hyroot
Well-Known Member
start at the beginning of this thread. I have recipes through this whole thread
Organic no till, probiotic, knf, jadam, vermicomposting, soil mixes, sips etc... Q & A
- Thread starter hyroot
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hyroot
Well-Known Member
worm castings don't need to break down, They're already as broken down as they can be. They're not like typical animal manure at all,.. Bokashi is grains fermented with labs or em1 among a few other inputs. it produces a mat of mycelium fungi which breaks down organic material very fast. Labs and em1 break down organic material the same way. the castings nd peat in the soil mix get used up by the roots for the most part. You could always just top dress compost instead of ewc. Worms in the soil will feed on the compost. Bokashi will also bioremdiate the soil, removing any heavy metals and pathogenic bacteria.
A fade is essentially a nutrient deficiency.
I only apply compost tea's when the soil has dried out or if things are out of wack. The tea will balance things out. a seed sprout tea provides enzymes and trace minerals and carbs and strengthens lateral branching. Alfalfa foliar provides macro nutrients and auxins - triacontanol which improves vegative growth withoutr adding too much leaf as if it were amended in the soil. it also improves trichome production and yield, The ferments improve yield, bud size, brix levels (terpenes) and growth. strengthens roots and adds colors to the plants. The pigments in the fruits are broken down into micro nutrients. It makes green more purple and already purple more red and orange. The ferments like rock dusts also improve denisty.
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hyroot
Well-Known Member
Benefits of Aloe Vera
Aloe has amino acids, anthraquinones, ezymes, minerals, vitamins, lignins, monosaccharide, polysaccharides, salicylic acid, saponins, and sterols.
Amino acids found in Aloe vera include: Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Valine,And Tryptophan. Some Of The Other Non-Essential Amino Acids Found In Aloe Vera Include Alanine, Arginine, Asparagine, Cysteine, Glutamic Acid, Glycine, Histidine, Proline, Serine, Tyrosine, Glutamine, And Aspartic Acid.
Enzymes include Amylase, Bradykinase, Catalase, Cellulas, Lipase, Oxidase, Alkaline Phosphatase, Proteolytias, Creatine Phosphokinase and Carboxypeptidase.
Aloe vera also contains Vitamins B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, and B12 along with Choline, Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc, Manganese, Chromium, Selenium, Copper, Iron, Potassium, Silica Phosphorus, And Sodium
Salicylic acid is involved in local and systemic plant defense responses against pathogens. It plays a role during stresses such as drought, chilling, heavy metal toxicity, heat, and osmotic stress.
Aloe suppresses the growth of pathogenic fungi / bacteria. It doesn't kill the beneficial microbes. Think of it like neem in that aspect.
Aloe has amino acids, anthraquinones, ezymes, minerals, vitamins, lignins, monosaccharide, polysaccharides, salicylic acid, saponins, and sterols.
Amino acids found in Aloe vera include: Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Valine,And Tryptophan. Some Of The Other Non-Essential Amino Acids Found In Aloe Vera Include Alanine, Arginine, Asparagine, Cysteine, Glutamic Acid, Glycine, Histidine, Proline, Serine, Tyrosine, Glutamine, And Aspartic Acid.
Enzymes include Amylase, Bradykinase, Catalase, Cellulas, Lipase, Oxidase, Alkaline Phosphatase, Proteolytias, Creatine Phosphokinase and Carboxypeptidase.
Aloe vera also contains Vitamins B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, and B12 along with Choline, Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc, Manganese, Chromium, Selenium, Copper, Iron, Potassium, Silica Phosphorus, And Sodium
Salicylic acid is involved in local and systemic plant defense responses against pathogens. It plays a role during stresses such as drought, chilling, heavy metal toxicity, heat, and osmotic stress.
Aloe suppresses the growth of pathogenic fungi / bacteria. It doesn't kill the beneficial microbes. Think of it like neem in that aspect.
"The plant feeds what it wants when it wants"
This is always true in any system, even in ones that involve pH, despite what many might imagine reference their ability to talk plant.
In light of the simple reality, it is highly likely none of us even know how the skin cells between our fingers are using the nutrients in our last meal right now, nor do we know for real if the supplemental antioxidants we might consume are having any effect at all, or even if the impacts are good or bad long term, beyond our anecdotes. It is highly unlikely we know what our plants want and when, both in terms of its direct nutrient need and or its symbiosis requirements.
