Question. Which Methods of Cloning Are You Guys Using?

M

MISSPHOEBE

Well-Known Member
OOOOOOOOoo im sad!

My black Domina clone must have been TOO wet....... coz after almost 2 weeks theres no roots :( an its gone all squishyyyyyyyyyyyyy an moldyyyyyyyyyyyy :(
 
M

MISSPHOEBE

Well-Known Member
aaaaaaaaaa hhhhhhhhh I dont believe it!

My Lemon Skunk clone is now all dried up and over heated and dyingggggggggggggggggggggggg

I smegged """" it all up!

Poo Poo

Boo Hoo

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (stomping off! to sulk in corner! why? why? why?)
 
B

Baxters

Well-Known Member
I use 6cm (2¼ inch) pots with seed/cutting compost and keep them in a temperature regulated propagator, I keep the vents open slightly and a pen wedges between the lid and the base.

If they start to wilt I close the vents for a few hours until they recover; doing this keeps air circulating and helps to stop damping off (the slushy stems)
After three days I remove the dome and see if they wilt, if they do I then re-cover them and try again the next day; I believe this forces them to transpire which in turn forces them to root sooner.

Also the heated propagator is controlled by a central heating thermostat to keep an absolute stable temperature night and day; I found that adding the thermostat increased my success rate from about 80% to 100% and I believe it’s because the heated propagator prevented the nighttime temperatures from going too low and allow damping off to occur.

The propagator without the thermostat was too warm 90°F and actually made matters worse, so I decided to make it controllable and have it set to 80°F.

Another thing to remember with clones is the state of the donor; Nitrogen inhibits root development so don’t take clones after you just fed your plants, also take cutting from fresh flexible non woody parts which are high in sugars, and the longer the clone the better.
I believe auxins produced in the tip inhibit root growth and the further away from the tip your cut is, the lower the concentration of the root inhibiting auxins are.

I go by the rule of thumb cuts must be at least 100mm in length and 5mm in thickness.

I also believe most people probably over water their clones, so if it helps I use four pumps of a sprayer (4ml) with fresh tap water + IBA in each of my 6cm (2¼ inch) pots.

The only additives I use are rooting powder and Bcuzz root stimulator which I believe contains IBA (Indolebutyric Acid).

My clones normally callus in three days, and start to show roots between five to seven days, I leave them in the propagator for two weeks as I don’t have anywhere else to put them.
 
kinddiesel

kinddiesel

Well-Known Member
hydro, works faster, and much better for very large stems, I used a lot of different ways, now im glued to hydro,
 
Milovan

Milovan

Well-Known Member
I just grab a fairly large tray depending on how many cuttings I want to clone and then throw perlite in it. I put a small tray with water and an airstone in it and I place the
smaller tray into the
larger tray and put any plastic dome (cake,pastries, donuts etc.. I want above the tray to make the humidity.
I make sure some air gets in at all times and I spray the inside of the dome only a few times a day, I use a daylight CFL above
a heating pad on low below the tray and I get 100% success rate always. All clones take no longer then 10 days to root for me, even revegging clones take no more
then 10 days.

I just throw whatever together to make clones and it always works. Too easy.
 
M

MISSPHOEBE

Well-Known Member
DemonTrich said:
what happened?
Click to expand...
Yo Demon! I smegged it up! The first clone (was too small I think) I left too wet! an it went mushy!

the second clone (was also too small I think) I left too dry! an it went all crispy!

LOL

Oooopz

I'll gettit thou... I will ... I will ...
 
M

MISSPHOEBE

Well-Known Member
Baxters said:
I use 6cm (2¼ inch) pots with seed/cutting compost and keep them in a temperature regulated propagator, I keep the vents open slightly and a pen wedges between the lid and the base.

If they start to wilt I close the vents for a few hours until they recover; doing this keeps air circulating and helps to stop damping off (the slushy stems)
After three days I remove the dome and see if they wilt, if they do I then re-cover them and try again the next day; I believe this forces them to transpire which in turn forces them to root sooner.

Also the heated propagator is controlled by a central heating thermostat to keep an absolute stable temperature night and day; I found that adding the thermostat increased my success rate from about 80% to 100% and I believe it’s because the heated propagator prevented the nighttime temperatures from going too low and allow damping off to occur.

The propagator without the thermostat was too warm 90°F and actually made matters worse, so I decided to make it controllable and have it set to 80°F.

Another thing to remember with clones is the state of the donor; Nitrogen inhibits root development so don’t take clones after you just fed your plants, also take cutting from fresh flexible non woody parts which are high in sugars, and the longer the clone the better.
I believe auxins produced in the tip inhibit root growth and the further away from the tip your cut is, the lower the concentration of the root inhibiting auxins are.

I go by the rule of thumb cuts must be at least 100mm in length and 5mm in thickness.

I also believe most people probably over water their clones, so if it helps I use four pumps of a sprayer (4ml) with fresh tap water + IBA in each of my 6cm (2¼ inch) pots.

The only additives I use are rooting powder and Bcuzz root stimulator which I believe contains IBA (Indolebutyric Acid).

My clones normally callus in three days, and start to show roots between five to seven days, I leave them in the propagator for two weeks as I don’t have anywhere else to put them.
Click to expand...
- I have now taken " Larger clones (as mine were rather tiny lol )
- I was told to keep all vents closed ....... is that bad?

Thanxxxxxxxxxxxxx Baxters!
 
M

MISSPHOEBE

Well-Known Member
Milovan said:
I just grab a fairly large tray depending on how many cuttings I want to clone and then throw perlite in it. I put a small tray with water and an airstone in it and I place the
smaller tray into the
larger tray and put any plastic dome (cake,pastries, donuts etc.. I want above the tray to make the humidity.
I make sure some air gets in at all times and I spray the inside of the dome only a few times a day, I use a daylight CFL above
a heating pad on low below the tray and I get 100% success rate always. All clones take no longer then 10 days to root for me, even revegging clones take no more
then 10 days.

I just throw whatever together to make clones and it always works. Too easy.
Click to expand...
I envyyyyyyyyyyyyyy U Milovan!

lol
 
M

MISSPHOEBE

Well-Known Member
.... oh and just so y'all'know...

I am on Side of Mountain... with no electric ... (yep I got candles!)

so I cannot turn on my " heated pads " or my lovely " cfls " or switch temps up .... or .... down ....

- I am back to Basics! Cave Girl Style!

LOL

xmissx
 
B

Baxters

Well-Known Member
MISSPHOEBE said:
- I have now taken " Larger clones (as mine were rather tiny lol )
- I was told to keep all vents closed ....... is that bad?

Thanxxxxxxxxxxxxx Baxters!
Click to expand...
It’s not really bad as such, but if your clones don’t wilt with the vents open then you should try to keep them open, the sooner the plant starts to transpire then the sooner it will try to take up water and the sooner you get roots.

Do bear in mind that condensation on the dome although is a good indicator of high humidity, can also trigger molds so try to keep it to a minimum, if you have to keep it fully shut up with no vents, then take the cover off at least once a day and allow the condensation on the cover to evaporate before recovering.

From my experience I find that as soon as you have a callus, then the plant is ready to root and there is enough surface area on the callus to maintain water requirements, another thing to note with rooting powders is that the hormones make the callus but the powder can actually block development of actual roots, so sometimes I wash of the powder with a pump sprayer if I can see powder still imbedded in the callus.

Once you get a feel for it, you will end up with your own way of doing it, and you might want to write your own check list.
I hope this helps, but I bet now you have taken bigger cuts, you will have a better success rate.
 
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