Please help!! problems in CoCo !

been looking everywhere and can't figure this out, all of a sudden all the top leaves of 2 of my girls are turning bright yellow like in the pics, I don't get it it came out of no where after switched from a 1-0-0 calmag to calmag plus 2-0-0 but I think it may have started a day before the switch but I'm not certain.

Anyways

Grown medium is Canna CoCo
Nutrient line is the full house and garden line minus magic green
am using R/O water with 5ml calmag plus per gallon.
Just started 3rd week of flower
1000w air cooled hps 10inch away(i know some ppl will diss that or blame that but its been that close from day 1 and never had this problem till now)
Temps and humidity are steady
Great air circulation

Also ive been getting mixed answeres when growing in coco useing RO water are you supose to use calmag with every watering during flower? Because the girls have loved it up until now? It almost looks like a lockout too me maybe? Idk any help would be awesome thanks you pics included

see the chart or suffa!



you wanna do it your way ....Fine! don't bitch at us for seeing you right ....!

Hazed,
Most of your leaves are super dark indicating excessive feeding. That can lock out other nutrients. So your yellowing (which I don't see) plus the signs of Mg deficiency are not because you aren't providing enough...but rather because there's too much.

The usual routine is to flush, hold off feedings for awhile to let your plant use up some of the stored nutes...and then resume at a lower level.
JD

Hazed,
I do see the yellowing but your picture is so dark plus compared to the other dark leaves...well it hardly seems like a bright yellow. But you're there with the plants. Are the leaves as dark as they look in the picture??
JD

Trust me its bright yellow its hard to see in those pics with my hps off here are a few more that should help.
The leaves dont seem to dark in person idk tho they look normal to me
I am following H&G nutrient feed chart to the T and havent had any problems before until now.


I feed with every watering but thats because I grow in coco I thought u had to feed every watering? Haven't had any problems at all till the 2nd week flower n I vegged for 7 weeks so idk?


Trust me its bright yellow its hard to see in those pics with my hps off here are a few more that should help.
The leaves dont seem to dark in person idk tho they look normal to me
I am following H&G nutrient feed chart to the T and havent had any problems before until now.

I feed with every watering but thats because I grow in coco I thought u had to feed every watering? Haven't had any problems at all till the 2nd week flower n I vegged for 7 weeks so idk?

Hazed,
I see what you mean...it was the photo that made everything look soo dark. A couple things come to mind. One is that following the manufacturers directions to a T isn't always a good idea. Very often those directions are too high.

And whenever I see someone who is feeding regularly and having more then one deficiency symptom...I always get suspicious of a lockout. So I guess I'm standing by my original position. How could it possibly be an actual deficiency. Makes no sense.

Are you watering to at least 10% runoff? That helps prevent accumulation of salts. And do you have ph and ppm measuring tools? Measure runoff ppm especially which will tell you if you have salts built up in the coco.
JD

OK I just did a flush before they went to sleep so tmrw I will try a very light feed and measure the ppms. Is this how I should do that? Or do you flush with plain water then check the ppm? and yes I have both pH n ppm meters. Also should I be feeding with every watering? Cause I have been maybe that's why? I also can only think its a lock out but why's it only effect the very top sugar leaves? Also since I just flushed what should be my next step?

Thanks for your quick help

Hazed,
Maybe feed 1/4 strength...and be sure to measure the ppm of what's going in. You can't draw any major conclusions from the actual runoff number...but if it is way higher then what's going in, then you can conclude that the solution is picking up nutrient salts as it passes through the coco. When things are running normally, the runoff should be lower then what goes in.

Your plants aren't burned so once you determine the cause of this, they'll be able to get back on track in short order.
JD

I just tested the runoff ppm after my flush it was 1400. Is this bad? Do I keep flushing till 0ppm?
Im just starting week 3 of bloom and i vegged for 7 weeks

Im assuming that this means it probably is a nutrient lock out? If so how do I fix it

Ps the flush water was RO. 0ppm

Hazed,
That means that the amount of nutrient salts stacked up in your coco is even higher. Amazing you aren't having more problems. These days people are using a mild nutrient solution for flushing. So maybe 1/4 strength or whatever nute strength is needed to get perhaps 250 ppm. Then flush until the runoff is coming out lower then 250ppm. You need to get all that crap out of your coco. I can't recall if you're adding calmag or a mg supplement...if so, use that in the flush then enough nutes on top oif that to get 250ppm or thereabouts. This isn't exact science here. But ph to the desired ph to minimize trauma to your plants.