Ergo it can only make sense to try to arrange the things we think today our plants might need, and this is what we all do. Of course plants had a system before we turned up and forced this way or any other and so we are likely more irritating than the presence of sugar in media to a plant
.Molasses plays a huge role in feeding all of us, either in shop brought formats, or in homemade solutions used by small scale farmers all over the world. We and the world need carbohydrates, both simple and complex. Just as we shouldn't live on Snickers bars....so we also shouldnt assume a more complex form of carbohydrate (Chitin or Lignin as examples) does anything more than convert to ATP just as its simpler and more direct relatives do.
Microbes work on different timescales, I fail to understand why there is such a backlash towards sugars!
Plants have been shown to literally round up colonies of yeasts and bacteria, and predate them directly through a process called Rhizophagy. To add to the arguement plants take what they want when they want, It is the plant that will select the make up of its Biome, not you, me, coots, BAS and or molasses
https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2018/09/180917111527.htm
Does anyone know the perfect ratio of fungus to bacteria for cannabis, does this vary based on location, phenotype, environment and more? Plants, like us, only lack a certain number of aminos so I propose it is likely any plant will only recruit microbes its knows that can construct the sub assemblies essential for the building and acquisition of those aminos it is missing, and or the supporting "infrastructure" this including the mechanisms to up regulate it defensive and or reproductive systems etc
if you are "making soil" / "cooking soil" (I also hate this term because we arent really making sand silt clay etc are we?, we are making, or attempting to create humus through forced decomposistion??) then i guess we have to come to terms with chronology and its role in complexity, after we have fully understood what the perfect rate of decomposition cannabis really likes to grow in?
The younger/ more basic the soil, the higher the rates of microbes which grow first and fastest, eg bacteria, and so in turn the higher the pH through the related accumulation of the BioFilms bacteria secrete, as we go through time, so we might add material, (Lignin) which requires different microbes to process, so we might get fungus for example, as these build and begin to take over, the organic acids they secrete lower pH. This process selects for certain biology.
We might add what we think is food or one type or another, but life happens despite of us, not because of us. Just as a plant can select from a diverse portfolio, so can fungus and there is good and bad in this kingdom too, so we might just be growing conditions for other problems by adding more complex forms of carbohydrate.
I note general rules, good root fungus appears to only party with good (in the moment) root bacteria, where bad fungus, eg fusarium, recruit what might be good microbes,and turn them bad by accident of manipulation. So in the case of fusarium, it will recruit pseudomonas fluorescens a common otherwise helpful non plant pathogen/ PSB, but it wont be for the bacteria's ability to mobilize Phosphorous, it will and can however, hijack p.Fluorescens ability to render Hydrogen peroxide via Super Oxide Dismutase, using what we might use as a good antioxidant, to decontaminate anti-fungicides.
Simply for me, we need to have decomposers, but past this we must have the humifiers. Most of us have the decomposing microbes, but we lack the humifiers, we kill these first with bad practice, and so we are are caught trying to feed a whole, uncut chicken to a baby, whose mouth just cant reach around the whole 2kg at once. Rather than accept our role, we can blame molasses
In terms of ferments, Simple cow, horse, sheep, goat manure (whatever you can get and know it should be free of antibiotic run off), untreated water, milk, wood ash, molasses. One barrel with a seal able lid, a bucket, a tap to off gas, eg a simple brass tap, pipe and old plastic bottle with water in. Add all the ingredients and ferment out of the sun and temp changes for 30 days. Use at a rate of 2-7L per 100L water. fresher the shit, better the results imo. Of course adding adherents like Aloe or Prickly pear can be added to help application. You can just make this separately and add it to the OG mix before application to crops
eg
180 litres water
2L Milk
2L Molasses
50KG Fresh Cow Shit
3-5KG Wood Ash or Phosphite
Add manure and ash to 100L water mix well
Using a bucket, mix milk and molasses with 10L water
add this to manure/woodash and mix.
Top up water mix
Seal barrel with a proper lid to start anaerobic fermentation, make sure you have fitted a valve and gas tap to off the gas from the barrel, Hy has a picture above, but a piece of hose approx 1m, 1/2 inch diameter, use a bronze/ copper threaded nipple same diameter as hose, one bottle with water and hook to attach it.
place sealed barrel in stable conditions ideally 30-40C for 20-30 days
You can add other bits to this base mix, including looking at full Super magro type .
