PF tek - Shotgun Terrarium - GT & Cambodians Cubensis

dankillerbs said:

If you read my post right you would see that I said to pick aborts, but leave pins that haven't matured yet.

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and if you read mine you would notice that my post said you shouldn't dunk with imature pins, you should only dunk with NO pins, so if you have undeveloped pins, let them finnish then dunk

DarthD3vl said:

im gonna have to disagree...
at the end of each flush all the mushrooms should be fully mature, if there not.. your dunking to early

When Should I Dunk and Roll?

• Between flushes. Once you have picked all the fruits off the cake or none have been growing for a few days you know your flush is over. Now is the time to dunk again, preparing the substrate for the next flush.

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• 
  
  thats how the tek is written, and how every tek of dunk and roll i could find was written, even in my mycology books it states to let all mushrooms reach level of maturity wanted BEFORE dunking, I didn't invent it im just restating it as it is...

Lets see what the creator of lets grow mushrooms has to say about it. Here are multiple post from RR explaining this to people.

You do NOT pick all the small pins when you harvest first flush. If you do you destroy the second and third flushes.
Dunking substrates is an excellent way to hydrate between flushes. Recase the divits where the substrate was damaged by picking.
The number of pins that develop in the second flush has nothing at all to do with the first flush, unless you do something silly like pick them off. Many times, as said above, the pins for the first three flushes all form at once, then sit dormant waiting their turn.

The first flush is over when you've picked the mature fruits. The second flush will begin when the pins you LEAVE in place begin to grow a few days after you pick. Dunking won't hurt the pins. Just make sure you give plenty of air exchange when you place the tray back in the fruiting chamber, so the water can evaporate off the pins.
RR

Mycelium generally sets all the primordia/pins for the first three flushes at the time of the first flush. You'll notice that only about a third or so of the pins grow to maturity. There will be a few aborts that the heads turn black on, but the rest of the pins will be fine and just sitting there dormant. IF YOU PICK THOSE PINS, YOU RUIN YOUR SECOND AND THIRD FLUSH! Pick the mature fruits and any obvious aborts, but leave the rest.

My advice was for cased substrate as well. Cakes are no differnt from bulk grows, only smaller. Never pick pins/primordia between flushes. If so, you ruin the next flush. Aborts will have black heads and be obviously dead. If the pins have normal color heads, they're just sitting dormant waiting their turn at the nutrients the substrate has to offer.
RR

As said earlier, pins that are not aborts are the pins that were set for the second flush. That's the nature of fungi. Often, pins for the first three flushes are all set at the same time, but through a process we don't understand yet, the mycelium figures out which ones to mature and which ones to hold back for flush two and later. Picking them off sets you back.

As for 2nd flush strategy, dunking will tend to initiate it, but it also helps to let the substrate dry out somewhat and 'rest' before initiating second flush with the soaking. Shiitake growers typically remove the blocks from the fruiting area, to allow them to dry in the colonization room at low humidity. This strategy works with cubes too, but you only need to let them rest for 6 to 7 days, not the two weeks we let shiitake sit. By allowing the substrate to partially dry, and then soaking, the next flush usually comes right along. In this regard, we're mimicking nature with warm temperatures, followed by a soaking rain.

In general, you're going to get 80% or so of your potential product on the first two flushes, provided you've initiated them properly. Many growers feel their fruiting area real estate is better served by replacing post 2nd flush substrates with fresh ones to keep the cycle going at maximum. Everyone just needs to experiment and see what works best under their conditions.
RR


This has all been covered many times before. You should NEVER pick non-aborts. It's extremely common for the fruits for the first two or three flushes to be set at the time of first flush, where they remain dormant until their time comes.

You should dunk and roll prior to first flush, and then dunk only after first flush(no roll), and as said above, never pick pins that are not black.

