Organic vs chemical

Pros and cons?
As well as this i have heard that a simple tomato feed(high in N) will work well for veg as mj plants n tomatos grow very similarly dont no how much truth there is to this however it would make certain peoples lifes a lot easier ha for chemical has anyone got anything tried and tested they could recommend for outdoor uk plots? Thanks!

Haven't seen one of these threads in a while.......facepalm.jpg

Chems = control.

How do you want it? If you understand your plant and recognize what it needs, when it needs it, and want to be able to give it to them, then chemicals are the way to go.

If you want to add amendments to soil and rely on the soil and lil bugs to keep things on track then organics are the way to go. You could always supplement with Chems as needed.

On a molecular level the plants can't tell the differance.

Personally I run soilless with chemical ferts. I like the complete control.

Hope this helps

Polo

polo the don said:

Chems = control.

How do you want it? If you understand your plant and recognize what it needs, when it needs it, and want to be able to give it to them, then chemicals are the way to go.

If you want to add amendments to soil and rely on the soil and lil bugs to keep things on track then organics are the way to go. You could always supplement with Chems as needed.

On a molecular level the plants can't tell the differance.

Personally I run soilless with chemical ferts. I like the complete control.

Hope this helps

Polo

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Thanks for the helpful reply is extremely appreciated! One question when you say you run soiless with ferts do you use a chemical fert during the vegative stage aswell then? Being a newbie i am overly concerned about burning the beautiful lil fuck*rs

Chem = flush required, higher chance to burn them and can contribute to a huge fail in ur crops taste.

Bio= no flush required, less chance to burn, beter taste, beter end product

chem vs bio? bio all the way.

No brainer. Organics. Especially doing it outside. You already have billions of microbes adapted to your unique climate that are at the ready.

If you want more info say the word.

st0wandgrow said:

No brainer. Organics. Especially doing it outside. You already have billions of microbes adapted to your unique climate that are at the ready.

If you want more info say the word.

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http://www.diy.com/nav/garden/garde...rve-John-Innes-No3-Mature-Plants-20L-11907565

I know this is relatively off topic but is slightly relevant,

Would this (link) mixed with native soil, vermiculite and perlite be a feasible mix? They will already be 3 weeks old when they are transferred into there new,y prepared bed thanks a lot!

TheHazeNKushSmoker said:

Chem = flush required, higher chance to burn them and can contribute to a huge fail in ur crops taste.

Bio= no flush required, less chance to burn, beter taste, beter end product

chem vs bio? bio all the way.

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Had to double take for a minute you are the spitting image of one my pals! Haha thanks for the help!

I personally prefer chems.
Water soluble for ones close by that get babied and then time release for ones way out in the bush.
I haven't flushed since indoor days but I go light on my feedings.
Most tomato formulas work well and get the job done. Jacks Classic is also a nice all around food. Just be sure to check on everything besides NPK. Recently had my first magnesium issue which was fixed in short order after reading around here.

Purp.N.Poonani said:

Had to double take for a minute you are the spitting image of one my pals! Haha thanks for the help!

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Really ahaha Maybe it's me and you dont know it ;D hehe just kidding

TheHazeNKushSmoker said:

Chem = flush required, higher chance to burn them and can contribute to a huge fail in ur crops taste.

Bio= no flush required, less chance to burn, beter taste, beter end product

chem vs bio? bio all the way.

Click to expand...

You have no idea what you are talking about...do you?

SenorBrownWater said:

You have no idea what you are talking about...do you?

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I do now gtfo

TheHazeNKushSmoker said:

I do now gtfo

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If you could STFU and stop spreading misinformation that would be great....

SenorBrownWater said:

If you could STFU and stop spreading misinformation that would be great....

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Nice image, kid. If you could grow up at ur age it would be great. Peace and your the one that clearly spreading shit btw if ur soo good why dont you say something so thisdude can know the best answer? you just come here and start fucking with me. Super mature. cya and have fun in life

TheHazeNKushSmoker said:

Nice image, kid. If you could grow up at ur age it would be great. Peace and your the one that clearly spreading shit btw if ur soo good why dont you say something so thisdude can know the best answer? you just come here and start fucking with me. Super mature. cya and have fun in life

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You should do some more reading and less spouting off regurgitated misinformation....