You can also make a simple Mineral Mix, or Bordeaux Blend to help with plant problems using say Copper Sulfate, Slaked Lime, Potassium Soap and water
eg 5 ounces of Copper Sufate, 5 ounces of Slaked/Quick Lime, 120grams of KSoap, 4 gallons of water. Scale to meet your need of course.
its all easy stuff
Put the copper in water mix
Dissolve Lime in remaining water and mix
Once mixed separately, add together, adding the Copper to the Lime not the other way round, stir continuously, check pH by putting a small knife or metal in,, its it comes out rusty, add more lime, if not its ready to use. Apply at 2:1
all of this stuff is open source, much of it is formed in a world outside the USA or English speaking nations, or of course we might say those places forced to be innovative based on poverty levels and so on.
good luck and happy growing
eg
180 litres water
2L Milk
2L Molasses
50KG Fresh Cow Shit
3-5KG Wood Ash or Phosphite
Add manure and ash to 100L water mix well
Using a bucket, mix milk and molasses with 10L water
add this to manure/woodash and mix.
Top up water mix
Seal barrel with a proper lid to start anaerobic fermentation, make sure you have fitted a valve and gas tap to off the gas from the barrel, Hy has a picture above, but a piece of hose approx 1m, 1/2 inch diameter, use a bronze/ copper threaded nipple same diameter as hose, one bottle with water and hook to attach it.
place sealed barrel in stable conditions ideally 30-40C for 20-30 days
You can add other bits to this base mix, including looking at full Super magro type .
You can also make a simple Mineral Mix, or Bordeaux Blend to help with plant problems using say Copper Sulfate, Slaked Lime, Potassium Soap and water
eg 5 ounces of Copper Sufate, 5 ounces of Slaked/Quick Lime, 120grams of KSoap, 4 gallons of water. Scale to meet your need of course.
its all easy stuff
Put the copper in water mix
Dissolve Lime in remaining water and mix
Once mixed separately, add together, adding the Copper to the Lime not the other way round, stir continuously, check pH by putting a small knife or metal in,, its it comes out rusty, add more lime, if not its ready to use. Apply at 2:1
all of this stuff is open source, much of it is formed in a world outside the USA or English speaking nations, or of course we might say those places forced to be innovative based on poverty levels and so on.
good luck and happy growing
projectinfo
Well-Known Member
https://www.noblegrape.ca/products/gypsum
All i can find is this powder or pellitized garden gypsum
..
The pellitized is wayyy cheaper . Could i just use that or could i put it in a blender for a while?
All i can find is this powder or pellitized garden gypsum
..
The pellitized is wayyy cheaper . Could i just use that or could i put it in a blender for a while?
hyroot
Well-Known Member
looks like it's pelletized. Not sure. gypsum pellets are pretty small. I'd turn them into powder / dust to break them down faster. I've used gypsum pellets years ago. They take longer to break down. That was long before I started doing full no till or even knew what no till was. I was recycling soil and using compost back then but I was removing the roots lol.
Gypsum is not completely necessary. The first few years I was running no till i was using just bentonite and basalt rock dusts. Don't use bentonite, that shit clumps up when it gets wet like diatomaceous earth does
Bioaccumulator
Well-Known Member
Hyrootu have done an excellent job sharing knowledge base here in this thread. May I ask your thoughts and opinion on this video and Ashley's methods.
hyroot
Well-Known Member
He's making an imo (indigenous micro organisms) Same idea as making bokashi. But using microbes in native soil to ferment and innoculate the rice. I don't do it because I'm in the desert and there's sand everywhere. No woods or anything here. I don't have anywhere to bury a box of rice.
Native soil is a great place to find compost and compost starters
Bioaccumulator
Well-Known Member
Wanted to ask before I went out to my flood plain maples,oaks,ash,birch, black cherry woodlands to find a suitable donor.
MustangStudFarm
Well-Known Member
This is going to be the next thing that I research! You really sparked an interest when you addressed my problem because I have asked quite a few people about a source of micro nutrients and I really get much else than "use Mn and Zn sulfate, but make sure it's chelated". I didn't try it yet, but I heard that I can chelate it with fish hydrolysate(amino acids). Also, I am using a very generous amount of kelp, basalt, and glacial rock dust but my micros would always come back low. I am hoping that the rock dust just needs more time to break down and it will get better with age, but I have had my worst harvests when Mn and Zn were low. I would almost call it crop failure!