In addition, it's a total myth that aborts contaminate. They don't. Even if they rotted, bacteria isn't a contaminant to fully colonized substrates.
RR

well we all know he's all knowing and even wrote the tek himself right... oh wait he didn't invent the tek... and if dunking mushrooms in water is good for them surely spraying them with water wouldn't hurt, oh wait it does... looks like some facts got mixed up with one mans opinion.

although I admit some cakes flush constantly for the first few flushes(rarely) and you may have no choice to either dunk with them on there, (then they would suffer from the same damage constant water causes them just like spraying them directly which we all know is stupid) or pick them and dunk and wait for next flush, if your waiting for them to fully mature to get spores then you will run into this problem more often as your second flush may start before you pick them, but the time period you should pick your shrooms over can be up to 24 hours...

in those cases your really damned if you do and if you dont so then its up to opinions, which is were im sure RR had made his decision that the way he does it is right... but follow what ever you feel makes more since, we all know rr is infoulable.

I did just send RR a private message to try and discuss this with him, maybe he has proof somewere, and he just hasn't posted it.
we'll see if he reply's its not likely since it may be considered a cultivation question which he refuses to answer in private messages.....

I never said he created the dunk n roll tek... He created the shotgun chamber and let's grow mushrooms DVD. I'm pretty sure he won't even read your message though unfortunately... It's says in bold in his sig that he will not answer any pm's. But I can assure you that spaying and dunking pins is not gonna cause damage... It's when they don't have the chance to dry off is when it gives you problems, which would go to show you need more FAE. Think about it, these things come from nature... The only reason a setup like kitty had needed a finer misting bottle was because she didn't have proper FAE and the big droplets of water were not given a chance to dry off... You know mushrooms get rained on in nature? It's not like god pulls out his fine mister to care for his fungi. Also,Please don't take any of my remarks as telling you your wrong or trying to debate you or anything... Just sharing what I've learned for the progression of knowledge.

UPDATE

the golden teachers are STILL flushing.
i kind of lost count of which flush they are on due to different cake's pinsets were set at different times.

i believe its around 5 or 6. i think this will be my last time flushing them. not much going down anymore but still getting mushrooms. not much though.

the cambodians are awesome and are on their 2nd or 3rd flush! i got 4 more jars knocked up from the rest of the syringe that are into week 1 of incubation.

i enjoy the effects of the cambodians more then the golden teachers.
even though i enjoy both.
cambodians seem to be more clear headed and visual. while golden teachers are still visual but a lot more thought provoked and mind expanding.

made a few spore prints yesterday and going to try making my own syringe tonight.
once i successfully make a new syringe and buy more online, im going to try choempi's bulk mono tek with horse POOP.

what strain would you all recommend with his tek?
or what strains work well with bulk teks??

i was thinking about cambodians again because i liked them so much.
but i've been looking into other cubensis strains and im really liking the sound of the Thai strains such as the Lipa Yai or Koh Samui.
OR i like the sound of Ecuadorians.
what would you all say?

also...
i didn't care for microsupply spores all too much...
it seemed these spores took way too long to colonize.
so would you recommend to use a different spore distributer or buy spore prints instead from now on?

thank you all for your input!!!
-BBQ

- Psilocybe Cubensis Cambodia
- Psilocybe Cubensis B+
- Psilocybe Cubensis Mazatapec

are on my list of tryables! got three syringes for 10 bucks each.

JP

nice heatless! Anyways, to answer your question, any strain will work fine if they are from a good vendor... I recommend ralphstersspores.com.... Strain names for mushrooms are really just advertising arent like cannabis strains. When you have multi spore there are litterally thousands of "strains" and each mushroom will not be the same, size and potency wise. You have to get into strain isolation to get the same fruits everytime. Anyways, I'd really like to see you try and only roll some cakes once and never pick off pins unless they are black capped if you down for side by side results... It would be really interesting to see a comparison.

dankillerbs said:

nice heatless! Anyways, to answer your question, any strain will work fine if they are from a good vendor... I recommend ralphstersspores.com.... Strain names for mushrooms are really just advertising arent like cannabis strains. When you have multi spore there are litterally thousands of "strains" and each mushroom will not be the same, size and potency wise. You have to get into strain isolation to get the same fruits everytime. Anyways, I'd really like to see you try and only roll some cakes once and never pick off pins unless they are black capped if you down for side by side results... It would be really interesting to see a comparison.

