here .This seems to be the unspoken universal way in the states, and it likly eliminates another part in the ballast. I hate to say it but where I live there is are no permits required to build anything. There are no inspectors, their is no code unless its barrowed, but we do not go out of our way to kill one another unlike the CCP, may be that's why they sent me the 110 cord ya think?Look closely at a receptacle, it should be marked 125/250V
Trust me, they will handle the voltage. The smart thing he did is using a 20 amp rated receptacle on a 20 amp feed.
He used this receptacle because he probably doesn't have a 240 volt cord.
For less than 3 amps a 16 gauge cord is plenty.It was noted from the manufacturer they were sending a 110 v cord ( due to demand) but the ballast was 220 only. I'll keep my laser on it to make sure temps stay in line. I think most regular people really prefer this method. I understand your point of view and appreciate it. I do wish the cord was 14 gage but it's 16 g.
Good to know thanks.For less than 3 amps a 16 gauge cord is plenty.
Are you in north america?Good to know thanks.
Went looking for the timer you suggested, but they don't sell them here. If I drove a few hours I might find them. With COVID Amazon adds about a week. I'll need those parts before I want to go further. Thanks Again
Well it's nominal voltage, there is some variance, I have seen my meter here showing mains at 116.3 all the way up to 124.7. On really hot summer afternoons it will dip low due to the load on the grid. During the cool winte nights over 120 is very common here. Shows a pretty taxed grid out here in Colorado. Back when I was in Missouri it was 119.9 - 120.1 constantly, never strayed unless the power went out. Power was half the price for a kWh there too.funny I always heard 110 in the USA.