Please help!! problems in CoCo !

Hazed137

Member
Sorry urban idk if I'm not reading correctly or what but what does any of that info have to do with my problem/question? I don't use that nute line and it actually told me not to PH RO water? Lol
If anyone else can please chime in with some help it would be much appreciated.
 

Hazed137

Member
Anyone else have any thoughts? I flushed and it almost seems worse it looks just like a mg def but I use 5ml calmag plus per gallon but the new calmag I bought has a bit lower percentages of mg it has 1.2% when my previous one had 1.6% I believe? So in multiple gallons it adds up, I can't figure out what to do I've done the same regime for 9 years and never had this happen, I'm thinking I should add Epsom salt but idk how never have.
 

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
Hazed,
The first thing a grower should do is to assess the water situation. I don't know why you switched to RO, but by doing that, you then have to replace the nutrients that would be added via tap water. That being primarily Ca and Mg...hence the existence of Calmag.

How bad is your tapwater? Could you use it 50/50 with RO? If your tap is around 200ppm, then it should be fine to skip Calmag and Epsom salts. Much depends on your nutrients. And I'm a minimalist regarding nutrients so I can't help you there.

Ok, some nutrients are mobile and some aren't. Your deficiencies were based on a lockout and happened very rapidly so only showed up on new growth. That's not totally true because some older leaves exhibit Mg deficiency.

The stuff Urban posted is useful far as general coco knowledge is concerned.
JD
 

Hazed137

Member
I never tried my tap water I just always had ro water from my saltwater tanks th. I felt it best to cut out all the fluoride n BS that's in city water I treat my babies as if they were my flesh n blood babies lol my nutrients are house and garden cocos A n B and their line of roots excelerator, Multi Zen and Amino treatment as well as Drip Clean which I thought was suppose to stop salts from building up, cuz like I said before I've used this same exact method for multiple years and never had any major or minor issues for that matter.

I flushed and the ppm was 1400 but there quite big plants idk if that matters?(vegged for 7 weeks)
Im going to try another semi flush with 1/4 strngth base nutes A n B no addatives not even cal mag, Ive been reading that coco builds up CA quite well which can lock out other notes especially during flower I've been reading that during flower you actually shouldn't even need it or at 1/4 strength at most. Does this seem like a good idea or what do you reccomend?
 

Silky Shagsalot

Well-Known Member
you need to get 10-15% run-off with "every," feed!!! ditch the cal-mag altogether. you're using coco specific nutes, don't need it. i use h&g, and some of their supps. i never get much higher than 800 ppm. you're overdoing the feed and not allowing for run-off/or enough r/o. start feeding at a way reduced ppm, (700 to start) and get a butt load of run-off, don't use plain water.
 

Rusty Shakelford

Well-Known Member
Yea, keep the RO water,, get yourself some CNS17 for Coco and you wont need anything else. Since its a COCO blend, the CalMag is in abundance and I have not had to even open the CalMag Bottle since switching to CNS17 for Coco. What's also great is that its a ONE PART. I use Botanicare Coco which does not need to be rinsed and feed with CNS17 every day,, I get Big, Healthy, Happy Plants with as little work as possible. If I want, I can flush them once a month or so with just a light feed of CNS17 and call it good. My plants topped out at 1050ppm (.5 factor) in flower.
 

Hazed137

Member
Yea I did a 0 ppm flush the other day and followed it up the next day with a half strength 600ppm feed and watered till 20% runoff at least and everything seems to steadily be getting worse I don't get it I'm almost starting to think I'm not feeding them enough? Even at half strength what the nutrient calculator says to use my ppm is 600ppm!? Like I said before for years I've just follow hngs websites nute calculator and I've never once had this problem so why now would it be over feeding when I've always done this and gotten perfect results I can't even remember the last time I've had a problem in years, I'm starting to think that it may have been a def cuz I just realized that I have been feeding them the week 2 nute amount when I've been on week 3 for 4 days before the problem happened, so maybe this is why? Idk I'm just trying to explore all options cuz it seems to just be getting a lot worse. Again they were vegged for 7 weeks and are huge wouldn't this mean they need more food then normal ppl that just veg 2 weeks to a month?
 