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i will do this for sure in my future pf teks.
i think imma still do pf tek while trying mono tubs.

imma try my next pf tek with penis envy spores and see how good of results i can get with that strain with the pf tek!!!

Nice! I think you will like the results! Basically you only harvest the mature fruits and leave any pins that arent aborts. If harvesting a mature fruit is going to damage healthy pins you can take some alcohol wiped scissors and cut the fruit as close to the base as you can then harvest the stump once the other pins mature. The reason you don't roll cakes with pins is because you can damage the pins which could lead to contamination... That's probably what darth was referring to earlier when he mentioned pins contaminating, because it's not dunking them that lead to contams... Mushrooms ARE mycellium so if dunking them was a problem, so would dunking a substrate... It's stagnant water left in contact with myc that leads to contams which is from too little FAE.

sounds good to me.

=]

yeah....im still figuring out whats too much misting or too less FAE.

its all coming together though.

i wanna become a master at pinsets

HeatlessBBQ said:

View attachment 1378345View attachment 1378347View attachment 1378348

check out some of these beauties from recent flushes

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damn that is what i want to do man. how f dup will that get you?

greenkrakzak said:

damn that is what i want to do man. how f dup will that get you?

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the first image of that cluster.
if you ate all of that, it'd make you trip pretty damn hard.
probably weighs 50 grams fresh.
5 grams dried.

so if you havn't eaten mushies for at least a month or have NO tolerance to mushrooms.
and you ate that whole 5 grams at once.
you'd probably trip to level 4 FOR SURE and maybe even level 5.

just ordered some more spores today to try some new experiments.
=]

i will post a new thread once i figure out what I'm going to do.

ill post a link once its going.

but spores i ordered:

Penis Envy
PES Hawaiian
Treasure Coast
Pietro Rican

My GT's are taking a while to grow too. Your jars are looking good! keep up the great grow! sub'D

JP

Awesome thread. great job

so I have a bunch of jars colonizing right now.
and i got a bunch of new strains.
-Penis Envy
-Huautla (i think i may have spelled wrong)
-PES Hawaiians
-Puerto Rican
-Treasure Coast
all from sporeworks.
thanks for the link darth. =]

but anywho...
i wanna try casings.
I'm going to first try with pf tek brf cakes.
then move into wild bird seed. but when i do that, i may just do monotubs.
but for now. its casings

do you recommend using hpoo or coir?
i have also heard of using earth worm casings instead of hpoo.

thanks all. =]

also. what works best with penis envy? and what tek?

Bucket with peroxide water and a lid....

I assume you mean your wanting to try bulk substrates, not casings Heatless. Spawning to a bulk substrate should not be refered to as "casing". Your wanting to use colonized BRF cakes as spawn to colonize a larger substrate, correct? A casing is a non-nutritious layer(verm, peat moss) that is added to an already colonized bulk substrate(BRF, Coir, Hpoo) to provide a moist environment for pinning. Basically the moisture in the casing material is providing a nice micro climate with high rh% to stimulate pinning. Rolling in verm is basically like casing for BRF cakes, or a mix of peat moss and verm is used on bulk substrates. You dont want the casing to fully colonize which would defeat the purpose of having the moist environment on top and seperate from the colonized myc. Substrates such as BRF,coir, and hpoo are all rich in nutrients and thus are not used in casings, rather they are used for bulk substrates which you do want to colonize quickly.

sorry i keep refering to bulk subs as casings.

i have always called them "casings"

sorry i got "casing layer" and a "casing" confused.
they are the same thing.

but yes.
i wanna spawn my colonized cakes into a bigger substrate
for bigger yields.


what do all of you recommend and suggest?

pf tek to spawn to bulk sub?
or a mono tub tek with hpoop using WBS?

keep in mind, I want to get the most out of my Penis Envys. and PF cakes dont seem to get what i want.