Anyways, I'm probably going to have to read your thread completely. I think that I'll have time this weekend to do it... I do have one question though, how would prunes and dates work for a FFJ. From what I read, you want high potassium and sugar. The dates that I have taste like caramel and I know they are high in K.
MustangStudFarm
Well-Known Member
Grass/weed allergies are killing me right now, I've been joking with my wife about moving to the desert!
MustangStudFarm
Well-Known Member
I'm fairly new to foliar spraying also, but I kept reading that it is almost mandatory for high brix levels. So, I got some SEA90 because I realize how big of a problem I am having with micronutrients. Steve Solomon had a great take on soil remineralization and he has written books about it and he said that even with a balanced soil, the plant will not be able to take up all of the nutrients that it needs. Sorry for rambling, you just helped me get some of my motivation back!!! I've been dealing with low micros for about 2yrs and I still don't have a good grasp on it yet. It's been having me down.
hyroot
Well-Known Member
Link to free book in pdf format on knf recipes written by one Cho's students. I don't follow all knf recipes. I do jadam and kyusei recipea too. But for imo i would do the knf version.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://ilcasia.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/chos-global-natural-farming-sarra.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjs0Or85JXeAhUtJjQIHRGBBIMQFjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw00MAaJG85N56D6e9Gm_D3e
hyroot
Well-Known Member
Summers are way too hot to even be outside. I can't even grow anything other than aloe and citrus. Although my blueberry plant (fruit) survived the 110-120 temps. . The rest of the year. We have best weather. All the snowbirds all over the world come here during the winter. Coachella and stage coach weeks suck . That's just because of all the tourists. Lol.
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hyroot
Well-Known Member
Once you get into using ferments it will be game changer.
MustangStudFarm
Well-Known Member
I have a nice 10gal bucket w/ an air tight lid, just need a spigot now... I've never had a reason to bokashi, so I never got into it.
When I was in Iraq/Kuwait, I daydreamed about living in a forrest. However, last year I started having breathing problems and I finally got an allergy test. It was off the charts for grass/weeds, so a lawn can be over-rated sometimes. I do have composting material, but it comes with a price lol...
hyroot
Well-Known Member
Get an air lock for the bucket. Get a painters mask. Regardless of allergies. You do not want to breath in grokashi dust. It will make your chest hurt for a couple days. It makes you feel like a gnarly flu is coming on. It goes away after 3 days of breathing it in. It happened to me twice. You can't smoke or vape either.
I'm sure the middle east desert was a lot hotter than here. A lot of old people retire out here because of the dry heat and being able to breathe better. Average humidity here is 15% . So 85 - 90 degrees here feels like 75 at the beach. Its windy here a lot too. 5 - 15 mph winds on average. With the occasional 30- 50Mph winds and sand storms. Thats just when the santa ana winds come through.
MustangStudFarm
Well-Known Member
I got one with carbon filters. I was actually using it today because I am screening a couple of bags of peat... I can probably get started on the FFJ right away. I will have to read about bokashi and what kind of grains to get, I have 80lbs of barley, but I'm sure that it is not right for bokashi. I'll probabaly look into buying a bokashi bucket, there not that expensive.
Baghdad got past 110F but it was a dry heat, like a blow dryer. I was stationed at Ft. Hood, Tx and there was not a big difference really. Tx was humid, so it actually felt hotter @ 103F than Iraq at 112F. I also spent about 7 weeks at Ft. Irwin, Ca during the hottest part July-Aug. That was probably the worst, but that was because we were training. I was in the infantry, so we were road marching in chemical gear and gas masks. My trip to Cali was not a pleasant one.
hyroot
Well-Known Member
Check out horse feed shops for red flake wheat grains. I pay $11 for 25 lbs of red wheat. 1 pound of bokashi lasts me one entire grow.
I don't do the ffj. I do the lacto based ffe (kyusei recipe) . The recipe is earlier in this thread. I I get better results with the lacto vased5 flower power ffe than an ffj. . To each their own.
But i do make fpj's for veg though.
I lived in Shreveport Lousiana for a couple summers when I was 12 and 13. So i know all about high humidity.
I don't do the ffj. I do the lacto based ffe (kyusei recipe) . The recipe is earlier in this thread. I I get better results with the lacto vased5 flower power ffe than an ffj. . To each their own.
But i do make fpj's for veg though.
I lived in Shreveport Lousiana for a couple summers when I was 12 and 13. So i know all about high humidity.
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