Rusty Shakelford

Well-Known Member
I tried to respond to your private message, but the Rollitup system threw a captcha at me, so I filled it out, then it took me to a missing page and upon getting back to my message, it was gone :(.. I tried again, but for whatever reason, it wont let me respond to your message.

Anyway, here is the instructions you were looking for::

Take a new clone and transplant into a small HEMPY SOLO CUP.

Mix up a cup of RO WATER with CNS17 GROW for Coco & Soil,, and get it so your PPM's are 100 on a Meter that uses a .05 Factor. Once we have the 100 ppm feed, you need to get the PH to 5.8 or 5.9 area. Once we have the PH in that area, we feed the little Hempy Solo Cup until Water comes out the Hole,, Then we stop.

Use whats left over and feed her once more the next day until water comes out the hole,, Then stop.

So she now got 2 days of 100 ppm and its now time to mix up 150 ppm. Once that is done, get your PH in the right area and feed the Girl once a morning for the next couple of days.

After those 2 days go by, mix up another feed at 200 ppm this time, and continue to repeat this process every day.. Every 2 Days you will raise the PPM by 50, so as your plants grow, they are getting more feed.

With this system, you cannot over water, and if you need to flush, you simply flush with a 100-200 ppm mix.

When the plant outgrows the SOLO Cup, transplant it into a 3 Gallon FOOD GRADE CONTAINER with a Hole 2" up from the bottom (HEMPY STYLE).. Just keep raising your PPM's 50 every 2 days.

I never check my runoff unless I have to, and I had to once, when I tried to use another brand of coco. Now I just stick to the Botanicare Coco and its great! Never Burns my plants.

NOW -- Once you go into Flower, you can start using the CNS17 BLOOM instead of the GROW,, and toward the end of flower you switch to CNS17 RIPE..

You can also use some additives in Flower if you want. I use the Botanicare PURE BLEND TEA and HYDROPLEX. I also use LIQUID KARMA and some AQUA SHIELD.. NO matter what I use, I start with RO Water and whatever I put into it adds to my PPM's.

My Plants top out in flower at 1050 ppm (.05)... I have 2 bottles of CalMag + on the shelf taking up space and never see a deficiency in my 3 month grow any more. This is my KISS Method,, I get a Hydro Yield without all the Pumps, chillers, leaks, algae or pathogens. Dont have to worry about PH Fluctuations or PPM's dropping in my reservoir. Doesn't get much easier than this.

Hope this helps.
 

jbizness

Active Member
Coco isn't thatt difficult unless u fuck something up bad, u seem to b pretty smart about what to do with ur grow. I'm not trying to scare uu bbut phantom cal mg deficiency 3 weeks inn flower and everything is getting worse I've seen this and its always bugs... u might have root aphids bro.. check for any kind of flyers wwhen i got them i didn't want to believe it until i saw the first flyer and my heart sank..But yea check the web for root aphid symptoms i bet u see plants just like urs with the same question "3 weeks in flower wtf is goin on?"
 

Silky Shagsalot

Well-Known Member
just because your plants are large, doesn't mean they get a higher ppm. all that would mean is that they would eat/drink more. i have the scheme for all of h&g's stuff, and at week 3 of flower, it says to feed 8.5 ml. per gallon. you're adding 8.5 of both a and b right? they also suggest adding the a&b and ph'ing, and then adding supps. and it's ready. i never do that. after base nutes and all supps. then i ph. i don't get why they suggest not ph'ing supplements, lol...
 

Hazed137

Member
jizness;1Coco isn't thatt difficult unless u fuck something up bad said:
Thanks for ur input bro i doubt its bugs tho its been a frigid cold winter ever since I started so I figured bugs wouldn't be that much of an issue is this right or no? Cuz I spend a lot of time with my girls and I've never seen anything flying or crawling around and I'm pretty observant. Just to be sure tho all I doo is look for flying small insects?

Also thanks rusty i appreciate all your help bro I really appreciate it.

Also i think I did my flush wrong I didn't measure the ppms after I just flushed with double the container amounts I don't have a flood table and I'm all tangled in tressil netting should I just cut the netting or is there another way?

