Please help

Beachwalker said:
I learn to grow before the internet from a couple of books written by Cervantes, I'd be curious to see where he said that? Regardless, NO!

1) Add nutes

2) Adjust pH

3) Feed plants
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I have that book on Kindle and searching it does not show that. Actually what he probably conflated was Jorge's saying to pH water you use to top up an already mixed reservoir. In the book Jorge goes on and on about the importance of checking your reservoirs pH.
 
curious2garden said:
I have that book on Kindle and searching it does not show that. Actually what he probably conflated was Jorge's saying to pH water you use to top up an already mixed reservoir. In the book Jorge goes on and on about the importance of checking your reservoirs pH.
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Yes I would not expect him to say that, I assumed op misread something, but I felt the need to point it out because I see people doing just that more often than I would have thought..!
 
xtsho said:
You're using way more stuff than you need to. I see more problems with grows from people using the expensive fancy lines of nutrients and additives than people using just the basics. Don't wast your money on AN nutes. Get some MaxiBloom MaxiGrow or something similar and call it a day. Those expensive additives apparently aren't doing you any good.
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You literally could not be more right buddy. Lots of people getting taken advantage of, I myself was too at one point til I realized it's as simple as A n B and fuck C lol.
 
bfatal said:
You literally could not be more right buddy. Lots of people getting taken advantage of, I myself was too at one point til I realized it's as simple as A n B and fuck C lol.
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Next grow if I use maxigrow and bloom,cannazym and a drop a gal of super thrive would i need anything else to get high quality results? I feel like I have been raped by AN in a Wayne their lables/information makes AN sound like they should be a staple product for everybody's grow..needless to say I just want to thank the community here for not acting childish and talking down to someone new at this like I see in other forums. I really appreciate everybody's feedback. I'll take a quick pic of the text when I get a chance about PH
 
In the end, all plants need the same basic elements to thrive..it's not rocket science! Company's will put bells and whistles around their products and make unproven claims, but in the end, plants have grown for eons on our planet...AN or whatever other 'fancy' company, didn't suddenly re-invent the wheel with their 'new and improved' nutes! Magnesium sulfate, or potassium nitrate, or calcium carbonate, is the same, no matter who is bottling it...just like in math 1+1=2, no matter who is teaching the subject ;)
Even feeding organically..it makes absolutely no difference to the plant whether it gets an organic compound or synthetic (chemical). The plant responds the same way. The only reason organic is desired is for own peace of mind, and yes, plants grow better, for the simple reason that in organics..once set, needs little input from the grower other than watering..which helps alot as most people who grow don't understand the 'science' behind how plants feed and how elements interact with each other at the root level...so by going organic..they eliminate the grower mistakes, and thus the plant thrives.
 
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Drgreebthumb628 said:
Next grow if I use maxigrow and bloom,cannazym and a drop a gal of super thrive would i need anything else to get high quality results? I feel like I have been raped by AN in a Wayne their lables/information makes AN sound like they should be a staple product for everybody's grow..needless to say I just want to thank the community here for not acting childish and talking down to someone new at this like I see in other forums. I really appreciate everybody's feedback. I'll take a quick pic of the text when I get a chance about PH
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Yeah man 100% you will, I would throw in a bit of calmag as well. The scale I use is basically add 1/5th of calmag to total PPM solution the rest is A & B that's pretty much it, so I usually add anywhere from 50-150ppm + tap PPM (check your Tap PPM base to start try not to go above 250 base including the Tap PPM, so if your tap is 160PPM only increase it to about 2-250ish total with calmag) then bring it up to where You need with the Grow and Bloom and other supplements etc. But just keep it simple it works! Work your way up nice and slow on PPM and your plant will love it. Also don't forget to condition your water if it's tap, you can use a salt/freshwater conditioner from your pet store to remove all chlorine/chloramine/heavy metals basically instantly from your water with a few drops.

Cheers
 
Drgreebthumb628 said:
Out of products I have now what should I use? I did spend a fuckload on nutes hoping for the best dankness... btw ppm for bloom which is doing better is in the 800s up to 1k. The veg ppm is 500 to 700 depending if i add cal mag after the claw is when I backed up on nutes and kept it at 300ppm and started to have the problems with neon green, is it still nitrogen toxicity? What do I need to do?. My water ppm from well is 80 ppm. The ph is usually around 6.3-6.5. But when I used the ph down to bring it to 5.5 after adding the nutes it caused the ph to swing to 7 the next day. I stopped using ph down as it seemed to cause the ph to swing high and had the ph fluctuations streas signs. Since not using the ph down it is more stable not exceeding 6.5. Please give me any advice as all I want is a successful grow. Lowest temp with lights off is now 66-67 much better... Buying my medical is to expensive for me and MM has been a godsend for my conditions I just do not want to fail again
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Have you checked the ppm of your runoff?
 
curious2garden said:
I have that book on Kindle and searching it does not show that. Actually what he probably conflated was Jorge's saying to pH water you use to top up an already mixed reservoir. In the book Jorge goes on and on about the importance of checking your reservoirs pH.
Click to expand...
Page 299 under hydro gardening in the ph section of Jorge cervantes grow bible states at the last sentence right before ec,tds,ds,cd,ppm and ec meters heading and I quote "stabilize the ph of the water before adding fertilizern make a correction if readings vary plus minus one half point. Didnt post a picture I dont want any headache for copyright infringement
 
Drgreebthumb628 said:
Page 299 under hydro gardening in the ph section of Jorge cervantes grow bible states at the last sentence right before ec,tds,ds,cd,ppm and ec meters heading and I quote "stabilize the ph of the water before adding fertilizern make a correction if readings vary plus minus one half point. Didnt post a picture I dont want any headache for copyright infringement
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"Follow the directions on the container, and remember to mix adjusters into the reservoir slowly and completely. Fertilizers are normally acidic and lower the pH of the nutrient solution. But nutrient solution is still taken in by plants, and water transpires and evaporates into the air, which causes the pH to climb. Stabilize the pH of the water before adding fertilizer. Make a correction if readings vary ± one-half point."

