PH is Essential

Ammastor

Ammastor

Active Member
Figured I would post this chart that I have had for a long while. I am sure it has been on here before and most of you have seen it but if not this may be of help to some of you that are having issues with some of your plants. As PH ranges are critical to get right for growth, health, and higher yields.

View attachment 2888510

This chart shows at what PH different nutrients are absorbed by the little girls. Helpful for diagnosing. Especially in Soil.
What I recommend people doing is keeping a log of PH as you test it by date time and so on.

If your plants run into a problem you can refer to this chart for trouble shooting a deficiency.

OR

Use it as a guide to where your PH should be in soil or hydro
 
M

marcu5

Active Member
and make sure your pH meter is properly calibrated. any significant slip in the meters reading can cost you a lot, especially during mid to late fl.
 
M

Mr Samsung

Member
Just recovering from a uncalibrated ph pen now, ph was way too low and I have not got a phosphorus lockout with two weeks left in flower
 
P

plaguedog

Active Member
Your water source and the alkalinity in it is more important. So is the type of nitrogen you are feeding your plants. They both have far more of an impact in a soil/soiless grow on your substrate's pH then just the pH of your water alone.

Don't mistake alkalinity for being alkaline, two completely different issues.

If you are using tap water or more importantly well water, you should have it tested or get a pond test kit to see what the alkalinity content is.

Lets say you have a pH of 9.0 but an alkalinity of 40 ppm compared to a water source with 7.0 pH and an alkalinity of 340 ppm. Which one do you think will effect the substrate pH more? The water with 7.0 pH will raise your substrate's pH substantially faster because of the high level of alkalinity. From most of the studies I have read an alkalinity between 40 ppm and 120 ppm are the acceptable ranges, and with the relative short time period of the growth of the MJ plant in containers, the substrates pH will rarely ever drift, no matter what you pH your solution to. Most soil/soiless substrate (peat/coco/pine based) have a strong enough buffer capability to handle a wide range of pH readings with acceptable alkalinity content.


"Professor Kim Williams from Kansas State University says that an "unbuffered water pH will quickly change to the pH of the mix."

source: http://www.gpnmag.com/Grower-101-Top...nt-article3494

And when I asked her to clarify this, her response was the following, "When you inject acid into irrigation water, it's true that you're adjusting the pH, but the reason that it works is that you're neutralizing alkalinity in the water."

In other words if you are using R.O. or distilled or tap water with low alkalinity like I have than the pH of your irrigation water quickly changes to the pH of the soilless medium because the water has little to no buffering capacity. That is what alkalinity is."

As posted on another forum, by Carl Carlson.....
 
Cat Jockey

Cat Jockey

New Member
I agree with your premise, however that particular chart ain't worth the electrons it is printed on. If you look at that chart you posted, in the lower right corner you can see where the black border has been erased. That is because someone blurred out what used to be above that black line:

© St0ney

I would not trust St0ney's grow advice at the time he made this chart, which I was around for. Checking out a chart I prefer, with a yellow line drawn around the supposed optimal range for hydro, any wonder if St0ney was holding his res around 5.8 that he had some Mg exchange issues and felt he needed to solve by jacking up his res by throwing Epsom Salts in it?:

pH Chart1.jpg
 
Southerner

Southerner

Well-Known Member
If you are using organic soil and nutes you shouldn't be wasting your time on pH, thats what humates are for.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top