And my ppm meter wouldnt even read my current runoff? Does that mean its so high it can't register it cuz it works fine in any other water

And yes i pH after supplements and yea I mix 4 gallons at a time so I'm at 34 ml right now both A n B :/
 

Hazed137

Member
seed.com/hempy-bucket-tutorial/

Let me know if you have any questions.
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Just got an accurate ppm reading of my run off altho it was from 3 seperate plants all on the same feed and planted the same day and the reading was 1980 ppm!!!!? And that was AFTER i had to dilute it with tap water half way just to get a reading because by itself it was to high for my meter to even read!!! So yes i had to cut my runoff in half with tap water to reach a reading of 1980ppm!!! Holy crap this has to definatly be a lock out but im so confused why have i experienced no nute burn at all throughout the whole 2 month grow? This is so confusing to me. So i should definatly do a super good flush right or is it possible for some nute lines to actually need that high of a ppm when feed, this is the ppm of my whole resevoir btw if that matters? Also does it effect the ppm reading if there was some bits of coco in the water and the trays the water collected in were the same trays that runoff has been evaporating and leaving salt behind for about 3 weeks idk if that matters much or not but what do you suggest i do? I feel like i have to be testing wrong some how or something because hslf my plants that ive used the same water on the whole time are looking beautiful and have absolutely 0 problems and now those are getting worse from the flush although their runoff was unreadable as well i assume from being too high mine goes up to 2000 i believe its the hanna primo 2. The only plants that got the yellowing at the tops that im talking about where the ones that were super close to my 1000w, now they are all 16 inches away it almost seems like light bleaching to me now cuz the areas already effected have gotten worse but it hasent really spread from the top until i did the flush and now im seeing problems on all of them and on all parts of the plants i just dont get it should i just try a normal feed cuz like i said the other plants which are the same age and fed the same water are all perfect which were the ones furthest from the light, ill post pics tmrw, i just dont get it cuz now im seeing defs everywhere
 

Hazed137

Member
Im sure I figured out my problem this picture is picture perfect what mine look like. http://www.420magazine.com/gallery/data/500/DSC_0005_copy.JPG

I moved my light up 6 more inches and dulled it to 750.

So should i resume feeding as usual because now all the plants even the ones not effected are all slowly showing deficiencies not rapidly like a lockout. It has to be light burn cuz they got so big my 1000w was like 6 inch away my bad :$ but I don't know how to explain my insanely high ppm tests so mind boggling this is
 

welshwizzard

Well-Known Member
Cal Mag and Epsom salts.

But I though I read you are in week 7 so I wouldnt sweat it as you'll be flushing very very soon if your in coco
 

Hazed137

Member
Nah sorry I vegged for 7 weeks and am on week 3 flower, i did small flush and am ganna feed today but not use calmag just incase the cal is building up then i will judge from there if i start to see a mag deficiency because im already certain it was light burn in my pics now i have to address their hunger from the flush lol cuz i use drip clean which is supposed to keep salts from building up so ive never really had to flush all to much in my experience
 

Silky Shagsalot

Well-Known Member
i've re-read this thread, and well..... i saw very few references to you allowing for run-off, except when talking about flushing. there is only one way to get the high ppm's you were talking about, and that's from a lack of run-off, period. you don't flush coco, this isn't soil. tap water is usable, but why use it, lol??? all of the ppm in the tap water is just that much nutrient solution you can't use from the bottle. and cal-mag, lol. i don't get why you're using it. you're in coco specific nutes, you don't need it. you're in coco specific nutes, you don't need it. i also remember you talking about it being cold. i'll assume you are making sure your lights off temps. are within range. having your containers on cold floor/cement, can really cool the root-zone, not good. coco basics; ph to 5.8. "always," allow for a good 10-15% run-off at every feed. don't flush until the end, and don't use plain water. don't use high feed ppm's, it's coco not soil. fresh air/airflow important.
 

Hazed137

Member


Now what the heck is this? found a couple only on the very bottom of the plants and its only on the new shoots like this one I cut off. It almost looks like a sulfer def or is it the normal yellowing/lime green u get on new rapid growth?
 
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