Please help anyone, cant figure out this grow room.

I currently have two rooms, one of which is impossable to cool. It is 10.5 x 10 with a 2x4 closet area where my electric panal and chiller rez are located. I drew a diagram with most of the hot and cool items in the room so sombody might be able to help with suggestions as to cooling this place off. I am using two portable ac's, a bunch of fans, and chilled water and keep get the room under 87 degrees on the plants. I recently had to replace to 1k lights with 400 watters to mellow it out in there. I dont have an intake or exhaust due to trying to keep the room air saturated with CO2. but I cant add a burner till I get a few degrees to work with, unless I duct off my burner in the adjacent room. The lights are pulling from my roomies closet and dumping into the attic. Please advise. Thank you so much for anyone who can take the time to reply.

BTW, both ac's are portable. I have a window in that room that is currently covered with a plywood box and I was thinking of installing a window shaker in there. I used to have a window shaker like 2 grow houses ago and I remember it being really awsome as far as the cooling it dumped out. I just dont know what size I should get if I go that road. And I also have tried using icebox's off the chiller and it just doesnt really impact the problem at all. They dont provide significant enough cooling to make a huge difference. They heat my chiller water just enough that is gets my rez's around 72 - 75 instead of 68ish without the load of the icebox's. Of course if I could cool this room than my chiller rez would go down in temp with it allowing for me to more easily support the icebox's. All of the ducting is actually 8 in until the end of the run. The reason I necked down to 6 in ducting at the end of the run was that I only have a 6 in holesaw that I used on the roof of the closet and that I figured that the air was only moving around 400 cfm by the time it traveled through all of the twists and turns in the ducting. Thanks you.

Switch the fans, the bigger fan should be the exhaust

and maybe switch to outside air intake, especially if you have a crawl space or such, theair in there is COOL

and necking down at the end is hurting alot, what are you cutting through? drywall, use a serrated kitchen knife, or at harbor freight you can get a jig saw for like 10 bucks, most hardware stores rent tools, also

Thank you so much for the response. I am going to install an 8 in fan at the end of the run today to see if that eliminates any heat. I was also wondering about the 8 in booster fan I have installed about half way through the run, is it going to slow down the overall throughput of these two higher cfm fans at both ends of the run? It is 471 cfm.

I lined the walls with 6 mm plastic as well and I noticed that two of the walls, one of which is covering the window, are puffing out due to the vaccume I am creating in the room. Meaning that air is entering the room from the plywood box covering the window and under the door where the plastic on the floor is puffing up. I dont really know what to do about this or if I should do anything at all. I am assuming that the vacume is being created by the single hose portable ac I have up there when it expels air. And possably from little tape holes in the lights.

the best tape is the foil, and insulated ductingwill help eliminate pinholes

the fact that you have such a negative pressure as to suck in the plastic on the walls would indicate a substantial vacuum leak

I took the advice and installed a another 8 in fan at the end of the light run, but I still necked down to a 6 in hole at the very end, I know that this will reduce the throughput a little bit but I doubled the exiting cfm with the 8 in fan so maybe it will help. I am wondering if the 8 in booster half way through the run is gonna slow things down though being only 471 cfm?

And I dont know what is causing the vacume as I only have the AC's running in there right now. I turned off the scrubber so I dont think it is that. I will try to turn off the ac's and light fans and see if the vacume goes down a bit. If it only happens when the light fans are on, I will know I have a leak there, if it only happens when the ac's are going, I will know that it is that.

And all of my ducting is insulated.

And I have foil tape over the edges of all of the lights and on the seams of where the plastic on the walls meets.

Here is an updated drawing with the changes I made based on the advice I recieved.

Just to report back in I dropped the heat from 85-87 on the plant tubs to 82-84 on the tubs, so at least shit is growing again but I still need to shave off more if anyone can help. Otherwise I cant institute CO2. And as far as the vacume goes, most of it is because that single hose AC is exhausting room air so I would like to do away with that too. I am thinking of adding a window shaker ac so that I might get rid of both portable ac's but I dont know what size I am gonna need, any suggestions?

what is the output temperature of your inline fan ductwork for the lights? It seems like an awful lot of lights for just 1 vent line. If the temperature going out is relatively high then the ductwork is likely radiating heat into the room.

