Pig valve

K81.UK

Well-Known Member
6DD915AD-57D9-4B35-95C8-4E50D17E10CD.jpeg
Has anyone tried on of these for a drip feeding system?

I always thought they were for splitting air, not water. But more and more sellers are advertising them for hydro and irrigation.

I like how sturdy they are for the price.
 

Mr.Head

Well-Known Member
You'll need a lot of pressure for that small ID. You'd get much better control over your flow rates with something like Orbit/Octabubbler/FloraFlex.

I'd be concerned about the cheap chinesium leaching toxic shit personally. Those valves will be stuck in a week. I wouldn't consider those cheap at all. An octabubbler is cheaper than the 10 output.
 

K81.UK

Well-Known Member
@Mr.Head it was toxicity that I was worried about.

I thought the could be good for running down the centre of a 4x2 tray.

I will look at the options you mentioned. Appreciate you’re advice.
 

donddt

New Member
Has anyone tried on of these for a drip feeding system?

I always thought they were for splitting air, not water. But more and more sellers are advertising them for hydro and irrigation.

I like how sturdy they are for the price.
valve manufacturer
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Has anyone tried on of these for a drip feeding system?

I always thought they were for splitting air, not water. But more and more sellers are advertising them for hydro and irrigation.

I like how sturdy they are for the price.
valve manufacturer
Any one in particular? Ball vales can be used for air or liquids and the SS ones would be useful for acidic nutrient flows.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
@Mr.Head it was toxicity that I was worried about.

I thought the could be good for running down the centre of a 4x2 tray.

I will look at the options you mentioned. Appreciate you’re advice.
Even stainless steel chinesium should be OK but most are chrome plated steel and would likely corrode inside with acidic nutes.

I have a couple of those and I bet if I filled the larger one with nutes of a known ppm and let it soak for a week I could then test the ppm and if it went up know it was corroding metals from in there. Hmmm . . .

:peace:
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
Even stainless steel chinesium should be OK but most are chrome plated steel and would likely corrode inside with acidic nutes.

I have a couple of those and I bet if I filled the larger one with nutes of a known ppm and let it soak for a week I could then test the ppm and if it went up know it was corroding metals from in there. Hmmm . . .

:peace:
Except HCl
 

cannabineer

Ursus marijanus
What's hydrochloric acid got to do with it? You mean that HCl could corrode SS? Some strong acids surely can but I don't add HCl to my nutes.
In practice you are correct. I geeked to the way I read it.
I’ve used hardware-store muriatic to descale grow equipment. It works a treat, but stainless and Delrin do poorly with it.
/tangent
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
In practice you are correct. I geeked to the way I read it.
I’ve used hardware-store muriatic to descale grow equipment. It works a treat, but stainless and Delrin do poorly with it.
/tangent
Plastic ball valves would be the best for nutes. Got lots of those, SS and brass ones locally. I like them for the hoses outside but need to make sure they are drained and works the valve a bit to get any water out of the body or they can crack in the winter. $15 for a 3/4".

:peace:
 
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