Problems diagnosing leaf symptoms in PC Grow

Bernie420 said:
Like I said the new growth looks great pik the two leaves off and move on. Learn but only do small changes to what your doing.

If it aint broke dont fix it
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I just took the 2 leaves off, I dont know why but I feel so bad about it, hope she recovers. I will give update every few days
 
bastardbastard said:
the EC is 306 μS/cm, PH is 7.7, water should be hard which is indicated by the ph


@icetech could it be that the symptoms are the same if the water is too hard rather then being to soft? Because we have quite hard water and I'm so afraid to add Cal/mag. How much should I add it to a 2,4l reservouir in this condition ? On the bottle it says that I should add from 0.1 to 1ml per L

Should I cut down the first two leaves which are quite brown? I dont wanna stun the growth


Thanks for the help
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Add half of what the cal says to add.. see if the plants react.. those things are cal deficient though.. i am about 100% sure. btw.. 306EC? that doesn't make sense.. unless i use a different scale.. i run 1.7-1.8 EC.. are you sure you don't mean 306ppm? 306 is a bit high for tap.. BUT that doesnt' mean it has enough cal in it.. it could be any dissolved solids..

P.S. the leaves that are discolored will not fix themselves.. start adding some cal/mag and watch the new growth to see how it looks.. so give it a few days.
 
bastardbastard said:
Many suggest switching to distilled and adding Cal/mag, what do you think? Would mixing tap with distilled water help?
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I think your all getting confused with the EC, your reading you gave is the equivalent of 0.3 EC or 150 ppm on the 500 scale which is fine, I use tap which is 0.4 EC and dont have issues, I find I dont need any calmag for the first 4 or 5 weeks and then I can feed at 1/2 strength till the end.

Those first set of 3 finger leaves often go a bit funky and as said above the new growth looks good, just dont feed to heavy in DWC and make sure your PH is in check and your roots are healthy and you should be good!
 
MrGreenFingers99 said:
I think your all getting confused with the EC, your reading you gave is the equivalent of 0.3 EC or 150 ppm on the 500 scale which is fine, I use tap which is 0.4 EC and dont have issues, I find I dont need any calmag for the first 4 or 5 weeks and then I can feed at 1/2 strength till the end.

Those first set of 3 finger leaves often go a bit funky and as said above the new growth looks good, just dont feed to heavy in DWC and make sure your PH is in check and your roots are healthy and you should be good!
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I would still go 1/2str cal/mag the new growth looks decent but it's uniform in color on the leaves.. they look mag/cal def, but that's just my opinion :) 1/2 str cal/mag won't hurt them so better than not trying.
 
bastardbastard said:
I just took the 2 leaves off, I dont know why but I feel so bad about it, hope she recovers. I will give update every few days
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See problem solved no leaves no problem.

You need to know that when you have issues the best thing to do is to raise the light and slow the grow and let it recover by leaving it alone when / after you correct what is wrong and give it time to do its thing. Nothing happens over night except you could kill it over night. It takes time and it is slow.

In hydro water temp ph ppms and a proper balanced nutrient is what you need to keep an eye on. In dwc youll have an air stone and that stuff but what ever, I dont do that I do ebb and flow. Point being if you have that and the environment and a pest control control plan youll be successful at growing weed. and a good light at the right height. etc etc ...You just need to know what all those number are at different stages of growth.

easy peasy
 
icetech said:
I would still go 1/2str cal/mag the new growth looks decent but it's uniform in color on the leaves.. they look mag/cal def, but that's just my opinion :) 1/2 str cal/mag won't hurt them so better than not trying.
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1/2 strength shouldn't hurt but if you give to much you can end up locking out other nutes, also I personally dont see any cal mag issues, certainly not Cal as it's an immobile nutrient so will show on the new growth straight away.
 
icetech said:
Add half of what the cal says to add.. see if the plants react.. those things are cal deficient though.. i am about 100% sure. btw.. 306EC? that doesn't make sense.. unless i use a different scale.. i run 1.7-1.8 EC.. are you sure you don't mean 306ppm? 306 is a bit high for tap.. BUT that doesnt' mean it has enough cal in it.. it could be any dissolved solids..

P.S. the leaves that are discolored will not fix themselves.. start adding some cal/mag and watch the new growth to see how it looks.. so give it a few days.
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I'm not very familiar with these measurements, they are European so they probably differ from US measurements. I tried using converter but I rather posted the original EU measurements because I got confused with values when converting and it seemed I could cause more problems then anything else if I gave missleading info
 
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Bernie420 said:
See problem solved no leaves no problem.

You need to know that when you have issues the best thing to do is to raise the light and slow the grow and let it recover by leaving it alone when / after you correct what is wrong and give it time to do its thing. Nothing happens over night except you could kill it over night. It takes time and it is slow.

