(P) and (K) In roots organic soil

Probably OK now that they've grown some roots. It's usually just that first rockwool-->soil transplant that you've gotta be careful with.

You can still reduce the chances of additional burning by starting with the light high and inching it down day by day. More light, more transpiration. Lower humidity, more transpiration. More heat, more transpiration. The more the plant transpires, the the more it "drinks". This is a major over simplification, but basically if you keep the transpiration low when the soil is hot, you can avoid some burning.

Really, though... I think they'll be fine at this point.

Good luck.

st0wandgrow said:

I still use my RO unit, but when it takes a shit I will happily water my organic girls with tap water. There are people that have forgotten more about gardening than you and I will ever know that use tap water with brilliant results.

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Do you add any calmag? How much or to what ppm?

I have an RO filter but have been using water from my pond for my plants lately.

I should feed myself as well as I do my plants.

BUDies said:

Just finished transplanting. But now it's hitting me... Since they were gettin burnt shouldn't I have waited to transplanted because aren't they just going to get way more burnt now? Can't believe I didn't think about this before

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Dude, you're WAY over-​engineering this. The cure is NOT worse than the problem. Spicy knows his shit, listen up!

Trousers said:

Do you add any calmag? How much or to what ppm?

I have an RO filter but have been using water from my pond for my plants lately.

I should feed myself as well as I do my plants.

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Ha! Ain't that the truth.

I was using CalMg+ form General Organics for a while when I made my first batches of soil. I severely underestimated how much liming ingredients that needed to be added. Friggin peat is acidic. The calmag worked fine as a ban-daid, but I have since added more oyster shell flour and garden gypsum to my mix, and I also picked up some calcium carbonate from Home Depot and added that as well. Everything looks to be smooth sailing now....

I have a bottle of general organics cal mag, I'll start feeding with it next watering. I haven't watered yet and I felt the soil and it still felt a little damp from the soil being fresh. Plan on watering them all for the first time tomorrow.

Just thought id give a little update... All were transplanted 3 days ago, only half have been watered so far in their final pots, but there just not gettin better. For their first water I did 1/2 tsp calmag 6 ml hygrozyme 10 ml ancient amber (leonardite & humic acid) and 4 ml silica shield all per gallon. This light feed doesn't at all affect npk but going against my better judgement if by next feeding they don't start recovering I'm gonna water with a half dose of roots A (2-.25-1.5) and a full dose of kelp extract (0-2-2). I know over feeding is worse than under feeding, but there just getting yellower and yellower and have barely grown at all since I got them. This roots organic soil just does not seem very good.

That feeding absolutely DID "affect NPK". Hygrozyme is an enzyme solution; it contains many of the same enzymes that soil bacteria use to solubilize organic nutrients in soil. That humic/fulvic then increases the bioavailability and uptake of the newly solubilized nutrients. Might be a problem, might not.

Watering is a part of transplanting. I hope you gave them all a nice deep watering in their new pots the day you transplanted.

I can only tell you what I would do... The rest is up to you. Give those things WATER ONLY for at least a week in that fresh soil. Roots organic soil is loaded with nutrients.

It'll take a few days to see improvement, and you'll mostly see it in the new growth. Damaged leaves can't really repair themselves.

SpicySativa said:

That feeding absolutely DID "affect NPK". Hygrozyme is an enzyme solution; it contains many of the same enzymes that soil bacteria use to solubilize organic nutrients in soil. That humic/fulvic then increases the bioavailability and uptake of the newly solubilized nutrients. Might be a problem, might not.

Watering is a part of transplanting. I hope you gave them all a nice deep watering in their new pots the day you transplanted.

I can only tell you what I would do... The rest is up to you. Give those things WATER ONLY for at least a week in that fresh soil. Roots organic soil is loaded with nutrients.

It'll take a few days to see improvement, and you'll mostly see it in the new growth. Damaged leaves can't really repair themselves.

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I always over water on my first water after transplant to make sure all the soil is saturated, and I've heard since it has a lot of coco it's impossible to over water, I just water to a generous amount of runoff. What I meant by it won't affect NPK is that I won't directly be adding any more, just making what is already in the soil more available. I'm running two different strains, blue dream and Jilly bean. The Jilly beans are starting to look a little better... But still getting a lot of yellowing on lower growth, but te blue dreams are just not recovering, anybody have any experience with blue dream? Is it a really heavy or light feeder?

These are 2 of the 4 blue dreams i have, still not sure whats going on with these they just dont seem to really be recovering very well. stll havent put anything but RO water in them hoping they get better, but i think im only gonna give it another watering before i start adding some light teas and what not cause i just cant stand to see them looking like this.


here are some pics of 2 of the 5 jilly bean i have, there newer growth was starting to look healthy and green, but some older leaves are showing what appears to be a nitrogen defeciency and potassium deficiency, so next watering im gonna start with a 1/2 strength feeding on these 5

Your overfeeding them man. Just give them molasses water and foliar feed em. Hit them w aloe and kelp foliar , add fish emulsion too for better results.

Btw my blue dreams are light feeders , at that age that soil is plenty warm.

What Are some of the signs That I'm over feeding my plants? Just so I know what to look for cause to me they look deficient And would a feeding with like molasses hygrozyme and humics be too much? also what's the stretch like on blue dream? All my BD's are like 2/3 the height of my Jilly beans and I wasn't sure whether they would catch up in flower or if I need to do some major training to keep my canopy even

BUDies - Blue Dream is definitely a big stretcher. Where did you get your Blue Dream clones? All the BD I've seen here in the Bay Area (where Blue Dream originated, if I recall) has VERY, VERY narrow leaves.

Regarding the "burn symptoms", it's more a process of elimination... That Roots soil has more than enough nutrition in it to sustain a plant of that size (especially one that isn't growing rapidly). There's just no way that little stunted plant has used up all the nutrients in a big ol' pot of fresh soil. It's not deficient...

Your dose of hygrozyme likely free'd up enough nutrient from the soil to continue burning your poor little plant.

Last time I'm gonna write this: WATER ONLY for a week, and raise the light up a little until healthy growth resumes. No hygrozyme, no humic/fulvic, no nothin. Just water from your tap...

Signs of burning are different at different stages of plant growth. When you put a clone into soil that's too hot, it shows symptoms of shock; leaves curl downward but remain generally stiff (not floppy like an under watered plant), leaf tips and edges yellow and burn, growth generally stunted, not much happening...

The symptoms are a little different when you over fertilize a plant that's already growing rapidly. Less like shock, more like nutrient toxicity (there are pictures of this all over the place).

I actually just had this same thing happen with an XJ-13 clone. I want to grow out 4, so I bought 5. Four of them thrived in my homemade (rather "hot") soil, while the one with weakest looking roots showed shock symptoms; it looked a lot like your BD's. That one got tossed in the worm bin; it was the weakest of the bunch, so it got culled.

I got all my clones from a delivery service called bamf, I buy their solventless and flower on a weekly basis and everything they have is top quality, and if assume the reason the clones were so shitty this time was because they just got a new person doing their cloning. Is Jilly bean more of a low or high yielder? Those are starting to look healthier and healthier after I did the light feeding, which is why I wasn't sure whether to give the blue dream the same thing, but I guess I'll just continue to give them water.

I grew some Jillybean a while ago. I wrote it up over at ICMag (hope it's alright to post this link...):

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=254764

The Jilly yielded nicely. I don't weigh my harvests, but I'd call it a medium+ yielder compared to all the other strains I've tried. Granted I don't seek out high yielders...