Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
Last run was 14 jars so each jar is appr an oz with 6 plants but had some issues along the way as usual lol. Hopefully next one will be better
and yes flood and drain using totes and net pots
PH changing in hydro to rapidly.
- Thread starter STR8QU4D5
- Start date
and yes flood and drain using totes and net potsRight on. How many days do you usually veg? 1 month?Last run was 14 jars so each jar is appr an oz with 6 plants but had some issues along the way as usual lol. Hopefully next one will be better
Budley Doright
Well-Known Member
I did with the last run but was waiting for the flowering plants to finish and it was to long and they got to big, that was one of a few fuck ups. There are a few pics of what was a bad two runs lol.
MasterpieceNutes
Well-Known Member
Interesting read. I'd dump the bubblers first.
Second: What ph adjust you using? DON'T use citric acid. There's a shit-ton of organisms that will process that stuff like candy. Brown slimes especially. Ran into this issue once using citric.. PH rise daily! They laugh at my h202, slime everywhere! Solution: Physan 20 and switch to diff acid = fix. Even cleaned the roots.
Second: What ph adjust you using? DON'T use citric acid. There's a shit-ton of organisms that will process that stuff like candy. Brown slimes especially. Ran into this issue once using citric.. PH rise daily! They laugh at my h202, slime everywhere! Solution: Physan 20 and switch to diff acid = fix. Even cleaned the roots.
Thanks for the reply. But I use PH down, not citric acid. Also, im not interested in using fungicides like Physan 20. Its definitely the bubbler doing it. Its been a very noticeable thing and also, I had to boost nutes to 1100 to stop the PH from changing as well. They were sucking hard..
MasterpieceNutes
Well-Known Member
Physan 20 only if your issue was a mold. Should have clarified that.
1100 ppm for ph stablization = sad nute imo. A gallon of RO set to 600ppm with your nute formula should settle in at 5.8. MOST nute manufacturers build around this model. If it's taking 1200ppm, I'd say you're using a weak formula.
You can ph buffer your res to avoid big ph swings. Usually not necessary. Just feed your res to desired ppm and LOWER an additional .2 (5.8 -> 5.6). It's same principle that can be used for calmag lockout in coco.
Interesting that it was bubbler. Using flood and drain many years now. Never used a bubbler. And I do 2 week res changes.
1100 ppm for ph stablization = sad nute imo. A gallon of RO set to 600ppm with your nute formula should settle in at 5.8. MOST nute manufacturers build around this model. If it's taking 1200ppm, I'd say you're using a weak formula.
You can ph buffer your res to avoid big ph swings. Usually not necessary. Just feed your res to desired ppm and LOWER an additional .2 (5.8 -> 5.6). It's same principle that can be used for calmag lockout in coco.
Interesting that it was bubbler. Using flood and drain many years now. Never used a bubbler. And I do 2 week res changes.
nutes are, DNF A&B, DNF Black, Silica, SM-90, Cal-Mag, Grozyme, Super Thrive, H202.
JJARTS
Member
JJARTS
Member
But he said he use peroxide and it can be bad for beneficial bacteries... cilica raise the ph as calmag, but nutrient base(food) use to low ph... so when mixing the nutrients , you must start (if use them) with cilica and calmag, they will raise the ph considerably, sometime more than 8.0, after it, the nutrients base will decrease that ph, after you run the pump, the plants get some nutrients and the mediun itself filter some nutrients as a result you will experience a ph raise if the ph was high in the water before you ad the nutrients... I run my pump all the time 12 hours non stop while the lights are on, at the begining it hapen in this way or when plants are small, 1st or 2 nd week cause the plants barely eat, but after it when I fill my reservoir, next day, the ppm raise and the ph decrease, the ppm raise because the water evaporation or the temperature of the room, and ph decrease because the water is more acid for the descomposition of nutrients and bacteries that growing in it, i just ad plain water that will low the ppm and raise the ph and put more volume in my tank to compensate the level... I dont add nutrients or ph up to my reservoir until next week when I put the new food, I use clay as mediun, so before I run with a new food I let the system run just with water a full day to clean salts and stuff stick on the clay, pipes, feeders, and tank, and I use that day of water to add the peroxid or any incepticide or antifungal if I going to use them, also sm-90 raise the ph too. I try to be away of the ph busters, trying to find a balance between hard water, water from the deshumidifier or AC that are ppm low but ph 7.0, and the nutrients that low ph, and cilica and calmag that raise the ph.. if you play with those factors, the need of ph busters will be reduced... but every nutrients brands or kind are diferent, so you have to find out how to mix the ones you are using, to change amounts to get a more perfect balance for you final food... I have a 45 gallon tank that I mix with nutrients to 35 gallons, and it is ok, i get the perfect number in that way, if I prepare my mix based in 45 gallon, my final mix will be to high and I will need to pur water on it so it will be more than 45 gallons... but I put the nutrients for 35 gallons in a 45 gallons of water, so I have 10 gallons to play with if the ph is low I can add cilica or calmag for thoses 10 gallons without pass over the amount recomended for the manufacturer... also if the ph go to low I be able to add less base nutrients that low the ph... I will try everything before I decide to use any ph buster that have no beneficial ingredient for a plant...
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