Organic no till, probiotic, knf, jadam, vermicomposting, soil mixes, sips etc... Q & A

loco41

Well-Known Member
Does Alfalfa effect fungi in the soil? I have read it’s anti-fungal?
I sure hope not, I use it in all sorts of applications. I was reading about compost teas again, I think it was microbe man but maybe it was a different source, but it stated that alfalfa is a source of food for both bacteria and fungi.

would love to hear some more experienced input on this though.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Also anyone here fuck with compost tea ?
imo, you're better off doing a compost extract than a compost tea. the problem with teas is unless you have a microscope, and know what you're looking for, it's hard to quantify how good the tea actually is. so now i just go for the compost extract method. just rinse a couple lbs of quality compost with a gallon or two of water and then apply that as your tea.
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
imo, you're better off doing a compost extract than a compost tea. the problem with teas is unless you have a microscope, and know what you're looking for, it's hard to quantify how good the tea actually is. so now i just go for the compost extract method. just rinse a couple lbs of quality compost with a gallon or two of water and then apply that as your tea.
Yah thats what ive been doing to feed my seedlings.

Throw a few different things in a bucket including dirt, castings, kelp, peat, coconut water karanja, insect frass, compost , fpe.. And other stuff . I just chnge it up everytime like a whiches brew lol then let my cups suck some up through the bottom by half dunking cups in the soup
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Compost teas are unnecessary. Just topdress castings and or compost. Thats all.

If you have worms in your soil. A bottom portion of your soil will be castings too.

The only reason for a compost / ewc tea is if your soil has dried out completely or if you are having ph issues.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Running a new soil mix. Its a budget mix. It seems to be working great.

Peat moss / pumice/ homemade ewc

Per cubic foot
1 cup Bio fish (down to earth)
1 cup bokashi (red wheat, lab, molasses, himilayan salt, photo plus, rock dusts)


After mixing. Water down. Sprinkle a layer of bokashi and spray water . Cover and let cook for 2 weeks. Then turn soil and use.

Still watering with lab and flower power. Watered wcap at mid flower only.

Same foliars I've been doing during veg and early flower

Day 29. Bermuda Breath in a 15 gal fabric pot.
IMG_20190125_050658_584.jpg

IMG_20190125_050658_586.jpg
 

GentleCaveman

Well-Known Member
Hey hyroot. I'm coming to end of my first grow in few weeks. Growing no-till living organic style, got worms, bugs, spiders and all kinds of things living in my pot/tent. I got 40lt soil mix I made in 50lt fabric pot. Mix is equal parts of EWC, Peat, Perlite ammended with crushed crab shells gathered from beach, sprouted barley seed flour and Pre-Mix from biobizz which is supposed to have "seagull waste, rock meals, trace elements, and fungi" quoted from e-mail BioBizz sent as an answer to me asking whats exactly in it. I top dressed it with composted leaves, twigs I gathered from the woods. And I use non composted leaves and twigs as a mulch.

My question is: I'm planning on going with self wicking system my next grow. Do you think its worth it to distrub my soil for that? Because if its I'm gonna ditch the perlite and add pumice instead, and add more rock dust+oyster shell flour that I made.

By the way I'm growing in 2x2 tent. My plan is to grow single plant next run but I got only auto strains at the moment. Do you think I should go with two 25lt pots and grow 2 plants instead of growing single auto in 50lt pot? Since autos don't veg that long that pot size should be enough, no? Or maybe even four plants in 25lt pots if I can fit them in?
 
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projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Spraying soil with faa / fish hydroslate is fine. Full of nutes and amino acids and provides food stock for microbes.
@hyroot i noticed a few of my totes with smaller plants in them , the resevoir smells anarobic, i forgot to add labs this week i think.


so anyways back on schedule i doubled up the labs this week , only have them 3 solocups of water each instead of 2 gallons lol , stupid


anyways you think the smelly ones will balance out with some labs ? unstink
ive got em1 , bokashi , aem , labs on hand if theres anything that might help quicker

thanks pal
 

GentleCaveman

Well-Known Member
Hey hyroot. I'm coming to end of my first grow in few weeks. Growing no-till living organic style, got worms, bugs, spiders and all kinds of things living in my pot/tent. I got 40lt soil mix I made in 50lt fabric pot. Mix is equal parts of EWC, Peat, Perlite ammended with crushed crab shells gathered from beach, sprouted barley seed flour and Pre-Mix from biobizz which is supposed to have "seagull waste, rock meals, trace elements, and fungi" quoted from e-mail BioBizz sent as an answer to me asking whats exactly in it. I top dressed it with composted leaves, twigs I gathered from the woods. And I use non composted leaves and twigs as a mulch.

My question is: I'm planning on going with self wicking system my next grow. Do you think its worth it to distrub my soil for that? Because if its I'm gonna ditch the perlite and add pumice instead, and add more rock dust+oyster shell flour that I made.