Whether or not either is "better" as far as results is concerned, I don't know because personally I've always grown organic. However, just like I don't eat food with synthetic chemicals and pesticides because we know they're harmful, I don't want my ganj grown with them either. I doubt there's been any independent testing done but, I'd rather not take the chance.

Whatever floats your boat. Synthetic nutes act faster than organic. Organic is supposed to be healthier I guess. In my own experience organic has given me frostier/ sweeter buds. But that cant be credited directly to the fact that I was using organic nutes. It doesn't really fuckin matter. You're gonna get good weed regardless if you know what you're doin.

Purp.N.Poonani said:

http://www.diy.com/nav/garden/garde...rve-John-Innes-No3-Mature-Plants-20L-11907565

I know this is relatively off topic but is slightly relevant,

Would this (link) mixed with native soil, vermiculite and perlite be a feasible mix? They will already be 3 weeks old when they are transferred into there new,y prepared bed thanks a lot!

Click to expand...

I'm not familiar with that product, so I don't really know ..... but compost is great to use. If it's organic then I would say go for it. A good all purpose organic fertilizer like Espoma Graden Tone, and may be a few meals like alfalafa and kelp meal would be all you would need. Mixing that in with the compost and your native soil would be great. You can use perlite, but I prefer rice hulls or pumice. What type of soil do you have? Sandy, silty, clay? That will determine how much aeration bits (if any) you need to add.

edit: If you do decide to use synthetic ferts, don't get suckered in to the 10 part cannabis specific stuff. You don't need beasty blooms, and ka-ching, and special sauce, and super duper bud blaster, etc. A good 1 or 2 part all puspose fert is all that's needed. Something like Jacks will work fine, and save you a good chunk of money.

st0wandgrow said:

I'm not familiar with that product, so I don't really know ..... but compost is great to use. If it's organic then I would say go for it. A good all purpose organic fertilizer like Espoma Graden Tone, and may be a few meals like alfalafa and kelp meal would be all you would need. Mixing that in with the compost and your native soil would be great. You can use perlite, but I prefer rice hulls or pumice. What type of soil do you have? Sandy, silty, clay? That will determine how much aeration bits (if any) you need to add.

edit: If you do decide to use synthetic ferts, don't get suckered in to the 10 part cannabis specific stuff. You don't need beasty blooms, and ka-ching, and special sauce, and super duper bud blaster, etc. A good 1 or 2 part all puspose fert is all that's needed. Something like Jacks will work fine, and save you a good chunk of money.

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Thanks for the informative reply am slowly getting more of an idea! and its hard to out a finger on really one plot has a nice loamy soil and the other i still have to dig over however it has peat like moss(if thats what you would call it) covering it however there is alot of nettles about aswell which from what my pal told me is indicative of a good native soil.

Quick couple of q's what is the use of alfafa and kelp? And how comes you prefer the alternatives over perlite any reason for this? Thanks again!

Purp.N.Poonani said:

Thanks for the informative reply am slowly getting more of an idea! and its hard to out a finger on really one plot has a nice loamy soil and the other i still have to dig over however it has peat like moss(if thats what you would call it) covering it however there is alot of nettles about aswell which from what my pal told me is indicative of a good native soil.

Quick couple of q's what is the use of alfafa and kelp? And how comes you prefer the alternatives over perlite any reason for this? Thanks again!

Click to expand...

Loamy soil will drain well, so you may not need aeration bits at all. I don't care for perlite because it tends to rise to the surface of the medium defeating it's purpose. It will still work, but I just feel that there are better options. If you have moss and nettles growing in the vicinity that is indeed a good sign! Well established colonies of beneficial microbes abound! That nettle can be chopped, dried, and laid down on the surface ...... or bubbled in a bucket for a great addition to an organic regiment.

The meals I mentioned will supply your plant with micro/macro nutrients over the course of the plants life. When you add it to your bed the microbes in the compost, and your native soil will get to work processing it and turning it in to plant ready food. If all is right, you will really only need to keep the soil moist, and will not have to "fertilize" at all. Just water, and some good luck on the weather!