dank smoker420
Well-Known Member
hmm sorry im wrong than. doesnt make sense to me, i guess cause im a soil guy.
Plants dieing under blackstar240 (AGAIN!) help
- Thread starter kang420
- Start date
kang420
Well-Known Member
Yeah mate i trimmed off some burned leaves and it seems the damage has not gotten any worse so i have my fingers crossed, i have a seedling in the same room with a 45w cfl right above it but even with the cfl on the led light is over powering it and the seedling is dieing, so i took it outta the grow room and put it in a cupboard with a 125w cfl on its own to see if it recovers as its too young to handle the leds ( i hope thats the problem anyway! )
corners
Well-Known Member
2ml seems small. I think it says 2 ml or more per litter on the bottle doesnt it? Ill go check in a minute
corners
Well-Known Member
american gallon
It could very well be the water you use. They should have a spreadsheet where you bottle it of its metal contents.
If your buying it, might as well just buy pure distilled water from the store, at least than you know its distilled and how much calmag you can add. I let all my water air out
corners
Well-Known Member
Make sure you turn the lights off.
You can also take distilled water and a little bit of Epsom salt and foliar spray. This will show quicker results than any watering solution thought he soil to fix this issue
corners
Well-Known Member
Usually adding more nutrients solves very few marijuana problems, usually makes it worse.Especially if you aren't sure what the issue is. If its not feeding enough it will just be smaller or stretch or something.
Imo id buy ro or distilled water, than you can cross problems off since you know the water is pure.. I think your tap or spring water is the issue compounded by nutes to fix it maybe?Then test the runoff to see.
midnightfarmer
Member
I have read somewhere that led's have to be like 12"-20" from the plants or it will kill them. The article said if you use leds gone are the days of having the lights 6" from your plants.
missnu
Well-Known Member
Is it possible that you are overwatering? Because overwatering will make the leaves die back like that..regardless of medium, or lights though...so you say these same plants are alright under HPS? If so then I have to ask, if you think the LED is the issue, then why not switch to the HPS?
missnu
Well-Known Member
Well water is also better if used right away..since there is no chlorine there is nothing to fend off bacteria and what not...you can grow all manner of funky things in well water left where it gets any light...so unless those bottles you are putting it in are black and light proof that very well could be your issue. Also as water sits it loses it's oxygen content, so that could be another issue. Either way...try watering with only fresh out of the tap water for a bit and see if anything gets better. I also have a well and know that if my water sits for even a day or 2 it isn't anything I would want to drink, or give to my plants...If it is in some sort of light proof reservoir then it should last a few days, but if we are talking filling water jugs or something that probably isn't that great.
chazbolin
Well-Known Member
Haven't seen the spectral distribution charts on these LED panels but from the looks of it I would bet the shift to red/far red spectrums has reduced the panels production of blue spectrums. Lack of blue will most definitely affect plant health as spectrums in 500nm region are essential for the accessory pigment carotenoid. Carotenoids are produced in the chloroplasts as well, but are not green in color.
Carotenoids are usually red, orange or yellow pigments. Because these pigments don't reflect green light, they make use of the green wavelengths of light that the more dominant chlorophyll cannot. As LED panels concentrate on emitting UV/R/FR they don't want to add to the panel cost by not adding LED's that emit enough energy in the blue region. If this region is not available to the plant then the plant will stress.
The reason the Metal Halide doesn't give you the problems like you're seeing under the LED is the MH covers the blue region to roughly 90% of the plants carotenoid region. The problem with the MH is heat, spectrum shift, lumen depreciation and no red for flower. So you end up forcing flower with photoperiod adjustment and a R/FR/IR source like HPS which lacks UV/B so the plants don't trigger the kind of trichome production that a broad spectrum lamp emitting a bit of UVb at flower will produce for a lot less wattage and heat than an HPS lamp.
So before you revert back to MH toss a 420 in there and get back to me in three days.
johnnymcpotts
Active Member
I grow with LED lights and have had similar problems. I also switched from soil (ocean forest) to cocoa thinking it would help the grow and found it did the reverse. So my first suggestion is pick up a good soil. I mix Dr. Earth soil with cocoa and Pro Mix and have found it to work better (so far)
I also switched my flower time from 12/12 to 10/14 and again, so far, I'm seeing good things.
I'm a new grower all around and everyone is pretty new to LED but as of yet I would say get a good soil, use Cal Mag on water days and start the light high and slowly move it down to figure out what the best height is. I use T5 for veg but when I switch to LED in flower I start them about 2.5 feet above and after a few days I move it down a few inches and start to do so daily till I see it is stressing the girls out.