By the way I'm growing in 2x2 tent. My plan is to grow single plant next run but I got only auto strains at the moment. Do you think I should go with two 25lt pots and grow 2 plants instead of growing single auto in 50lt pot? Since autos don't veg that long that pot size should be enough, no? Or maybe even four plants in 25lt pots if I can fit them in?
Maybe build something like this? So when I decide growing photoperiods I can remove the cross section in between and grow single big plant without disturbing the soil. Or if I want to, grow 4 and veg for less time. Reason I want to have a cross section separating the soil is I believe there is some weird connection between autoflowering plants. If they are in the same soil, once one starts flowing they all do. So I don't want any pre-ejaculations this time.
 

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BionicΩChronic

Well-Known Member
Piling up last year's soil (120+ gal), cow manure and horsemanure.

(Got over 100gal cow manure this is just a pic of the corner of the pile) once I purchase more ammendments I'll mix it up and let it sit for a month or two (target area for it to finish cooking is march - april)

Making compost

Pretty soon I'll start making LABS (lacto bacillus) Fermented plant juice, and fermented fruit juice.
If I can aquire a blender I see a few fermented fish in my future.
Fish hydroslate is high in N and microbes
Fungi also grow exponentially in number from it's use
http://www.ridgedalepermaculture.com/blog/making-fish-hydrolysate


Still need to buy some organic nutes like seabird and high P.K bat quano. As well as like 5 or 6 fox farms $10 2lb bags of a variety of blended amendments. Maybe a 2 bags of FF soil and perlite to stretch it. Glacial rock dust and kelp meal if I can afford it. This bulk mix will be ready hopefully by March or April. By then my pants will be teens and ready for the uppotting
Also need to pick up a good mulch.

This is my second year organic farming.
Last year I did fairly well and didn't use LABS, FPJ, FFJ, fish hydroslate, AACT or glacial rock dust. So Im hoping this year will beat lasts. Still new so any tips and advice is welcomed :D
 
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Serverchris

Well-Known Member
Running a new soil mix. Its a budget mix. It seems to be working great.

Peat moss / pumice/ homemade ewc

Per cubic foot
1 cup Bio fish (down to earth)
1 cup bokashi (red wheat, lab, molasses, himilayan salt, photo plus, rock dusts)


After mixing. Water down. Sprinkle a layer of bokashi and spray water . Cover and let cook for 2 weeks. Then turn soil and use.

Still watering with lab and flower power. Watered wcap at mid flower only.

Same foliars I've been doing during veg and early flower

Day 29. Bermuda Breath in a 15 gal fabric pot.
View attachment 4271141

View attachment 4271142
Do you use any minerals or liming material in that mix?
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Running a new soil mix. Its a budget mix. It seems to be working great.

Peat moss / pumice/ homemade ewc

Per cubic foot
1 cup Bio fish (down to earth)
1 cup bokashi (red wheat, lab, molasses, himilayan salt, photo plus, rock dusts)


After mixing. Water down. Sprinkle a layer of bokashi and spray water . Cover and let cook for 2 weeks. Then turn soil and use.

Still watering with lab and flower power. Watered wcap at mid flower only.

Same foliars I've been doing during veg and early flower

Day 29. Bermuda Breath in a 15 gal fabric pot.
View attachment 4271141

View attachment 4271142
Whats your ratio for peat/pumice castings? 1/3?

If so you must be using a 1/4 screen for csstings right

It would take alot to get 1/8 lol

I usually throw the 1/4 stuff back into the new bedding for a new worm bin
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Don't double up labs. Just a splash / 1 oz of aem / activated lab in the resi once a week.is all you need. Or 1 tsp of lab concemtrate.

Best sips are soma style sips.
-------------------------

I used recycled soil for my new mix. So probably already full of minerals. Plus there's rock dusts in my bokashi and ferments. For liming I feed my worms a lot of white and charred egg shells. I use home made castings


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I always use the same ratio of castings, pumice, and peat. There's several studies that show castings produce the best results for plant growth and health when it makes up 30% of the soil.
 
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projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Dont double up labs. Just a splash / 1 oz of aem / actuvated lab in the resi once a week.is all you need. Or 1 tsp of lab concemtrate.

Best sips are soma style sips.
-------------------------

I used recycled soil for my new mix. So probably already full of minerals. Plus there's rock dusts in my bokashi and ferments. For liming i feed my worms a lot of white and charred egg shells. I use home made castings


-------------------------------

I always use the same ratio of castings, pumice and peat. There's several studies that show castings prodice the best results for plant growth and health when it makes up 30% of the soil.

how fine do you sieve your castings? 1/4?? 1/8" ?
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Both. Usually 1/8. Sometimes 1/4. Depends on whats in the bin when i harvest them. Not everything is completely broken down when I do.
really eh ?

ive only been saving totaly broken down 1/8 castings..

ive been worried that maybe un broken down meterial might rot and being alot of bad pests ?
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
really eh ?

ive only been saving totaly broken down 1/8 castings..

ive been worried that maybe un broken down meterial might rot and being alot of bad pests ?
I worded that wrong.
It's vermicompost. Not everything gets broken down by worms. A good amount of it gets composted. The compost isn't as fine as the castings.
 
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