Powering on 10 x 250w at once from one socket.

CobKits

Well-Known Member
george id do 8 breakers at 1000W each on individual staggered timers, hopefully your panels have that many slots. they make the half-sized double breakers that take up two slots but then have 120V on leg A+240V from legA to B, and then 120V on legB.

that at least provides you accessory 120V breakers for pumps/fans/veg lights. etc without takin up additional slots so if your panel has 16 slots you can pull off 8 full 240V circuits+16 120V circuits
 

George2324

Well-Known Member
I have 6 free slots on my sub panel unfortunately so I'd have to do 2000w each I think...

Only thing is though this sub panel is still linked directly to one single breaker. Wouldn't that single breaker all the current will be running through trip with multiple drivers turning on at same time?

Edit you think I should still stagger didn't notice that.

What would be the benefit of using seperate breakers for each 1000w if I still have to stager?
 
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Joe34

Active Member
Just wondering guys.

Buying 20 timers and setting each one to start 30 seconds from its previous should work right?

No need for advanced electrics?
 

goofy81

Well-Known Member
I think people here are reading too much into things.
I run 6 x HLG 240s on a 10a plug (although Australia has pretty good standards). All turn on at the same time with no problem.

Before LEDS I was using 6800watts of hps etc (~28a) on a 32a breaker and all on at the same time. Was fine. (6mmm cable).

However, if you don't know what you're doing then I suggest you get someone who does.
 

Joe34

Active Member
@goofy81 I got the exact vibe.

Thanks for speaking the truth mate. your real answer is more credible than majority of the theoretical bs posted...
 

fjbudboy

Well-Known Member
Sure, it won't be a problem most times, but if the sin waves happen to line up on their peaks for that millisecond you might trip the breaker. It's not an always thing, and heck it might never even happen, but blatantly disregarding the spec sheet is not how I do things.
 

Joe34

Active Member
@fjbudboy I hear what your saying, however take the spec wattage - states 239W, but its general consensus here that most(if not everybody) gets around 250W out of the driver.
 

fjbudboy

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I'm probably wrong again but to get 239 watts of usable power at 96% efficiency takes about 250 watts....which is all on the spec sheet.
 

Joe34

Active Member
@fjbudboy I received 3 pms, + goofy, + 1 other saying they are switching on more than 5 Drivers at once.
Also have heard many many times the spec sheet is generous.

Because of that, Il go by the actual useage results.

Il be sure to post my results when I get them
 

fjbudboy

Well-Known Member
Like I said before, you will probably be fine as it is a chance occurence of sine waves lining up just right. It's even less of an issue in our use because it only turns on once a day, I mean if its a 1/1000(random number) chance it's an average of 3 years of before it will happen once, if ever. I am probably over cautious too as I don't use timers to turn anything on of meaningful wattage (use of contactors instead), despite of other's actual usage results.
 

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
The reason is literally posted and highlighted in red a few posts up. Inrush current. When you turn on a power supply it pulls much higher current at start up than it does once it has reached its constant load. Pretty standard stuff to be honest.
I think that the only proof that some will accept is actual experience-let him wire it up and then wonder why the breaker keeps popping......
 

Joe34

Active Member
I think that the only proof that some will accept is actual experience-let him wire it up and then wonder why the breaker keeps popping......
And if it doesnt you can eat your words.

Likewise il do the same if it does.
 

goofy81

Well-Known Member
The breaker is there to protect your cabling, not your appliances. So what's the worst that can happen, your breaker trips. You address it properly.

I'm actually more concerned about what's after the breaker. I'm using Japanese timers, 10 x 20a contactors made in Germany, switches rated for higher than I need and overload protection.

Been using 6-8 kw for a decade, and when I first started I used a licensed electrician(who did tell me to turn second half of ballasts on after a few seconds "if " the breaker tripped).
So far there has never been any issues.

I personally wouldn't use 10 x 250 for one Aussie socket.

EDIT : please don't take my words for advice, it's just experience and I do not recommend playing with high voltage unless you are a licensed electrician.
 
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goofy81

Well-Known Member
Oh by the way, make sure all connections are secure and have good contact.
I knew someone whose plug went all black over a few months because they were slack at screwing the cable into place properly. You got 10a hanging on half the strands your supposed to is going to heat that area up.
 
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