I have a few journal entries that will show you what I've been doing, I use T5 to veg and now use a combo of LED, HPS, CFL depending on what station/stage of growth they are in.
Good luck
I also switched my flower time from 12/12 to 10/14 and again, so far, I'm seeing good things.
I'm a new grower all around and everyone is pretty new to LED but as of yet I would say get a good soil, use Cal Mag on water days and start the light high and slowly move it down to figure out what the best height is. I use T5 for veg but when I switch to LED in flower I start them about 2.5 feet above and after a few days I move it down a few inches and start to do so daily till I see it is stressing the girls out.
I have a few journal entries that will show you what I've been doing, I use T5 to veg and now use a combo of LED, HPS, CFL depending on what station/stage of growth they are in.
Good luck
Thanks.I got a lot of blue but don't know the numbers.Any suggestions on what to use for the 420?These are supposed to be 14 and 12 spec. panels.Haven't seen the spectral distribution charts on these LED panels but from the looks of it I would bet the shift to red/far red spectrums has reduced the panels production of blue spectrums. Lack of blue will most definitely affect plant health as spectrums in 500nm region are essential for the accessory pigment carotenoid. Carotenoids are produced in the chloroplasts as well, but are not green in color.
Carotenoids are usually red, orange or yellow pigments. Because these pigments don't reflect green light, they make use of the green wavelengths of light that the more dominant chlorophyll cannot. As LED panels concentrate on emitting UV/R/FR they don't want to add to the panel cost by not adding LED's that emit enough energy in the blue region. If this region is not available to the plant then the plant will stress.
The reason the Metal Halide doesn't give you the problems like you're seeing under the LED is the MH covers the blue region to roughly 90% of the plants carotenoid region. The problem with the MH is heat, spectrum shift, lumen depreciation and no red for flower. So you end up forcing flower with photoperiod adjustment and a R/FR/IR source like HPS which lacks UV/B so the plants don't trigger the kind of trichome production that a broad spectrum lamp emitting a bit of UVb at flower will produce for a lot less wattage and heat than an HPS lamp.
So before you revert back to MH toss a 420 in there and get back to me in three days.
I've been running the lights 28" above the ladys.I think I'm done with the sunshine mix gonna go with a good dirt and try an experiment with some time release nutes.From what I've been reading I may have a salt build up.The girls aren't using up the goods as fast as the hps.Gave em a good flush with some oxygenated water and thats all for at least a week, probably 2.Thanks for the help
chazbolin
Well-Known Member
Sorry for not being clear. I was referring to the inda-gro 420 series light for your garden not a specific spectrum for your LED panel.
The carotenoid region needs 480- 550nm. Since this an area that is inside and outside chlorophyll B absorption spectra it's not usually covered by older generation LED panels that will give more attention to UV/B and R spectrums. Fortunately it's easy to tell if your light is generating a 550nm wavelength since the light output will be white to the eye and the plant will look green since this is an area that in terms of PAR sensitivity is absorbed but to a lesser degree than UV/B - R/FR/IR so it reflects, to the eye, the green color we see when we look at an outdoor plant's leaves.
You also should be aware that a cannabis plant requires 20-25 moles per day or it is not getting enough light in the PAR regions. This is a measurement that requires you to know how many PAR photons are striking the plant over the course of the 'lights on' photoperiod. In outdoor gardening it's referred to as the daily light integral for that species. Based on region and time of year the amount of PAR photons will vary and this affects what crops can be grown based on natural light conditions. This is natures way of promoting crop rotation.
In indoor gardening we are attempting to reproduce ideal outdoor conditions. It's critical the lamps cover the spectrums and intensities that the plant needs for optimized DLI. Mimicking the suns intensity is not possible so we have to use man made products that get as close to those PAR spectrums as possible and than adjust photoperiod to give the plants the Moles/Day that optimize growth. Some LED panels that are being built today for single panel veg-flower growing are beginning to use white LED to pick up the carotenoid region that were previously thought to be less relevant than the UV/B and R/FR/IR spectrums.
Not sure if it's the straight water or the 7500k MH I put in the middle but the girls have responded very nicely.I did a cheap nute test on the dirt and the levels were off the chart and I had been feeding half strength.Switched 4 of the LEDs to red and put the MH in the middle.This is working nicely.May have to feed soon.Thanks again chaz.Hows your ladies kang ?