In hydro water temp ph ppms and a proper balanced nutrient is what you need to keep an eye on. In dwc youll have an air stone and that stuff but what ever, I dont do that I do ebb and flow. Point being if you have that and the environment and a pest control control plan youll be successful at growing weed. and a good light at the right height. etc etc ...You just need to know what all those number are at different stages of growth.

easy peasy
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I just ordered digital tester for ec/ppm so I can have more accurate readings of the water that I'm using. I check ph daily, water temps are quite low. I also removed any other heat sources from the box that would cause the water temp to go up. I must say besides those leaves, roots seem to be doing very very well, no discoloration or anything and they grow very quick by the day looking real happy. I also clean the reservoir with every water change thoroughly. I will post a picture of the roots when I do the next ph messurment in the morning.
 
bastardbastard said:
I just ordered digital tester for ec/ppm so I can have more accurate readings of the water that I'm using. I check ph daily, water temps are quite low. I also removed any other heat sources from the box that would cause the water temp to go up. I must say besides those leaves, roots seem to be doing very very well, no discoloration or anything and they grow very quick by the day looking real happy. I also clean the reservoir with every water change thoroughly. I will post a picture of the roots when I do the next ph messurment in the morning.
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ok

I dont know what you use to check ph but if its a meter of some sort get the drops to have on hand as they are accurate and when you have a wicked ph swing of some sort if you use a meter of some sort check with the drops first before you go adding ph up or down when it is actually your meter that is out of whack.

Cleaning the rez every time isnt necessary, but you do whatever you want. Heck I didnt even clean a single thing between my sets last time. Im getting lazy about it. I cleaned my glass in my hoods though, thats imporatant.
 
Bernie420 said:
ok

I dont know what you use to check ph but if its a meter of some sort get the drops to have on hand as they are accurate and when you have a wicked ph swing of some sort if you use a meter of some sort check with the drops first before you go adding ph up or down when it is actually your meter that is out of whack.

Cleaning the rez every time isnt necessary, but you do whatever you want. Heck I didnt even clean a single thing between my sets last time. Im getting lazy about it. I cleaned my glass in my hoods though, thats imporatant.
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Currently I have the ph drops tester from GHE and also use their ph down. It came free along with the nutrients. The digitalph meter will come with the ec/ppm meter in a kit that I ordered today.
Bernie420 said:
View attachment 4573492
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If I use online converter I get
306 microsiemens/centimeter (μS/cm, uS/cm) = 0.306 millisiemens/centimeter (mS/cm ). By the chart I should have only 50ppm ?
 
bastardbastard said:
Currently I have the ph drops tester from GHE and also use their ph down. It came free along with the nutrients. The digitalph meter will come with the ec/ppm meter in a kit that I ordered today.


If I use online converter I get
306 microsiemens/centimeter (μS/cm, uS/cm) = 0.306 millisiemens/centimeter (μS/cm, mS/cm ). By the chart I should have only 50ppm ?
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No 150 ppm if using 500 scale as chart above
 
bastardbastard said:
I've read that in veg state plant needs around 300ppm and even more as it flowers, but on some other sites I read that 150ppm is considered hard water and anything above is very hard water. So what does this indicate? Do I need "very hard" water?
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These are just a guide and also your not even in veg yet, your still in seedling stage IMO until you get to 4 or 5 nodes, seedlings dont need alot, I would aim for 300 overall so 150 ppm of feed on top of your water.

It is not desirable to have hard water no but mine is 0.4/200 ppm and I dont have issues but you do want to leave it out for 24 hours to let the chlorine gas off or you can do what I do and use a pinch of Ascorbic acid (pure vitamin c) which cleans water of chlorine and Chlorimines in about 20 mins.

You would need to look at your water report to see what it contains but I've never bothered.
 
MrGreenFingers99 said:
These are just a guide and also your not even in veg yet, your still in seedling stage IMO until you get to 4 or 5 nodes, seedlings dont need alot, I would aim for 300 overall so 150 ppm of feed on top of your water.

It is not desirable to have hard water no but mine is 0.4/200 ppm and I dont have issues but you do want to leave it out for 24 hours to let the chlorine gas off or you can do what I do and use a pinch of Ascorbic acid (pure vitamin c) which cleans water of chlorine and Chlorimines in about 20 mins.

You would need to look at your water report to see what it contains but I've never bothered.
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In the water analysis it says that I have 0.15 mg/L Chlorine and 37 mg/L of Chloride
 
bastardbastard said:
I've read that in veg state plant needs around 300ppm and even more as it flowers, but on some other sites I read that 150ppm is considered hard water and anything above is very hard water. So what does this indicate? Do I need "very hard" water?
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I consider hard water to be well water
tap water is city water
soft water is water that is run through a water softener DONT USE THIS
r/o water is water from an r/o system
distilled water is distilled water
and the water that is in your rez is nuted water and you used tap or well or r/o to get it

Thats just me though.... others will say tap and well is hard which it is...its just how I do it.

So how I think your thinking is no you dont want hard water but if you used r/o and a starting point of 10 ppms and added nutes to it and got nuted water and that read 300 ppms that would be a good place to be at with that size plant. if ite healthy which your looks to be. If its unheallthy then a lower ppm would help till the plant recovers then you can bump up the ppms.
 
bastardbastard said:
In the water analysis it says that I have 0.15 mg/L Chlorine and 37 mg/L of Chloride
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Sorry bro cant help you out with ratios, maybe try google to see if it's high or not, as I say I dont tend to need any calmag for first 4 or 5 weeks then half strength from there but some strains may require more or less
 
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