Pest problem starting

Ok as we all know pests are an issue we must prevent and control.In my newest grow room inside condition. I prepped well did a good seal on the room and any openings and have a negative pressure in the room. I did a bomb prior to my actual grow and then move my inside clones from a bug free environment into the room then began prevetive spraying with neem soap insecticide all organic. Well noticed today a few leaves getting some tell tale white blotches so got the old maginfying glass out and wouldnt you know it those pesky mites have made it in and survived.These are a little different then mite I have seen before not red or organish like spider mites but even smaller and brown or dark green. If I get one on my finger and smash it they are plant green so they are feeding quite well.I did the best I could preventing them and gave another extra dose of neem soap spray but what I need is something to get to all the planst since spraying in the middle or lower parts of the plants is impossible since the grow is so dense. Im looking to find a bug bomb or simmilar that is organic or non hazardous to humane foods to put in the room and close it up and eliminate this basterds. I thought about preditor bugs but time they arrive and are able to control any infestation it d be a waste. I have about 4 weeks or less max til harvest so a quicker fix is what Im looking for anyone know any such bomb products?

You might want to try some pryethrin foggers. Bomb and then bomb again a week later. This place sells all the good stuff for bug control.

EARTH FRIENDLY PEST/DISEASE CONTROL

yes bomb is awesome, but you have to bomb it continuously for 1-4 days to elimate all the adults then the babies. You can go to your local hydro store they should have doom fogger there, that one works great. Or you can go to dollar stores and make sure you pick out the foggers that is atleast 98% pyrethrin those work just as good.

Alternative Garden Supply - Hydroponics & Indoor Gardening Super Store

so this is one kind of what your talking about right.I wont buy this one even though they have a local place as its exspensive as hell. Damn safe to use bug killers are espensive unlike th $6 3 packs of raid bombs lol.. So think 3 days 1 can a day in my 8 x8 x10 room should do it then keep neem soaping after should do it.

Also is it pyrethrin foggers or pryethrin foggers

Yea those are the Pyrethrum fogers i use. Once infected I bomb, spray, and bomb again all within a week or two. Then i just spray every couple weeks to keep them away. If your budding be carefully of spraying to much on the colas and causing bud rot. You should also check the square footage of the fogers you use.

Well looks like I will be ordering Doktor doom as its the best from what I have researched and was able to confirm with growers I know. There was another that I could get locally called ToTal release but they want $26 a can and cant guarantee its safeness.I contacted Doktor Dooms makers and they told me do 3 treatmenst 1 every 4 days to stop the life cycle since soider mites when feel threatened lay eggs that hatch every 4 days so hit them 3 times and that stops that isse.No one carries it locally so I have to oredr it ebay has it for $9 a can from a seattle company thats closest and cheapest I can find it.Will post back when its done.....

ps... 98% is impossible to find I checked about 20 different brands the best was 12.4 % most bombs are around .4% even doktor doom is no where close to 98% you have any brands that would have that much? most products have an other ingredient of 95% or higher

Dunno if this is of any use to you or maybe you already know about it,i hate spraying of buds with anything and bombing and smoking etc. sucks really.

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Bad Mites: Two Spotted Spider Mites[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Spider Mites are one of the most persistent pests for the indoor gardener.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Mites are tiny (about the size of a period {.}), and crawl on the underside of the plant’s foliage.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]These mites are yellow, tan or clear in colour and have two black spots on each side.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Spider mite damage starts as yellow specks on the leaves causing yellow mottling . . . killing the leaves.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]As the spider mite colony grows, webbing is present along the center vein on the underside of the leaves and in the new growth of the plant.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Mites use the webbing to crawl from plant to plant.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Bad Mites like it HOT and DRY.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif] Good Mites: Phytoseiulus persimilis[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]One of the fastest acting predatory spider mites.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]It consumes 20 young and 7 adult two spotted spider mites a day!!![/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Females are 0.5mm in size, red or orange in colour and pear shaped.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Males and young (nymphs) are much smaller in size and lighter in colour.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]P. persimilis produces NO WEBBING.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Good Mites like it COOL and HUMID, optimal temperature is 20-30 degrees c (70-80 degrees f) and humidity of 70-80%.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]At 24 degrees C (75 degrees F), good bugs will out breed bad bugs 2:1, but not at 30 degrees C (85 degrees F), it is the opposite.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Lower room temperatures to 24-27 degrees C (75-85 degrees F) and increase humidity; Bad bugs like it HOT and DRY!!![/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Move fans off plants; it creates dry areas, aim the fans at walls or ceiling to get better air circulation.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]Clean away all webbing with a soap spray and damp cloth.[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif] Release of Predatory Mites:[/FONT]

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Controlling bad mites with good mites will “INCREASE YOUR YEILD!!!”
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Predatory mites are environmentally friendly and can be used up to the day of harvest.
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IMPORTANT: Good bugs are eating the bad bugs so order enough:
If you have WEBBING: Release 10,000 P. persimilis.
To MAINTAIN: Release 2,000-10,000 P. persimilis as needed.



What is Available for Spider Mites?
1.
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P. PERSIMILIS – cooler areas 20-30 degrees C (70-85 degrees F), and stay lower on plants.
2.
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NEW ZEALAND STRAIN P. PERSIMILIS – for hotter areas (30-38 degrees C/90-100 degrees F), and will stay on the top of the plant.
3.
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N. CALIFORNICUS – low prey, and live without prey waiting for eggs to hatch.
4.
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M. LONGIPES – hot (18-37 degrees C/65-100 degrees F), and dry conditions (40-90%).
5.
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G. OCCIDENTALIS – outdoor control.
6.
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A. FALLACIES – survive at wide range of temperatures 5-40 degrees C (40-100 degrees F), and establish themselves with pollen and nectar sources.
7.
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FELTIELLA – needs very high humidity (80%), and can be used with P. persimilis.
8.
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STETHORUS “Spider Mite Destroyer” – this small black lady beetle can eat up to 40 mites/day and will establish a colony over 18-20 days, used with P. persimils for quick knock down.
9.
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Special “SPIDER MITE TRI PAK” on bean leaves includes:2500 P. persimilis New Zealand strain, 1000 A. fallacies and 200 Stethorus.

Link to suppliers
Spider Mite Predators