Cervantes, Jorge (2011-04-13). Marijuana Horticulture: The Indoor/Outdoor Medical Grower's Bible (p. 310). Van Patten Publishing. Kindle Edition.

Thanks, you still have to measure and correct once mixed.
 
Old Thcool said:
Not sure where this info is coming from? PH is potential of hydrogen, you will typically lower ph by adding nutrients to water. It doesn’t hurt to check your Ph before you add nutrients but you should definitely check after adding. You will want to correct Ph at this stage. How can you possibly correct for ph before you add nutrients? Some people know generally how much correction they will need and add it prior to the nutrients but ultimately it will need correcting anyway so....?
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Am getting it from decades of experience, years of advice and many many reads, like Jorge Cervantes......

9B5CB28C-5A77-4199-943F-2FDD940FE271.jpeg
 
And Cervantes isn’t the only, the old guy at the hydro store from 2 decades ago showed me... have done it that way ever since....
 
I don’t come with a guidebook, but, I do respond to people who feel the need to insult rather than answer legitimate questions about their own ideas that they are seeking advice on, who then do not like the answers or questions, and feels the need to constantly move the goal posts to fit their insanity.

I ain’t a chump, and I don’t take kindly to rudeness, that’s your problem not mine, Beachwalker.
 
Umm, if you mix the same nutes all the time, you already know how much PH down you need so there is no harm in doing it first. When you are trying new nutes you may have to PH after mixing them. Then you may or may not get some cloudy precipitation as the PH up/down reacts to your nutes. That's not cool. I think most nutes are designed to work with water with a fairly neutral PH. If you take your high PH tap water and lower the PH a little before mixing, you should be in the ball park after mixing the nutes.
 
Galwaith said:
And Cervantes isn’t the only, the old guy at the hydro store from 2 decades ago showed me... have done it that way ever since....
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Galwaith said:
I don’t come with a guidebook, but, I do respond to people who feel the need to insult rather than answer legitimate questions about their own ideas that they are seeking advice on, who then do not like the answers or questions, and feels the need to constantly move the goal posts to fit their insanity.

I ain’t a chump, and I don’t take kindly to rudeness, that’s your problem not mine, Beachwalker.
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Dude you're the one after being a member for one day was calling people fucking this and fucking that! So in addition to being a clueless grower you're also apparently a hypocrite?

Here are your words:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/can-someone-tell-what-this-is.982353/page-2#post-14670187

And as Bernie already said in an earlier Post in this same thread you're banned for a year from giving information so I'm not the only one who's noticed that you don't know what you're talkin about..

Bernie420 said:
Galwaith said:
Yes, PH the water first, the nutes won't effect it enough to make a difference. It's also kind of why you lower the PH so much, so that it over-rides the nutes.

Generally you don't want to adjust PH AFTER you add you nutes, I forget the reason why exactly but I think it has to do with nutrient lock out. I just never have done it so I don't know.

The way I have my stuff set up, it's all just automatic, I don't even worry about the PH, like I said I test once a year and it's always been the same since I moved here 5 years ago.
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We talked about it and you have been banned for one year from posting advice on the internet.

BANNED ONE YEAR!!!!!!!
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What have you got like two grows under your belt, maybe four? You should really stop talking for a moment and start reading cuz your information could really confuse folks who are trying to save their plants

I don't necessarily mean this in a bad way, people can read what you've said and draw their own conclusion about your advice, you've been here not even a week and you've really shown that you don't know much, and you don't seem to play well with others either Jimmy, maybe you should just calm down a bit?
 
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70's natureboy said:
Umm, if you mix the same nutes all the time, you already know how much PH down you need so there is no harm in doing it first. When you are trying new nutes you may have to PH after mixing them. Then you may or may not get some cloudy precipitation as the PH up/down reacts to your nutes. That's not cool. I think most nutes are designed to work with water with a fairly neutral PH. If you take your high PH tap water and lower the PH a little before mixing, you should be in the ball park after mixing the nutes.
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Thats pretty much the way the old guy from the hydro store explained it to me a long time ago. The nutes will drive it down, but, not normally lower than the 5.5 recommended by most folks. When I go to add Ferts, it's at 6. The air stone alone will drive up the ph. Back up a 1/2 point. depending on the size of the air stone. I found larger ones will make it go up a little more.

You don't want your PH to be perfect at 7.

I used to have a chart that showed where all the available nutes were at for certain PH levels...... You want your plant to range in between so that it gets the most out of the nutes you provide, instead of just one optimum range which WILL lock out some micros and others more than others.
 
70's natureboy said:
Umm, if you mix the same nutes all the time, you already know how much PH down you need so there is no harm in doing it first. When you are trying new nutes you may have to PH after mixing them. Then you may or may not get some cloudy precipitation as the PH up/down reacts to your nutes. That's not cool. I think most nutes are designed to work with water with a fairly neutral PH. If you take your high PH tap water and lower the PH a little before mixing, you should be in the ball park after mixing the nutes.
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Agree, certainly this is true but op is a new grower with so I answered as fundamentally as possible, also when I've done it this way my city likes to switch up the pH every now and then (seems seasonal?) and they've caught me doing this a few times, so I've stopped, but if my water was always the same certainly no problem

But to pH to 6.5 and then add the newts is going to drop it in the four's or maybe even lower, and will require a very large amount of pH up, not the best way to do it in my opinion
 
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