Over or under watering?

Renfro

Well-Known Member
If the roots are brown then it's over watering.

Over watering isn't how much but how often. You should water heavily and then let the soil dry out mostly before watering again. How were you watering?

They don't look like they will recover TBH.
 
If the roots are brown then it's over watering.

Over watering isn't how much but how often. You should water heavily and then let the soil dry out mostly before watering again. How were you watering?

They don't look like they will recover TBH.
I watered every morning.. every other day they where recently transplanted.. eh so sad
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Plants that small do better in small pots so the soil doesn't stay saturated as long. Saturated soil basically drowns the plants, lack of oxygen at the root zone causes pythium (root rot).

You will notice the plants get a little growth spurt just before the soil is dry enough to water. The more often you get that wet dry cycle the faster they grow. So pot size should be matched to plant size and the soil allowed to dry between watering.
 
Well you can give it a go, but that far gone I highly doubt it. If they are autos just toss them. If regs then you could prune off the wilted larger leaves and pray.
That wouldnt shock them even more? I keep getting this feeling like I need to prone them off but I feared really fucking them up
 

JoeBlow5823

Well-Known Member
Help.. humity issues?? Tell me what you see ... anyway these two can make it back?
Do I need to trim the bigger fan leaves to help it focus on regrowth?
How do I save them??
Is that plant outside? Whats the temperatures like? Almost looks like it got frost bit.
 

Renfro

Well-Known Member
That wouldnt shock them even more? I keep getting this feeling like I need to prone them off but I feared really fucking them up
The heavily wilted fans aren't gonna come back, they are currently stressing the plant be adding more surface area for evaporation. Honestly the roots are rotted so I doubt that you will save them. If you do save them it will take some time for new roots to grow and be able to keep up with the plants needs so we need to reduce those needs.

Basically the plant is dying because the roots have been amputated by necrosis caused by the pythium infection.

Chances of saving the plant are maybe 20%

I would just keep the nodes and any leaves ditch the wilted fans.
This is to reduce the moisture requirements since the roots are mostly dead
I would reduce lighting intensity and heat
This is again to reduce the moisture requirements
I would use a product like hydroguard, SAG GFF, Tribus (anything with Bacillus amyloliquefaciens)
This is to combat the pythium
I would use a good enzyme like cannazyme but wait until the soil is dry to apply.
This is to breakdown the dead tissue so it's not food for bad bacteria

What to expect if it recovers is the nodes live and are very slow to start growing. Once the roots start to establish you will see the nodes start to grow again.

Again, if this plant is an auto then most of it's predetermined lifespan is consumed with disease and recovery so it's pointless.

Really IMO the only reason to go through all of this is if the genetics are irreplaceable. It is very likely that you would get back to harvest faster and with greater results if you started over from seed.
 
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