Once the flush is finished, drop your nutes to maybe half of what you were using and be sure to water to 10% runoff. That should prevent this from happening again.
JD

So I should mix some RO water to 200ppm and just drown them until the runoff is close to that if not lower?? How would I know how much house and garden notes to add in order to keep its around 200ppm? The note line make me add multiple different things or should I only add the base coco notes, cocos A and cocos B, no other additives except calmag? And yes I've always used GH 1-0-0 calmag and I just switched to calmag plus 2-0-0 from botanicare n that's when all this seemed to happens.I just don't get how this happened now when I've been doing this for a month and a half and haven't had any issues till the end of week 2 bloom.I'll try what you suggested tmrw and see what happens, thanks again for all your help.Also I've been using calmag plus 5ml per gallon every watering for the whole grow should I cut back on that now the I'm going on week 3 bloom? I've been reading that too much calmag in flower locks out P or something. Or should I increase my calmag dose since it does look like a mg deficiency which calmag plus(the new one I switched to) has less mg and more CA then the calmag I used before it.

i alternate feed/water/feed/water I love how easy coco is to fix once you figure out the problem a quick flush and fresh nutrients is all we need.

Hazed,
Because coco tends to hang on to mg and Ca and because your plants were exhibiting a mild Mg deficiency are my reasons to suggest that you use Calmag in the flush water. Far as what else you add...it just doesn't matter that much. The extra N in the different Calmag formula you started using may have been enough to tip the scales on the lockout.

But yes, that's what a flush is all about...and not to worry, you won't drowned your plant. And maybe, like Urban suggested, every other day feeding might not be a bad idea. You're actually lucky you got a lockout rather then a nutrient burn.
JD

Hazed137 said:

So I should mix some RO water to 200ppm and just drown them until the runoff is close to that if not lower?? How would I know how much house and garden notes to add in order to keep its around 200ppm? The note line make me add multiple different things or should I only add the base coco notes, cocos A and cocos B, no other additives except calmag? And yes I've always used GH 1-0-0 calmag and I just switched to calmag plus 2-0-0 from botanicare n that's when all this seemed to happens.I just don't get how this happened now when I've been doing this for a month and a half and haven't had any issues till the end of week 2 bloom.I'll try what you suggested tmrw and see what happens, thanks again for all your help.Also I've been using calmag plus 5ml per gallon every watering for the whole grow should I cut back on that now the I'm going on week 3 bloom? I've been reading that too much calmag in flower locks out P or something. Or should I increase my calmag dose since it does look like a mg deficiency which calmag plus(the new one I switched to) has less mg and more CA then the calmag I used before it.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, do you use RO water? Or just tap water thus the reason for the Epsom salt?

Johnare said:

Hazeinoco tends to hang on to mg and Ca and because your plants were exhibiting a mild Mg deficiency are my reasons to suggest that you use Calmag in the flush water. Far as what else you add...it just doesn't matter that much. The extra N in the different Calmag formula you started using may have been enough to tip the scales on the lockout.

But yes, that's what a flush is all about...and not to worry, you won't drowned your plant. And maybe, like Urban suggested, every other day feeding might not be a bad idea. You're actually lucky you got a lockout rather then a nutrient burn.
JD

Click to expand...

Oops too late on the calmag in my flush i flushed before they went to bed and just used plain RO water Should I do another flush with calmag first thing when they wake up? Also should I start just using Epsom salt instead of calmag? I was reading somewhere that calmag is bad to use in flower cause the calcium builds up in the coco cation. I just don't get how this came out of no where when for a month they were perfect and I've changed nothing except switching to calmag plus.

Also urban are u useing ro water?

Hazed137 said:

Thanks for the info, do you use RO water? Or just tap water thus the reason for the Epsom salt?

Click to expand...

i actually use my tap but it is pretty low ppm for tap 150-170... I still do 1g epsom gallon but only on the feed days..

Hazed,
Damn, you're really high maintenance! lol No reason you can't use tap water for flushing. My point here is to not wash all the Mg and Ca from the coco and have deficiencies afterwords. Coco has a high CEC and normally it's full of Ca and Mg.

The reason you shouldn't use Calmag during flowering is because of the N that it contains. You want N to be low and P and K high in flowering.
JD

So should I ditch the calmag and just use Epsom salt? Or since I'm flushing should I build the CA n mg back up by using calmag a couple times then just using Epsom salt? I can never find a solid answer of this like should I keep using calmag but in less am mounts maybe? Or just ditch it for Epsom salt(I'm using RO water btw)
Also should i do another flush in the morning or wait? Also wouldnt a nutrient lock out effect the whole plant not just the top sugar leaves? Grrrr this is so frustrating

ok gonna post this and not to be an asshole at all because it is the most helpful info i have found since i started running coco...also the link for head goes coco will answer any and all things you can think of but the thread is thousands of pages.

