Ppm runoff lower than feed, ph high, flush?

spokehead88

Active Member
So i feed my clones week 1 on veg, ppm was at 392 phed at around 6
I checked runoff, and ppm was 170 and ph was like 6.5-7
So if my ppm are lower than its going in i assumed there hungry, with the ph runoff being higher, os this an idication of nut lockout??

Should one, flush with low nutes say 150-200 ppm, with just base nute-cal mag?
Untill i get that ph desired
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
So i feed my clones week 1 on veg, ppm was at 392 phed at around 6
I checked runoff, and ppm was 170 and ph was like 6.5-7
So if my ppm are lower than its going in i assumed there hungry, with the ph runoff being higher, os this an idication of nut lockout??

Should one, flush with low nutes say 150-200 ppm, with just base nute-cal mag?
Untill i get that ph desired

It usually means they are hungry. The ppm goes down as they eat and the ph rises as they eat.

In soil it can mean salt buildup but we need some pics of the plant to really even guess.
 

spokehead88

Active Member
I checked phagain, it was around 6.0-6.6 so im hopping thats relativley safe,
I saw some more mite eggs this morning
My dumbass got anxious, and sprayed this mixture foliar and i think there fried, i ph ro water to 6
Added .5 tbls diamactus earth too 2 cups water
.25 ml avid too 2 cups water [ i diddent mix the full 2 cups of avid/water solution with the diamactus water, just about 10-15 ml of avid/water dilution into the DE water.
And abt 9 ml of 70% isp alcohol to the mix of de/avid/water, i should of looked up if i can even mix them like that...

1st image was of today in the am before i fuked them up.


2nd n 3rd r now ):
I hopw they look beter in a couple days
 

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MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
DE is not effective when wet or against mites so much.

You have no choice but to wait and watch now. You are doing too much.

You didn't mention mites in your op. Have to kill them and all of their eggs before anything else.

I have no experience with avid. And alcohol can be used but to wipe off mites and eggs with.

Maybe some more help will chime in.

I would read about mites and cannabis and plan your next move.
 

spokehead88

Active Member
DE is not effective when wet or against mites so much.

You have no choice but to wait and watch now. You are doing too much.

You didn't mention mites in your op. Have to kill them and all of their eggs before anything else.

I have no experience with avid. And alcohol can be used but to wipe off mites and eggs with.

Maybe some more help will chime in.

I would read about mites and cannabis and plan your next move.
Yeah i deff wont ever mix up my own cocauctions again,
I read de as a foliar is ok..

Diatomaceous Earth Pesticide Spray
One method of application for Cannabis plants is to create a spray from four tablespoons of food-grade DE per gallon of water. Be careful to measure the diatomaceous earth with a small scoop or spoon in order to reduce airborne dust particles. Shake the mixture to combine, don your spraying mask and mist the plants with a thin, evenly-distributed layer on both the top and undersides of leaves – aim for wet, but not dripping, foliage. This method is only suitable for plants in the vegetative to pre-flower stages, as those in the flowering phase will absorb the spray and it could potentially be consumed when the plant is smoked. Once the spray dries, the diatomite activates and becomes effective.
Source-https://www.softsecrets.com/us/news/national/diatomaceous-earth-kill-bugs-in-your-cannabis-garden-without-using-pesticides/

If use de again ill just dust mmj plant, i hate how messsy de gets, so ill just use, azamax,avid,go gnats.

Im not foliaring for next 4-5 days, or feeding for at least 2 to let coco dry up a bit, ill post a pic by sunday in hopes its not fucked!


I did spray with plain ro water ph at around 6 thin morning, in hopes to rid leaves of the dilution i sprayed laxt night.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Did you buffer your coco with calmag before you started using it?
If not, what you are looking at is calcium and magnesium binding with the coco and pushing K and Na off into the water.
 

spokehead88

Active Member
Did you buffer your coco with calmag before you started using it?
If not, what you are looking at is calcium and magnesium binding with the coco and pushing K and Na off into the water.

Looking back at the op,
I for got to mention, they are at week one since transplant and i have just started to feed them higher ppms 392 as stated, i was ffeeding around 200-250 ppm for first week of trasnplant.

Buffer?
You mean charge? Or perhaps the terms are simillar
Yes, i did this
How i rinsed my coir 5kg gh
1. Soaked coir with boiling water for 3 hrs in bucket
2. Rinse in hot tap untill clear
3.rinse with ro ph to 5.8 10 gal of ro per pillow case
4. [Then ran at 4.5-4.7 ph] with 1ml cocoa, 1ml coco b, .5ml of cal mag, .25 ml rapid start,runoff was at 6.0


Would one have to worry abt this if there is a cal mag defficancy?
Seems one could confuse nute lockout with cal mag diffenceys?
 

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
Are you still using the fox farm trio as nutrients? I think you would do better with the General Hydroponics trio as was suggested in the other thread.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Calmag buffering is done with 20g of CM per 20 liters of buffering solution.
You should not see too much effect from the start, but it becomes a problem later on as the Mg and Ca binds to the coir instead of being available to the plants, and the toxic levels of K and Na being released from the coir into the water is now available to the plant, but harmful.

Mg deficiency will show up as pale spots on the leafy bits between the veins on the leaves combined with purple blotchy spots as it gets worse.

Ca will show as tiny brown rusty looking spots.
 
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