Also, are your input and output ducts near each other wherever they exit at the lower left side of the diagram? This can cause a feedback loop where warm return air is being fed into the intake duct and heated further. I would try to get them separated if possible.

i don't think the smaller booster matters in the fact it's less cfm, i'm pretty sure more air than what the fan is rated can pass through the hole

and if you could get that intake from outside somewhere you'd be dialed right in

i thought when running co2 it was possible to run higher temps, say in the mid to upper 90's?

a. your two portable a/c's are plenty to cool that space and that amount of equipment watts IF they are operating efficiently. several things to help that:

1. use insulated ducting in place of the cheap plastic ducting that comes with the units. the exhaust from an a/c is hotter than the cool air is cool and lots of that heat radiates into the room if you don't insulate the exhaust ducting.

2. shorten the exhaust line as much as possible while having as few turns as possible.

3. add a booster fan if the exhaust line is longer than 6 feet or so.

4. get your room cool without any equipment on so you start at a low temperature.

5. duct some of the cool air from your single hose unit to the input of the dual hose a/c

5. clean the a/c filters regularly.

b. that really is too many lights with too much heat to line up one after another. i doubt you're getting much cooling of the last couple of lights?? lots of ducting, but you're probably better setting up 3 lines of 1000 watts total each line.

I am pulling air from my roomies closet and expelling hot air into the attict. Although it is an interesting point that the duct itself was resonating heat, I was considering that earlier. I dont know the temp of the exhaust but I may to to stick a thermometer in there tommorow "lights are off right now" and reply.

As far as CO2 goes.....Yes you can flower with good results at higher temps such as 85 degrees. But I still think 72-77 is ideal for most strains and I would love to have 74 degrees with CO2 enrichment, that would be manly. As far as getting into the 90's, from my understanding that is just bad nomatter what you are doing. But yes alot of guys say that 85 is your desired temp with CO2 but I still think mid 70's. And it also depends on wattage. The more wattage you are using the higher u can run your ppm's I am pretty sure

Desertrat, you are the fucking man! I agree with all of that and am already doing most of it.

A. I agree, based on bulb heat 22k btu should have that room like a fucking ice cube. I knocked down to 400 watter in a couple spots just to try and mellow it out even more.....the shame......

1. I actually wrapped that cheap plastic hose with the insulation from an insulated piece of ducting, is that acceptable? Or should I be using straight insulated ducting?

2. Done, but I still have bends though, just by the lay of the land if you know what I mean. I will take a pic tommorow and post it and see what you think.

3. This is a great idea and I thought about it before and thought I might be overdoing it, but after hearing you I will go get some inline fans and do it up.

4. every day at 6am the room starts off about 68 degrees when the lights go on. But thats as cool as it gets. It is upstairs in Socal. The only shit that runs in there at night is 1 gh TNC pump and one fan when I get deeper into flower to scrub.

5. That sounds so rad, I didnt know that you could do that. Then the air comes super cold out of the one you are ducting into right?

6. Once every week or two I clean all of the air filters.

B. I thought about this as well but there is really no way I could do it. The agreement with my roomates is that I would keep all holes and cutting in the closets.

But thank you so much everyone for all of your insights. By taking advice I got here I already knocked it down past 85, thank god, so at least shit is growing.

new ideas:
i didn't mention it before, but all your lighting ducts should be insulated as well.
it's a pain, but if you have lights on from 10 pm to 10 am your temps will be much lower and you still get some face time with your plants.
old ideas:

1. I actually wrapped that cheap plastic hose with the insulation from an insulated piece of ducting, is that acceptable? Or should I be using straight insulated ducting?

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simple - if the line feels hot it's not insulated enough.

2. I will take a pic tommorow and post it and see what you think.

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got it you're stuck with room geometry but no kinks that aren't needed
3. it's really important to get heat away from the a/c compressor, so if you have a long exhaust line the compressor blower needs some help. again, feel the line, if it's hot you need more airflow.

5. Then the air comes super cold out of the one you are ducting into right?

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i've got 75 f house-cooled air feeding into a two hose a/c and get air cooled into the sixties when dealing with + 100 f ambient temps.