[h=1]Lucas Formula - A Hydroponic, soil, and coco Feeding Regimen[/h]
[h=2]Lucas Formula using General Hydroponics 3-Part System[/h] General Hydroponics makes a 3-part system named the FLORA series. It consists of FLORA GRO, FLORA MICRO, and FLORA BLOOM. These are 3 bottles you buy, that you would normally use together throughout the entire grow. You may use it as per the instructions on the bottle, with excellent results, but...
Lucas figured out that FLORA MICRO contains enough nitrogen, and everything else that MICRO GRO contains, that you use it with FLORA BLOOM alone, saving you from having to buy FLORA GRO.
How do you use it? Simple. Add 8ml of Flora Micro (dark red stuff) to 1 gallon of water*, mix, and then add 16ml of Flora Bloom (pink stuff) into the water, and mix. Done - unless you're growing in coco. If so, see below.'
[h=2]Lucas Formula using General Hydroponics Dry Nutrients (Maxibloom)[/h] MaxiBloom and MaxiGro are dry nutrient also from General Hydroponics. It turns out, Maxibloom, used in a ratio of 7 grams per gallon of water*, is very close to the original Lucas Formula (above.) You do not need MaxiGro, and so this is the cheapest and easiest recipe to use.
Add 7 grams of Maxibloom into 1 gallon of water*, and then adjust the pH, and stir vigorously to dissolve the Maxibloom in the water. I advise putting the 7g of Maxibloom into a cup of warm water, dissolving it, and then adding it to the remaining gallon of water, before pH adjusting and mixing again.

[h=2]Lucas Formula using General Hydroponics FloraNova series[/h] This is probably the easiest (but not cheapest - see MaxiBloom above) feeding plan available. If you're using General Hydroponics' FloraNova Bloom 1-part system, simply add 8ml of FloraNova per gallon of water* and feed.
[h=2]Lucas Formula when growing in Coco Coir - Head's Formula[/h] If you're growing in coco, you may need to adjust the Lucas formula slightly to compensate for a property of coco which may result in a calcium or magnesium deficiency. How? You may be able to get by simply by adding 1-2ml of calmag (or MagiCal+), or 1 gram of Epsom salt (any pharmacy carries this), per gallon of water, before feeding the plants.
There is a modified formula specifically for Coco that consists of using a different ratio: 6ml of Flora Micro, and 9ml of Flora Bloom, per gallon of water, along with 1 gram of Epsom salt per water.
Either works, but be sure to try Head's Formula if you're having deficiencies or other nute/pH problems.
If you are confused or unsure, ask your Weed related questions here!
[h=3]Low light ratio, and flowering vs veg[/h] Lucas Formula should be used in the same ratio throughout the grow. There is a misconception that one should use 5ml of Micro and 10ml of Bloom, when in veg, and switch to 8ml of Micro, and 16ml of Bloom, when flowering.
This was never stated by Lucas himself. He originally stated that the 0-5-10 ratio was for LOW LIGHT situations (fluorescent lighting like PL/L and CFLs, or HID lamps less than 400W), whereas 0-8-16 is for medium to high light (400W+)
[h=3]* What type of water should I use? What about pH/ppm?[/h] The original formula uses reverse osmosis, or RO, water, and is intended to be used without having to measure pH and ppm. Reverse Osmosis water makes this possible because it should, in theory, be the same for everyone. It is filtered water, which you can get either by buying a reverse osmosis filter system, or just buying bottled water (among other brands, Dasani, the bottled tap water is reverse osmosis, for example). One may also use dH2O (distilled water) with good results. You can get distilled water from most convenience stores (Walgreens, CSV, Rite-Aide, etc..)
[h=2]Lucas Formula for seedlings/cuttings[/h] For young plants (< 4 weeks old) or cuttings, which may not be able to handle a full strength feeding formula, may require that you dilute the nutrient solution before feeding. This is OK, just make sure you keep the correct ratio when mixing. For example, 50% strength would be 4ml Micro and 8ml Bloom, or 3.5g of dry Maxibloom per gallon.
[h=2]Lucas Formula with tap water[/h] You may use Lucas Formula with tap water successfully, but this may require pH adjusting on your part. Keep the pH close to 5.8.
[h=2]Can I use additives with Lucas Formula?[/h] You may. It is recommended that you do not introduce additives until your setup is dialed in. After you've ironed out any deficiencies and fully understand how your plant and strain likes to be fed, feel free to begin using additives (such as Floralicious) - not that the additives will help. For increased quality and yield, focus on good genetics, and ample light and temperature control, rather than trying to compensate for those with additives.
Cannabis Questions & Answers (QA)
[h=2]Interested in the details? See the following[/h]

• AskCannabis.com
• SlashCannabis.com
• Cannastats Nutrient Profiles for Cannabis (Cannastats)
• Ask Lucas (CANNABIS-WORLD.ORG)
• Lucas in a nutshell (ICMAG.COM)
• Approximate Lucas w/ GH Dry Nutes (ICMAG.COM)
• H3ad goes coco (ICMAG.COM)
• Lucas Formula - Flora Series Feeding Strategy (ROLLITUP.ORG)

The Lucas Formula is easy, cheap and reliable. Credit for it goes to LUCAS himself.